lkneisler Posted October 24, 2009 Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 Could it just be the heat is still bad, or just caked with stuff? Should I read 230V any where for the heater? Thanks for the help, what next. I guess I could pick up a new coil and try that. John Right, when you use a voltage meter on the two heater leads you should get 230 volts. Again, if you ARE getting proper power to the heater and the spa is NOT heating then replace your element. I never use an amp meter cos I'm too cheap to buy one - the average inexpensive voltage meter I come across only reads up to 10 amps but I supposed you could check the amps too if you want to be 100% thorough. I don't know what the amps are supposed to be.) If you are NOT getting proper power to the heater element then something else is wrong and you have to nail that down first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtm311 Posted October 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 Could it just be the heat is still bad, or just caked with stuff? Should I read 230V any where for the heater? Thanks for the help, what next. I guess I could pick up a new coil and try that. John Right, when you use a voltage meter on the two heater leads you should get 230 volts. Again, if you ARE getting proper power to the heater and the spa is NOT heating then replace your element. I never use an amp meter cos I'm too cheap to buy one - the average inexpensive voltage meter I come across only reads up to 10 amps but I supposed you could check the amps too if you want to be 100% thorough. I don't know what the amps are supposed to be.) If you are NOT getting proper power to the heater element then something else is wrong and you have to nail that down first. Could you give me a little more details on how you are testing for the 230V? Are you just testing the black on a common ground and the hot ( red) lead to one of the heater leads? or are you just testing across both heater leads for 230v Thanks again for all the help. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkneisler Posted October 25, 2009 Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 Could you give me a little more details on how you are testing for the 230V? Are you just testing the black on a common ground and the hot ( red) lead to one of the heater leads? or are you just testing across both heater leads for 230v Thanks again for all the help. John Sure! Lets say you have two heater leads/wires. One is red and the other is black. Metering both heater leads should give you 220-240volts; touch the end of one meter probe to one hot [red] and the other meter probe to the other hot [black] and you'll get 220 to 240 volts. For a universal type heater element, I always meter where the wires connect to the heater element. Metering ground and one lead should give you 110-120volts. Put one meter probe on ground and the other probe on red, you should get 110-120v. Put one meter probe on ground and the other probe on black, you should get 110-120v. Let me know what you find and we can go from there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtm311 Posted October 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 Could you give me a little more details on how you are testing for the 230V? Are you just testing the black on a common ground and the hot ( red) lead to one of the heater leads? or are you just testing across both heater leads for 230v Thanks again for all the help. John Sure! Lets say you have two heater leads/wires. One is red and the other is black. Metering both heater leads should give you 220-240volts; touch the end of one meter probe to one hot [red] and the other meter probe to the other hot [black] and you'll get 220 to 240 volts. For a universal type heater element, I always meter where the wires connect to the heater element. Metering ground and one lead should give you 110-120volts. Put one meter probe on ground and the other probe on red, you should get 110-120v. Put one meter probe on ground and the other probe on black, you should get 110-120v. Let me know what you find and we can go from there Great I will give it a try tomorrow. I thought that is correct. I will let you know. Thanks, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtm311 Posted October 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 Ok no power at the heater. I found the following the heater relay is pulled in however the Hi-limit relay top and bottom are not pulled in. If I manual pull both in I get the 240v at the heater. So is my next step one of the sensors? Thanks, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkneisler Posted October 25, 2009 Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 Ok no power at the heater. I found the following the heater relay is pulled in however the Hi-limit relay top and bottom are not pulled in. If I manual pull both in I get the 240v at the heater. So is my next step one of the sensors? Thanks, John I'm not good with the relay thing. Maybe someone else might be able to help here. Is there a red button sticking out anywhere (that would be your hi-limit sensor)? If the hi-limit trips (pops out) then it has to be pushed back in to reset it, otherwise no heat. If it hasn't tripped; popped out, then I have no clue why a hi-limit related relay would not engage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtm311 Posted October 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 Ok no power at the heater. I found the following the heater relay is pulled in however the Hi-limit relay top and bottom are not pulled in. If I manual pull both in I get the 240v at the heater. So is my next step one of the sensors? Thanks, John I'm not good with the relay thing. Maybe someone else might be able to help here. Is there a red button sticking out anywhere (that would be your hi-limit sensor)? If the hi-limit trips (pops out) then it has to be pushed back in to reset it, otherwise no heat. If it hasn't tripped; popped out, then I have no clue why a hi-limit related relay would not engage. I looked for that I don't think I have that type of Hi-limit. I think it is in the heater housing. Anyone? Maybe for the $200 I replace the heater with the pressure and Hi-limit. