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Cal Spas Heater Problem


Wil

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I have an older cal spas heater. Recently, I went to heat it up and the heater led came on fine. I came back after a couple hours and the light had gone out and the spa was not warm.

After removing the front panel, I observed that, when you turn the thermostat up, the contactor clicks down (stays down unless you turn the thermostat back down and then clicks up) but the heater LED doesn't come one. When the contactor makes contact the LED for pool heat does flicker briefly but goes immediately off. I noticed on a couple of occasions there was a flash of light that seemed come either from the contactor or behind the contactor...it is so quick it is hard to tell. This would indicate a short, I would think but I don't see anything frayed or worn, plus nothing is getting tripped.

For what it is worth, I have been told that the heater LED has nothing to do with the heating element and only measures whether or not power is going to the element. I figure the thermostat/switch must be good, otherwise the contactor wouldn't click down. My thought is that, if the contactor is bad, then the current would not flow across it to the heating element. Hence, no LED and no heat to the element. However, it seems to make sense to me that the clicking down of the contactor could be enough to send a short jolt through (hence the flicker of the heater LED). My thought is to replace the contactor.

Any other thoughts? Thank you in advance for any help!

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I have an older cal spas heater. Recently, I went to heat it up and the heater led came on fine. I came back after a couple hours and the light had gone out and the spa was not warm.

After removing the front panel, I observed that, when you turn the thermostat up, the contactor clicks down (stays down unless you turn the thermostat back down and then clicks up) but the heater LED doesn't come one. When the contactor makes contact the LED for pool heat does flicker briefly but goes immediately off. I noticed on a couple of occasions there was a flash of light that seemed come either from the contactor or behind the contactor...it is so quick it is hard to tell. This would indicate a short, I would think but I don't see anything frayed or worn, plus nothing is getting tripped.

For what it is worth, I have been told that the heater LED has nothing to do with the heating element and only measures whether or not power is going to the element. I figure the thermostat/switch must be good, otherwise the contactor wouldn't click down. My thought is that, if the contactor is bad, then the current would not flow across it to the heating element. Hence, no LED and no heat to the element. However, it seems to make sense to me that the clicking down of the contactor could be enough to send a short jolt through (hence the flicker of the heater LED). My thought is to replace the contactor.

Any other thoughts? Thank you in advance for any help!

it sounds like a contactor to me. the tips on the plates might have worn out from being opened over time under load. when the spa is down heating the t stat tells the contactor to open which open and arc from being under load. If you have a meter to measure ohms you can test it. when replacing it make sure you get the correct coil voltage and amp rating. hopefully the label is still on. most are 120 volt coil rated at 30 amps

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Thank you for the response - I didn't understand this part of your reply, can you please clarifty because it seemed important and that it might explain the arcing I have been seeing! :D

when the spa is down heating the t stat tells the contactor to open which open and arc from being under load.
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  • 2 months later...

I would agree with Spa Guru: it sounds like you have a bad contactor.

If the Heat light is on it means the thermostat, flow switch and high limit are all working. The heat light indicates power is going to the coil of the contactor and, on most older Cal Spa boxes that the contactor is engaging.

If the contacts are pitted or very dirty the contactor may be closing mechanically but may not be making electrical contact. No electrical contact = no Heat Light = No heat.

Before you replace the contactor I would like to verify what you are seeing. Both the heater contactor and the low speed pump contactor will engage when you turn the thermostat up and down in Freeze Protect mode.

The heater contactor is a double-pole, single throw contactor and will most likely have two yellow wires running directly to the heat element.

If you are seeing this contactor close but still have no heat or heat light you need to replace the heater contactor. You can often find them at HVAC suppliers.

The low speed pump contactor is a sigle pole, single throw contactor and will be connected to a smaller black wire that connects to one of the plugs on the bottom of the box.

If you are only seeing the low speed pump contactor engage and not the heat contactor you have a problem somewhere else in the tub (flow switch or high limit).

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