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Dichlor Turns Spa Yellow/green


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I'm running a bromine system in my HotSpring Jetsetter tub. Only a few weeks ago I replaced all of the water, balanced pH and alkalinity, built up a good bromine reserve, shocked with non-chlorine (MPS)shock, and figured I'd be good for a few months. Our spa, by the way, is at a rental property and used by guests. We ask them to put in 1T of MPS after each time they use the spa.

One other note is that while the spa has a built in ozonator, it is not working, so we're keeping the bromine level at about 4ppm.

A couple of weeks ago I noticed that the bromine level was a bit low, so I put in some bromine booster, which contains both bromine and dichlor. When the powder hit the water, the water turned urine yellow, but fairly quickly turned clear again, so I didn't think much of it.

Yesterday when I went to service the spa, I noticed a slight green tinge to the water, and the bromine level was low even after adding MPS. So, I added some more bromine booster, and the green got even brighter. For whatever reason, I was convinced the green came from algae (we live by a lake, and people have a nasty habit of going straight from lake to spa), so I figured it was time to give a really good shock - so I added a dose of dichlor. Even after running the spa for an hour, it was still a kind of sick looking green. We finally had to leave, and told our incoming guest that I'd be up today to change the water.

Well, upon arriving today, the water was clear - maybe slightly cloudy. There was no bad smell. The water tested ideal for bromine level, pH, and alkalinity. So, I decided to leave well enough alone. I instructed the guests once again to use MPS after every time they used the spa.

Can anyone tell me what's going on here? Why did my water turn yellow/green? And how can I prevent this in the future.

-Jeff

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With a full set of test results taken at the time of the problem it's pretty hard to say exactly what was going on. I have two possibilities but without knowing your water balance I prefer not to say since I would be guesses.

FWIW, Ideal, in range, and perfect are not valid test results. The only test result you gave was bromine at 4 ppm, which is where is should be, ozone or not. Ozone does not lessen the level of sanitizer you need to maintain (ppm) but it can lessen the AMOUNT of sanitizer you need to maintain that level. Many people, including many Dealers, do not understand this. Ozone had no residual and you still need to maintain the proper level of residual sanitizer in the water.

I do have a few questions:

What is the color of the spa shell if it is not a white one?

When the water changed color did it stay clear or was it cloudy?

BTW, Your one step bromine product is mostly Dichlor and does not really have enough sodium bromide to create a bromide bank in the water. These products are designed for daily dosing to create bromine sanitizer. Using them occasionally with MPS in between is not going to keep the water sanitized.

Are you also using bromine tabs in the spa?

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I do have a few questions:

What is the color of the spa shell if it is not a white one?

When the water changed color did it stay clear or was it cloudy?

BTW, Your one step bromine product is mostly Dichlor and does not really have enough sodium bromide to create a bromide bank in the water. These products are designed for daily dosing to create bromine sanitizer. Using them occasionally with MPS in between is not going to keep the water sanitized.

Are you also using bromine tabs in the spa?

The spa shell is white/pearl.

The water stayed clear - maybe slightly cloudy.

I had already established a bromine bank using sodium bromide when filling the tub. I also have a floater with tablets.

-Jeff

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