SommerSDR Posted December 23, 2022 Report Share Posted December 23, 2022 Hello, we were recently "gifted" an old Morgan Hot tub, and we were told that it was working. However, we're having some issues with it and we're trying to figure out how to fix it up! It hasn't been easy because we've never owned a hot tub before, plus this one is quite old and hard to find resources online. This is an S Class system. The spa turns on..and all the jets and lights work. The filter is brand new. However, we get a #32 flashing on the display along with flashing lights above it..We are not able to set the heat as it will go back to 32 after we enter a different number. Then, after lots of research, we finally discovered how to slowly turn the top of the pressure valve with a screwdriver until the heater clicked. At that point, all the flashing lights on the display stopped completely..but the #32 is still on the screen..and if you type in a temperature..it will stay on it for a second..then go back to the #32. The heater is not heating up at all..we waited a good while and confirmed this by touching the heater. There is definitely water flow through it, as the jets work nicely and we can feel and see the water flow through the heater. We also can't properly read the digital display buttons, because some of the writing is worn off, nor can we find any instructions or guidance online about how to use this particular panel. So we don't know if it has any type of settings, like Standard, Economy...etc... or how/if we can clear orl reset the display. Plus we have no way of knowing what the 32 means. Any information on the panel or this issue would be greatly appreciated! We actually ordered a new temperature sensor. We're not sure if this will help, but it seems to be the likely problem if the blinking light errors were resolved after adjustment to the pressure gage..so the circuit board seems to detect the pressure gauge..so we think that leaves the sensor...we did unplug and replug in everything into the circuit board as well as clean the leads..but that hasn't helped. Other than that, the spa works great! The motor runs well, and all of the jets come on. If we could just get it to heat..and figure out the #32 and display..we should be good! Any information at this point would be so very helpful, because finding any information online has been almost impossible! I'm including pictures of our box and our control panel. Please let me know if you see any immediate concerns! (please ignore the one picture where the brown copper leads aren't connected to the pressure gauge...that was resolved.. along with the adjustment of the gage to get the heat to click on. We heard a click..the flashing lights went away (But not the #32) but it still didn't heat at all. **Also..if anyone requests that we access the jumpers, can you point out their location? On the diagram it looks like they are below or underneath the white paper that says enclosed. If that opens..how so? Do we have to remove the paper? Or, are the jumpers accessible in a different place.. it'd be great if you could circle any areas you're referring to in your answers if needed. Thank you so much in advance! 🙏💙 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted December 23, 2022 Report Share Posted December 23, 2022 Temp Sensor is my guess. Programming topside here: https://www.hottubdiy.co.uk/user/Manuals/Gecko SSPA TSC-19 (4 Button) and TSC-35 ( 6 Button) User Guide.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SommerSDR Posted December 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2022 2 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said: Temp Sensor is my guess. Programming topside here: https://www.hottubdiy.co.uk/user/Manuals/Gecko SSPA TSC-19 (4 Button) and TSC-35 ( 6 Button) User Guide.pdf Thanks for this suggestion! Having the display panel instructions would be helpful..but ours only has 4 buttons..and the one you've sent has 8. Aside from the up and down buttons, most of the writing is worn off so we can't tell which buttons are which and which lights are labeled which. If you happen to know where I can find the exact display panel instructions and diagram that would be super helpful! However, thank you very much for this information! Hopefully the temperature sensor will solve the problem...then if we can just figure out the labels and operation of the display panel.. we'll be in business! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted December 23, 2022 Report Share Posted December 23, 2022 Press and hold light button to set filter cycle durations... F2 is what you want it set at. Don't think there is much more to it on that system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SommerSDR Posted January 5, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2023 On 12/23/2022 at 11:09 AM, CanadianSpaTech said: Press and hold light button to set filter cycle durations... F2 is what you want it set at. Don't think there is much more to it on that system. Ok...so..we first determined that the temperature probe wasn't even connected..the wires were completely cut..and went nowhere..So we replaced it...Before when we turned it on..we still had an error so we figured out that the pressure switch wasn't open enough...once we used a screwdriver to adjust it..it began heating and all the errors went away...So after the probe was hooked up..all is well and we discovered that 32 was actually the temperature of the water. However, it took 3 whole days to heat to 95 degrees in about 40 degree weather. We decided since it's old, to go ahead and replace the heating element and the pressure switch...Which we did today. After the new installs it is still heating very slow (2 degrees an hour maybe) If it's not the pressure switch, or the element...what else could it be? Could it be the heater casing/tube? If so, why? When we changed the element, we noticed the 2 grounding wires connected to the bottom grounding bar on the heater are corroded in place.. therefore, we could not completely unattach the whole tube...so we just replaced the element while it was still attached to that wire...Would this have something to do with it not heating up as quickly? (The top grounding wire was fine.. there's 2 wires connected to the grounding bar..one is free floating..the other goes behind it..and I'm assuming connects to the box in some way..but the holes are completely corroded so we can't remove the wire to see where it goes.) Hopefully you can see the grounding bar and the 2 wires this in this picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted January 5, 2023 Report Share Posted January 5, 