First Test Results

[TellyDSP]

Let me preface this with the fact that the pool was inherited while blue, and still is. However, it's always been a bit cloudy. I am preparing the bring in another sample for testing tomorrow, but wanted to see what you all thought of my initial results.

I feel like my CYA is quite high. Doesn't this tie up the little amount of chlorine int he pool? Counter-productive? I'm also addressing the CH issue, as suggested by the pool store. If my CC truly is 0, I'd imagine this is good. Because if the cloudiness I had planned a well calculated shock of the pool. I'd want to bring my FC up to about 15? Also, how "off" are walk-in test results from pool shops. Honestly, tight on funds, I dont have the cash for a nice home kit, and like the "free" aspect of the store's results. Can they be trusted?

TC - 5.0

FC - 5.0

CC - 0.0

Ph - 7.5

TA - 80

CH - 175

CYA - 100

TDS - 500

TIA

Craig

[polyvue]

Let me preface this with the fact that the pool was inherited while blue, and still is. However, it's always been a bit cloudy. I am preparing the bring in another sample for testing tomorrow, but wanted to see what you all thought of my initial results.

I feel like my CYA is quite high. Doesn't this tie up the little amount of chlorine int he pool? Counter-productive?

The CYA is a bit too high. Perhaps not enough to drain (though I would drain some first before adding more chemicals) but enough to require at least 7-8 ppm FC for adequate oxidation of bather wastes (perspiration, urine etc.) in a non-SWG pool. The recommended level of CYA for a SWG pool is up to 80 ppm, though many pools are happy with 50 ppm. I target a minimum chlorine level of 5% of CYA in my pool. So, if your CYA is 50 (half of the current estimate) you can aim for FC 2.5+ ppm (SWG) or FC 4 ppm (non-SWG). It's not counter-productive; the CYA holds in reserve a certain proportion of chlorine and it's released as needed. But if you have too much CYA and not enough chlorine (a weak ratio) too much is held in reserve and sanitation/oxidation performance is diminished.

I'm also addressing the CH issue, as suggested by the pool store. If my CC truly is 0, I'd imagine this is good. Because if the cloudiness I had planned a well calculated shock of the pool. I'd want to bring my FC up to about 15? Also, how "off" are walk-in test results from pool shops. Honestly, tight on funds, I dont have the cash for a nice home kit, and like the "free" aspect of the store's results. Can they be trusted?

Trust them? Yes, about as far as you can throw the sample... (heh heh). There are pool stores that seem to take special pride and great care in water testing and would never lure a customer into purchase of unneeded products. (I'm sure there are at least a dozen such stores in the country! If yours is one, please support them.) But most tales of pool store testing aren't happy ones. Whether though poor training, misconceptions or carelessness, the numbers generated by store employees seem to come out all over the place. There's just no substitute for testing yourself using a good drop test kit ($50-100 -- I like the Taylor K-2006 FAS/DPD kit). That applies doubly if you anticipate shocking your pool. To do it right, you will need to test Free Chlorine (FC) and Combined Chlorine (CC) at least every day or several times a day. Other posters may want to comment on your cloudy water.

If your pool is plaster, you will likely want to increase CH. If vinyl, let the CH come down a bit, over time.

TC - 5.0

FC - 5.0

CC - 0.0

Ph - 7.5

TA - 80

CH - 175

CYA - 100

TDS - 500

TIA

Craig

[Jeff F]

My local pool shop has never pushed any product my way at all. If anything, just the opposite.

Having said that, some of the tests they have done have been quite off. e.g. they reported CYA 50ppm when it was actually somewhere north of 200ppm.

Your own good test kit is your best friend. $50-60 bucks. It will save you money. (I'm about 2 weeks owner of a Taylor K-2006 kit, and a rapid convert!)

What kind of pool, what kind of filter do you have?