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Maxetherm Heater Installed 7' Below Waterline


sandline9

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My pump room is 7' below my waterline in the pool and have installed a Maxetherm heater down in the vault. My problem is that the heater's pressure switch needs to be replaced with a flow switch instead. I cannot find any information on flow switches even after talking to tech support. I'm worried that someone can turn on the heater through the intellitouch controls without having the pump running.

Does anyone know where to find this flow switch? I can't believe that in the heater manual they tell me about the flow swith but can't give me any info about what kind or where to get it. No info at all besides mentioning a "flow switch".

PLEASE HELP!

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My pump room is 7' below my waterline in the pool and have installed a Maxetherm heater down in the vault. My problem is that the heater's pressure switch needs to be replaced with a flow switch instead. I cannot find any information on flow switches even after talking to tech support. I'm worried that someone can turn on the heater through the intellitouch controls without having the pump running.

Does anyone know where to find this flow switch? I can't believe that in the heater manual they tell me about the flow swith but can't give me any info about what kind or where to get it. No info at all besides mentioning a "flow switch".

PLEASE HELP!

Here is a link to spa flow switches

http://www.spaandpoolsource.com/q12ds-3-3-...34plumbing.aspx to give you an idea, they might work in a pool application if installed in a bypass pipe.

Sometimes you can adjust the pressure switches so the back pressure in the pipe won't close it to misfire the heater. Another way that might work is to install check valve after the heater outlet that closes when the pump is off. Hayward also has a flow switch from the salt machines that number is GLX FLO RP. They are not cheap.

I don't know to much about the itellitouch system but it might not let the heater fire without the pump

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I've never had good luck with that brand. I much prefer FloControl

plumb4.jpg

Basically all you do is plumb it somewhere in the piping system, then remove the wires from the existing pressure switch and run them to the flo switch. It's pretty easy and ANY pool or spa service tech should be able to do it (drunk, asleep, with their eyes closed and one arm tied behind their back :-)

The reason it's not talked about much in the manual is liability issues.

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1. Usually below water level equipment installations will have isolation valves to close the pipes for equipment servicing. If the return valve is closed and the pump is on and the heater fires the pressure switch will not turn it off. This is why you need a flow switch. You should also install a pressure relief valve in the heater port provided (<50 psi). The flow switch should not be installed in a bypass line. A tee is installed in the pipe (before the heater) with a side connection to match the flow switch threads (if using a Harwil type). (The heater mfrs all say never install a valve downstream of the heater. But if you are much below water level you really need to.)

2. The Hayward SWG flow switch is a Harwil Q-12DS but with a low flow activation set point (also see #3). It is better to get one with a set point near the minimum flow rating of the heater.

3. The flow switch in the link is a Harwil Q-12DS which can only handle a very low current. If you use it on the heater it will eventually fail unless you also use a relay to carry the heater load. Better to use their Q-8DS which can easily handle the heater current. It is larger and of course more expensive.

4. I don't have experience with the FloControl. It offers the convenience of one piece construction.

5. If they made this easy, it would ruin all the fun...

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