2023 The bottom right of the circuit board is where the hi limit sensor attaches to the circuit board and it slides between the blue plastic and the top of the heater tube and it's missing. Yellow tag in pic below. The hi limit is a safety device that detects the temp of the heater tube so if there is no water flow and the heater stays engaged for some reason you don't continue to heat to the point of fire. I would not recommend using the spa without it functioning as designed. On some of the later Gecko S-class packs it can be removed and replaced most of the older packs it is fixed to the board and you have to replace the entire circuit board. Hard to tell from your photos but I would say you are looking at having to replace the board. Recommend a Balboa or newer Gecko system as the cost of replacing the older boards is WAY more expensive. The one pictured below is close to $1000. A complete retro fit system with topside is likely half that. Now since you have it wired for 120V operation the heater is running at 1KW. A 240V connection the heater will run at either 4KW or 5.5KW depending on the element installed. A 7' x 7' 240V spa with a 5.5KW heater element might take 8 hours to heat. A 7x7 120V spa running at 1 KW can take up to 36+ hours to heat depending on the starting temp of the water. 1 hour ago, SommerSDR said: we noticed the 2 grounding wires connected to the bottom grounding bar on the heater are corroded in place If you are talking about the bar along the front of the heater tube bottom left those are bonding lugs and not ground wires. The ground wire (green) for the heater tube is between the heater element and the pressure switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SommerSDR Posted January 5, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2023 3 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said: The bottom right of the circuit board is where the hi limit sensor attaches to the circuit board and it slides between the blue plastic and the top of the heater tube and it's missing. Yellow tag in pic below. The hi limit is a safety device that detects the temp of the heater tube so if there is no water flow and the heater stays engaged for some reason you don't continue to heat to the point of fire. I would not recommend using the spa without it functioning as designed. On some of the later Gecko S-class packs it can be removed and replaced most of the older packs it is fixed to the board and you have to replace the entire circuit board. Hard to tell from your photos but I would say you are looking at having to replace the board. Recommend a Balboa or newer Gecko system as the cost of replacing the older boards is WAY more expensive. The one pictured below is close to $1000. A complete retro fit system with topside is likely half that. Now since you have it wired for 120V operation the heater is running at 1KW. A 240V connection the heater will run at either 4KW or 5.5KW depending on the element installed. A 7' x 7' 240V spa with a 5.5KW heater element might take 8 hours to heat. A 7x7 120V spa running at 1 KW can take up to 36+ hours to heat depending on the starting temp of the water. If you are talking about the bar along the front of the heater tube bottom left those are bonding lugs and not ground wires. The ground wire (green) for the heater tube is between the heater element and the pressure switch Yes, sorry, I was talking about the bonding log... there's 2 wires on it..a free floating wire and (upon further inspection tonight) the other one is connected to the top of the pump. I understand the hi limit sensor component you're speaking about... I'm aware of how it's supposed to function..as I've watched a few videos regarding it...however, when we put the new element in..it was touching the side of the heater so there was a red light that came on on the board where that yellow tag is (CR12) I believe was the label where the light was on the board. We adjusted the element so that it was off the side and then restarted it and then that light went off. I was thinking that it was the high limit sensor that turned red..am I mistaken? If not, what could it be? I will certainly look into getting another one..or finding out if it's replaceable...we were trying to avoid replacing the entire box..but if we have to, we will..as we need it to operate safely. As I said...the wires/wire holes and screws on the bonding log are corroded..so we had a hard time replacing the element without disconnecting those. What purpose do those wires serve if they are not for grounding? Can I replace them? I did look at replacing the heater tube..but some of the ones I've seen don't even have or have a place to put a bonding log on. So..we started it up at about 7:00pm..and the water temperature was 68 degrees.. it's midnight now and the temperature is 74... it's in the 50's Fahrenheit here in Texas...is that a normal expectation for this unit? Thank you for being so very patient and answering my questions...When we got the Spa we knew nothing about it..but we're trying to learn..I do very much appreciate you taking time to help me understand better how it works! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted January 5, 2023 Report Share Posted January 5, 2023 5 hours ago, SommerSDR said: What purpose do those wires serve if they are not for grounding? What is the purpose of bonding to ground? Bonding and grounding work together to provide an important element of spa safety. Electrical components, such as pumps, and non-current-carrying metallic components are electrically interconnected (bonded) and grounded to the earth so that electrical potential cannot exist between them. Spray the lug screws with WD 40 and use a different spot on the bonding lug if you can. Just cut away the copper wire and locate to a different lug if possible. 5 hours ago, SommerSDR said: So..we started it up at about 7:00pm..and the water temperature was 68 degrees.. it's midnight now and the temperature is 74... it's in the 50's Fahrenheit here in Texas...is that a normal expectation for this unit? Sounds like it is heating...just slowly. Use a multi meter to confirm 120V at the heater element. When installing a heater element it is critical to ensure the element is situated inside the tube so that it is not touching the side wall of the tube. I normally look down the tube to make sure. If it touches the tube it will hot spot and burn out the element in short order. 5 hours ago, SommerSDR said: I was thinking that it was the high limit sensor that turned red Likely.. the red led is hi limit related. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.