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkneisler Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 I looked for that I don't think I have that type of Hi-limit. I think it is in the heater housing. Anyone? Maybe for the $200 I replace the heater with the pressure and Hi-limit. John What does the heater look like? You mentioned "heater housing". Is there a part online where you can post a URL, or can you post a photo? $200 seems high, especially if it's just a sensor. The hi-limit might also be a little disc looking thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtm311 Posted October 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 I looked for that I don't think I have that type of Hi-limit. I think it is in the heater housing. Anyone? Maybe for the $200 I replace the heater with the pressure and Hi-limit. John What does the heater look like? You mentioned "heater housing". Is there a part online where you can post a URL, or can you post a photo? $200 seems high, especially if it's just a sensor. The hi-limit might also be a little disc looking thing. Here is my replacment heater I should have said it also includes a pressure switch and high limit switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recoil Rob Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 Testing heaters is fairly simple. First you check to make sure you have 240V between the two contacts on the element when the spas is supposed to be heating. If you do, you put an amp probe on one of the wires to the heater and check to make sure it's drawing amps, if it is drawing the proper amperage the heater is working. If you have the 240V but 0 amp draw the heater is shot. If you do not have the 240V at the heater, the problem lies elsewhere, the heater is not getting the voltage so it can draw the amps to make heat. On those Jacuzzi spas which used a Balboa system there is a temp sensor, a hi limit sensor and a pressure switch. When one of them goes you will usually get an error code on the display. If you are not getting 240V it would be a waste of money to buy an entire heater just for new sensors and pressure switch. The 25A fuse the board protects the wiring to the motors, nothing else. Tubs will usually heat up to about 90-92˚ when the heater is not working, the heat generated by the motor will do that by itself. When a 5.5Kw heater is working properly you can expect 4-6˚/hr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkneisler Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 Here is my replacment heater I should have said it also includes a pressure switch and high limit switch. If you buy online, go here http://actionsparepair.com/heater-assy3.html You don't have to buy the whole assembly though. You can replace each part by itself and save a few bucks; universal flo-thru heater element $25 - $40, pressure switch $30-35, hi-limit... you'll have to look that one, I gotta run! I assumed your spa was not digital, so you couldn't see any errors on a top side panel. Is that correct? Testing a pressure switch: When the motor is running and you have water flow, use your meter to see if the pressure switch has continuity; is closed; the numbers go to zero or you get a beep. The hi-limit... if you can't see an error code that's a tough one. They hardly ever go bad. But you could always replace it and see if that gets your heater going again before you go an buy anything else. Keep us posted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtm311 Posted October 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 Ok here is an update. I was able to test the pressure switch it works. Also, I jumped out the other two relays so I could get the 240v to the heater. I ran it that way for 1/2 it went up 5 deg. (not sure if that is good 5.5k) From what I have read there is no way to test the hi-limit switch,true? I do not think it is a temp switch because I'm getting the digital read out on the top panel. So I can only think that it must be the Hi-limit switch, would anyone add to this? No erro codes on the top panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtm311 Posted October 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 My local spa shop had the correct Hi=limit sensor so I replaced it. Guess what, nothing changed same problem! So I'm at a loss it may be time to call in a tec or order a new board. Can anyone confirm that the Hi- limit sensor when tested with a meter should be closed? The new tested out as "open" as does the old one. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkneisler Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 My local spa shop had the correct Hi=limit sensor so I replaced it. Guess what, nothing changed same problem! So I'm at a loss it may be time to call in a tec or order a new board. Can anyone confirm that the Hi- limit sensor when tested with a meter should be closed? The new tested out as "open" as does the old one. John Yeah, with the sensors you get resistance readings, not open or closed continuity sort of readings - and even then it doesn't work so great cos the wires/connectors are so tiny. Did you call someone out or order a new board? No one ever wants to tell you to get a new board. Probably cos their expensive and it's hard to suggest doing it. I cheaped out big time on a control board and switched two components around instead of replacing the board. But shoot - A new board costs $300 with tax and shipping! There are some DIY people who will suggest replacing a relay (or something) instead of the board. I don't know enough about those kind of details. I hope whatever you choose to do works out right for you! Lori Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtm311 Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 My local spa shop had the correct Hi=limit sensor so I replaced it. Guess what, nothing changed same problem! So I'm at a loss it may be time to call in a tec or order a new board. Can anyone confirm that the Hi- limit sensor when tested with a meter should be closed? The new tested out as "open" as does the old one. John Yeah, with the sensors you get resistance readings, not open or closed continuity sort of readings - and even then it doesn't work so great cos the wires/connectors are so tiny. Did you call someone out or order a new board? No one ever wants to tell you to get a new board. Probably cos their expensive and it's hard to suggest doing it. I cheaped out big time on a