breaz25 Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 I recently did a water change on the spa. The spa had been turned off at the main panel. Once restoring power the 20amp breaker in the subpanel will trip within 5 secs. It doesn't trip at the main panel. I mad a video of the IQ2020 board lights but not sure how to post it to the forum. The heater 30amp breaker doesn't seem to have a problem. I think this is a 2004 or 2005 model. Here is what happens on the logic board: 1. The breaker is turned on 2a. LIM OK lights turns GREEN D13 2b. Control Unplugged turns RED D12 2c. Appliance controls D17 turns RED 3. Then a clicking noise and the D13 and D12 lights go off but the D13 LIM OK light stays GREEN. The Heater 30AMP breaker is off. Any ideas of the problem? suggestions? The unit has been running with no problems since it was purchased around 2004. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony357 Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Those are diagnostic codes, try looking them up in the manual if you have it, if not google them.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breaz25 Posted June 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 I don't have a service manual and the codes are not in the owner's manual. I didn't come up with anything yet on Google either. Anyone know where to obtain a service manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 There are no diagnostic codes for a ground fault on that spa. If the breaker is tripping, either something is leaking electricity, there's a damaged electrical run, or you have a bad breaker. 1st guess would be a bad circ pump, or one of the other "20 amp" components. Disconnect components one at a time, and re-set the breaker, until you find the bad one (circ pump, Ozone generator, jet pumps) To be clear, all the lights on the spa go out when the 20 AMP breaker trips? Then a clicking noise and the D13 and D12 lights go off but the D13 LIM OK light stays GREEN. If the breaker is tripping, the light shouldn't stay green Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breaz25 Posted June 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 Yes, all the lights go out when the 20amp trips. So I disconnected the circulation pump and tried it again. Seems that is my problem. The jets are running fine with the circ. pump disconnected and the breaker doesn't trip. The ready light and power light on the display panel blinks on and off continuous with the circ. pump disconnected. Is that normal or indicate something else? Thank you for the troubleshooting steps. I guess I will be replacing the circ. pump. Any recommendations for buying one? Thank You again PreservedSwine . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted June 28, 2012 Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 Yes, all the lights go out when the 20amp trips. So I disconnected the circulation pump and tried it again. Seems that is my problem. The jets are running fine with the circ. pump disconnected and the breaker doesn't trip. The ready light and power light on the display panel blinks on and off continuous with the circ. pump disconnected. Is that normal or indicate something else? Thank you for the troubleshooting steps. I guess I will be replacing the circ. pump. Any recommendations for buying one? Thank You again PreservedSwine . The flashing ready and power light are to be expected with the circ pump disconnected- it's showing you there is not enough water flow through the heater. As soon as you replace the circ pump, adequate flow will resume, and you'll be good to go. Just grab the cheapest Laing E-5 circ pump you can find, 120v. Usually backyardplusDOTcom Enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas Posted June 28, 2012 Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 The E5 is the newest pump, and Watkins recommends it as replacement for all the older units. Be aware that it is slightly different in size than your old pump. Don't panic, it moves the same amount of water for less energy - I believe they do that by running a higher RPM, and a small amount of magic. You may have to modify the plumbing - again, don't panic. It's all done in vinyl tubing and very easy to adjust. In some models, I just unscrew the heater from the floor, shift it's location enough to get that 1 inch of slack I need, install the pump and screw the heater down in it's new home. In other models I use the little piece of tubing they include with the new pump - you can glue it to the old tubing with PVC cement and a regular 3/4" coupler to extend one of the tubes as needed - each model is just a bit different. In some, you can actually cut an inch or so off the one of the tubes (at the end farthest away from the heater) to make it all work. There is no reason the heater or circ pump have to sit in the exact same place they were in when the tub left the factory, and you really don't have to screw them back to the floor of the compartment unless you are detail-challenged, or think you might be moving the spa in the future... HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breaz25 Posted June 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 Thanks for the info. I'll be ordering a pump in the near future and see if I can get the hot tub back up and running. Thanks for all the information. I will post my results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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