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Jacuzzi SOLID FLO error - Not blinking


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Hi everyone . I have a Jacuzzi J385. It had a BLINKING FLO error and the heater was not working so I replace the flo switch. This did not fix it so I replaced the circulation pump. This worked and the heater started working again. After heating the tub to 100 degrees I am now getting a SOLID FLO Error. The jets and light do not work but the circulation pump is still running. When I cut the power and turned the tub back on the error goes away and everything works for about 2 minutes and then the SOLID FLO error come back on and nothing works but the circulation pump. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

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Check the flow switch with an ohm meter.  Do you have continuity across the two wires when the paddle closes?

Are you sure the circ pump is moving water?  Do you see bubbles in the tub? 

As long as the circ pump is running and you see water moving in the tub, jumper the flow switch pins at the circuit board connector.  If the heater comes on, than the flow switch is bad.

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Hi Scuba Dave, Thank you for your reply. I changed the flow switch circulation pump and the heater is working. The circulation pump is moving water and closes the flow switch paddle and bubble are coming out of the tub. When I disconnect and reconnect the power it resets the SOLID FLO error ( Not a blinking FLO error ) and the tub fully works with all pumps and lights. When the jets are off and the tub is resting the SOLID FLO error comes back on and the tub stops working again. The circulation pump will stay on though. I will check the flow switch with an OHM heater but seeing that the hot tub is heating up it seems to be working.

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A solid FLO error in a Jacuzzi usually means the FLO switch is shorted out.   It usually disables both the heater and the circulation pump.  So your symptoms don't match what the manual says the problem is.  That being said:

You originally had a blinking FLO error and replaced the switch which didn't cure the problem.  Then you put in a new circ pump which took care of the blinking FLO.  In other words, the flo switch might not have been bad.

The Flow switch plugs into the circuit board via that wide connector at the top edge, right?  When you replaced the switch, did you splice the wires or pull the wires out of the connector and push the new ones in?  As you probably noticed, the wires are very fragile and if you don't get them just perfect, when you plug the connector onto the circuit board, the wires can push out of the back of the connector.  Make sure that connector's nice and snug.  Also, make sure you plugged the correct wires into the correct position on the connector.

Since your first repair was replacing the flo switch, and you then found out the flo switch was not the problem, I would consider putting that first flo switch back into the tub.  You may have replaced a working old switch with a defective new one.

 

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Hi. I installed the old flow switch back into the tub and everything worked fine for a while. The problem is not with the flow switch. Here is what I found since we last  talked.  When I reset the tub everything works while the heater is trying to reach the set temperature. Once the temp is reached I hear a click and the heater relay turns off heater. Then 30 seconds after the heater turns off I hear another click and the Ozone turns off. Then 30 seconds later the Solid FLO error returns. My question is why does everything work fine while the heater is on and the FLO error returns when its off. Is it a possible bad relay switch for the heater? If so can it be replaced? Thanks again for insight you may have. 

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So basically you're back where you started.

Sold FLO means the circuit board thinks the Flo switch is shorted closed.  You should not be able to get heat in that case.  The fact that you are makes me think you have a logic problem related to the circuit board.  You said the heater is turning off when you reach temperature, so I don't think a stuck heater relay is the issue.

Although I don't think this is the problem, let's check your transformer, it's a much cheaper replacement than a circuit board.  So, check the output wires for the transformer, which should be the yellow ones.  You can put your meter probes into the back of the circuit board connector, measuring yellow to yellow.  You should get 12-14 VAC.

I'd double check the the Flow switch is properly installed, arrows on the screw in top matching the arrow on the clear body, wire connections nice and tight.  If it's possible that the wires in the circuit board harness at the top have been pulled on, I'd give them a tap to make sure they're in tight.  Beyond that, you've got the proper voltage, the flo switch works, the circ pump works, the only thing left to be wrong is the circuit board.

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hello,

The solid FLO error on the Jacuzzi and Sundance LCD panels occurs only when the spa is in "Summer Logic" mode and there is still continuity across the flow switch.  This error code is not found in the owner's manuals.  If the spa temperature is above 95 degrees Fahrenheit and the water temperature is 2 degrees Fahrenheit above the set temperature the circulation pump will shut off until the water cools to the set temperature.  If continuity is detected during the summer logic mode you will get a solid FLO code.  The reason this usually occurs is a stuck-on circulation pump relay on the board.  This is a repairable failure.

brandon@spokanespas.com

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