Caldera Knife Valves

[springschauers]

I have a Caldera, Tahoe Series 2000, and I had to replace one of the nuts on my heater that had broken with a split nut and had shut the knife valves on the right side to stop the water from rushing out and couldn't get it to completly stop flowing so I closed the other two valves on the left side, which also didn't help so I resorted to puting a mayonaise jar under the leaking heater and continues to remove it alternating jar for a glass every minute or two until it was removed, fixed and then replaced again including screwing in electrical panel. I was feeling really good until I tryed to open the knife valves and they wouldn't open. Do I need to releive pressure from the inlet union before they'll open or did I really blow it by not lubricating them before closing them? To make matters worse I broke the handle on the far right valve off (whaaaah). I haven't put any chemicals in yet because I just finished filling it and found the leak in the heater when I first turned it on to make sure everything was still working. I forgot to mention the fact that I had recieved a flow message on control panel and replaced the pressure switch before the heater started leaking. I had glued the nut last year that I just replaced and I thought it was pretty darn good to have held up this long. That's all of it! Can you help me? I'm a 57 yr. old woman just trying to do it right(guess I already messed things up.. huh).

Thank you for your time in reading this rather long request, and I'll be patiently waiting for a reply so I can get started again.

Sincerely frustrated,

Deanna

Ps

I'm hoping to beable to pull the broken valve stem down for now. I know I'm probably dreaming.

[foureyedbuzzard]

I have a Caldera, Tahoe Series 2000, and I had to replace one of the nuts on my heater that had broken with a split nut and had shut the knife valves on the right side to stop the water from rushing out and couldn't get it to completly stop flowing so I closed the other two valves on the left side, which also didn't help so I resorted to puting a mayonaise jar under the leaking heater and continues to remove it alternating jar for a glass every minute or two until it was removed, fixed and then replaced again including screwing in electrical panel. I was feeling really good until I tryed to open the knife valves and they wouldn't open. Do I need to releive pressure from the inlet union before they'll open or did I really blow it by not lubricating them before closing them? To make matters worse I broke the handle on the far right valve off (whaaaah). I haven't put any chemicals in yet because I just finished filling it and found the leak in the heater when I first turned it on to make sure everything was still working. I forgot to mention the fact that I had recieved a flow message on control panel and replaced the pressure switch before the heater started leaking. I had glued the nut last year that I just replaced and I thought it was pretty darn good to have held up this long. That's all of it! Can you help me? I'm a 57 yr. old woman just trying to do it right(guess I already messed things up.. huh).

Thank you for your time in reading this rather long request, and I'll be patiently waiting for a reply so I can get started again.

Sincerely frustrated,

Deanna

Ps

I'm hoping to beable to pull the broken valve stem down for now. I know I'm probably dreaming.

Remember that many of those valves twist a quarter turn to lock them in the closed position. Examine the valve VERY CLOSELY. The T handle should be parallel to the flow thru the valve in order to open it (turn it counterclockwise). Are you sure it isn't in the locked position? If all that broke is the plastic handle you can still turn it and open and close it with a pair of pliers - not a big issue considering how often you need to use it.