control board and switched two components around instead of replacing the board. But shoot - A new board costs $300 with tax and shipping! There are some DIY people who will suggest replacing a relay (or something) instead of the board. I don't know enough about those kind of details. I hope whatever you choose to do works out right for you! Lori Ok I tested the board till I was blue today. No 5v at the relays so I said the hell with it and called a service guy, he wanted $125 an hour. So I looked for a board replacement on-line best price was $350 and shipping. So I said the hell with it again I ordered a spa pack from United spas $379 and free shipping. Now I know it will all work when I get it. I will post a before and after shot on Tuesday when it gets to me. spa pack Thanks John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtm311 Posted November 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2009 Installed the new spa pack all worked out great she is up and running so with all new parts a deck and running the power I have a good spa for about a $1000 .. I will take a photo with the finished skirts tomorrow. Just waiting on the new cover Thanks for the help John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkneisler Posted November 4, 2009 Report Share Posted November 4, 2009 Installed the new spa pack all worked out great she is up and running so with all new parts a deck and running the power I have a good spa for about a $1000 .. I will take a photo with the finished skirts tomorrow. Just waiting on the new cover Thanks for the help John You are quite the trooper! Good job and I hope you get to enjoy your spa for a long, long time!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtm311 Posted November 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2009 Installed the new spa pack all worked out great she is up and running so with all new parts a deck and running the power I have a good spa for about a $1000 .. I will take a photo with the finished skirts tomorrow. Just waiting on the new cover Thanks for the help John You are quite the trooper! Good job and I hope you get to enjoy your spa for a long, long time!! Ok all new dials, pillows need a little more stain and all done John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linD43 Posted November 20, 2009 Report Share Posted November 20, 2009 Nice job on the skirting !! $1000 and some work not a bad deal at all, I'm guessing that it must have come with the cover as that would probably set you back another $500! That's actually what dissuaded me from taking my brother's 'free' hot tub that had been sitting unused for awhile. Though he claimed that it worked fine when he last used it, it hadn't been run for quite awhile and didn't have a cover. When I priced covers (no lift) I found it was going to cost me about $500 for a decent one. I figured it was quite likely I'd have to sink some additional money to get it up and running. I then happened to come across a Sundance Capri that was being used (indoors) and had both cover and lift for $1200. As the Capri was smaller (mostly I use it alone) and I figured the 'free' one would end up costing me at least that - I opted for that instead and have not regretted it. Now if only 'Fix-a-Leak' would take care of the leak it has developed. <sigh> Even with the big price I've been quoted for a repair I still figure I'm going to come out ahead. Hope you enjoy your tub as much as I enjoy mine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtm311 Posted November 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2009 Nice job on the skirting !! $1000 and some work not a bad deal at all, I'm guessing that it must have come with the cover as that would probably set you back another $500! That's actually what dissuaded me from taking my brother's 'free' hot tub that had been sitting unused for awhile. Though he claimed that it worked fine when he last used it, it hadn't been run for quite awhile and didn't have a cover. When I priced covers (no lift) I found it was going to cost me about $500 for a decent one. I figured it was quite likely I'd have to sink some additional money to get it up and running. I then happened to come across a Sundance Capri that was being used (indoors) and had both cover and lift for $1200. As the Capri was smaller (mostly I use it alone) and I figured the 'free' one would end up costing me at least that - I opted for that instead and have not regretted it. Now if only 'Fix-a-Leak' would take care of the leak it has developed. <sigh> Even with the big price I've been quoted for a repair I still figure I'm going to come out ahead. Hope you enjoy your tub as much as I enjoy mine! Most of the money went to the deck and eletric hook which I did on my own. I did buy a new cover which I got off ebay custom made to fit mine very happy with it and it only was $300 in the end it does take about 3 weeks for the whole process. We have been using the heck out of the spa and love it. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grandee1 Posted December 2, 2009 Report Share Posted December 2, 2009 Installed the new spa pack all worked out great she is up and running so with all new parts a deck and running the power I have a good spa for about a $1000 .. I will take a photo with the finished skirts tomorrow. Just waiting on the new cover Thanks for the help John You are quite the trooper! Good job and I hope you get to enjoy your spa for a long, long time!! Nice job. One question though, is that pressure treated lumber for the deck? Looks like untreated lumber in the pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtm311 Posted December 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2009 Installed the new spa pack all worked out great she is up and running so with all new parts a deck and running the power I have a good spa for about a $1000 .. I will take a photo with the finished skirts tomorrow. Just waiting on the new cover Thanks for the help John You are quite the trooper! Good job and I hope you get to enjoy your spa for a long, long time!! Nice job. One question though, is that pressure treated lumber for the deck? Looks like untreated lumber in the pictures. Yes it is Home Depot best John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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