cathy and roger Posted December 12, 2009 Report Posted December 12, 2009 My husband and I just emptied, cleaned and refilled out tub which is a Hotsprings Vanguard. We noticed that the bubbles coming out of the recirculation pump appear to be larger than before. previously the bubbles were most of a mist coming out of the recirc pump where now they are an actual bubble, small, but nevertheless bubbles, about double the size as before. We have run the jets in all configurations thinking there might be air in the lines but the jets are running fine, it's just the recirculation pump. Any ideas? Quote
Stuart A Posted December 12, 2009 Report Posted December 12, 2009 That happens to our spa as well. I think there was a thread on this sometime ago and I think you will find it is nothing to worry about. Quote
quantumchromodynamics Posted December 12, 2009 Report Posted December 12, 2009 It's probably the ozonator, if you have one. Quote
Stuart A Posted December 13, 2009 Report Posted December 13, 2009 Yes it is the ozonator and for some reason they appear to produce slightly bigger bubbles just after a water change. Quote
r5ran Posted December 14, 2009 Report Posted December 14, 2009 My husband and I just emptied, cleaned and refilled out tub which is a Hotsprings Vanguard. We noticed that the bubbles coming out of the recirculation pump appear to be larger than before. previously the bubbles were most of a mist coming out of the recirc pump where now they are an actual bubble, small, but nevertheless bubbles, about double the size as before. We have run the jets in all configurations thinking there might be air in the lines but the jets are running fine, it's just the recirculation pump. Any ideas? Hi, I had this same issue last summer, (and started a thread about it) when I refilled my tub after leaving it drained for 3 weeks while I was on vacation. I really got no solid answers on it from the thread, so it's nice to hear others have had the same issue. I did replace the ozonator (under warranty), and initially it did stop the larger bubbles, but surprisingly, it promptly started the next day or two. It definitely is just extra air beiing sucked by the ozonator and nothing to be concerned about. (assuming that when you put your finger over the air input of the ozonator, the bubbles totally stop after about 30 seconds, otherwise you may have a leaking check valve or fitting, but not likely). I just stuffed a small bit of a rag in the input hose to act as a restictor, which works perfectly. Tiny bubbles all the time now. Randy Quote
Peteyboy Posted December 14, 2009 Report Posted December 14, 2009 The dirtier the water the smaller the bubbles can be. New water is very clean and will produce larger bubbles. Also if the ozone check valve is broken it will create MUCH more and larger bubbles. Quote
spatech (the unreal one) Posted December 14, 2009 Report Posted December 14, 2009 I just stuffed a small bit of a rag in the input hose to act as a restictor, which works perfectly. Tiny bubbles all the time now. Randy Using a regulator at the air input to the ozonator does the trick so you can meter the amount of air going to the ozonator (and therefore to the spa) but I guess a rag works as well lol. If it works ... Quote
r5ran Posted December 15, 2009 Report Posted December 15, 2009 I just stuffed a small bit of a rag in the input hose to act as a restictor, which works perfectly. Tiny bubbles all the time now. Randy Using a regulator at the air input to the ozonator does the trick so you can meter the amount of air going to the ozonator (and therefore to the spa) but I guess a rag works as well lol. If it works ... Hey, my rag in the ozonator input....it's not high tech,but it works! I just added small bits of a cloth using a tiny screwdriver till the bubbles reduced to the size I preferred. It was amazing how much I had to plug that tiny hole before it actually cut down on the bubbles! That thing really sucks the air in! Thanks, Randy Quote
carlee33 Posted February 9, 2010 Report Posted February 9, 2010 on 99.9999999% of the heaters in the world you will always get 120V from each leg of the heater to ground. For this reason you NEVER check voltage to gound when dealing with a spa heater, in order to properly check voltage on the heater you need to check between the two terminals of the heater. that is where you will either get 220V or 0, when you see that you get zero you can then move back to check your heating contactors and you pressure switch, see if the contactors are closed and check your pressure switch for continuity while the pump is running (disconnect the wires on the pressure switch). if there is no continuity then you need to replace the pressure switch, if there is continuity then you will more than likely have to replace the heating contactors. --------------------------------------------- cwna certification - mcdst certification - mcse exam Quote
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