Site Prep

[Chas]

compared to all the other expenses of placing concrete adding steel is cheap.

Not to take sides here, rather to focus on the concrete -

I have always added steel one way or another. I can't say that one method has proven itself better than the other in my limited experience, but I have used rebar and welded wire mesh. The mesh I have used is usually 6" square stuff.

My question is this: when using rebar, is there a real reason to put a complete grid? Or is it sufficient to run around the perimeter?

If I put in a slab, it is usually just about 8' square or pretty close to it, and I put a couple inches of sand down first, form with 2x6, and drop in the ww mesh. From time to time, I have used rebar - I overlap the joints, bend the corners and make a loop about a foot in from the outside edge all the way 'round.

Which would you use and why?

[Glenn]

It is not that expensive to make a pad the exact size of the spa base. Then put the decorative rock up against it.

No other spa company on earth will let you put a spa on the ground unless you want to void the shell warranty.

I guess the Arctic warranty is better then? all that is required is firm level ground with the Forever Floor.

[Chas]

I guess the Arctic warranty is better then? all that is required is firm level ground with the Forever Floor.

It is unique.

[Dr. Spa]

Better? Or just different. As has already been pointed out, there's an exclusion in the warranty for a cracked shell that results if the spa was installed on insufficiently prepared or unleveled ground. IF, the spa cracks, what's to keep the company from denying the warranty claim and saying it was caused by "insufficiently prepared" ground. I think it very unlikely someone could prove that their ground was "sufficiently prepared". And it would be easier for the manufacturer to claim that the ground has to be "insufficiently prepared".

Additionally, if the spa were to settle and then crack, I'd bet at that point the ground beneath the spa is unlevel.

I'm not saying any of this will happen, in fact I tend to believe Arctic may be stronger than most/some, simply by the fact that they have this feature. I'm just trying to shine a little light on both sides

Warranty exclusions are there for a reason.

I guess the Arctic warranty is better then? all that is required is firm level ground with the Forever Floor.

[Dennis]

Not to take sides here, rather to focus on the concrete -

I have always added steel one way or another. I can't say that one method has proven itself better than the other in my limited experience, but I have used rebar and welded wire mesh. The mesh I have used is usually 6" square stuff.

My question is this: when using rebar, is there a real reason to put a complete grid? Or is it sufficient to run around the perimeter?

If I put in a slab, it is usually just about 8' square or pretty close to it, and I put a couple inches of sand down first, form with 2x6, and drop in the ww mesh. From time to time, I have used rebar - I overlap the joints, bend the corners and make a loop about a foot in from the outside edge all the way 'round.

Which would you use and why?

You want to use the same size reinforcement throughout the slab so that you have uniform strength. Using rebar in some areas and mesh in others would allow the slab to deflect at different rates. Cracks will probably develop at the point where the rebar stops and the mesh starts. I would use #3 bars (3/8") spaced a min. 12" on center; 8" would be best for a 4" slab. If you have to lap bars the rule of thumb is 40 times the bar diameter. In Texas the material cost would be about $50 for a 8'X8'X4" slab.

[Chas]

You want to use the same size reinforcement throughout the slab so that you have uniform strength. Using rebar in some areas and mesh in others would allow the slab to deflect at different rates. Cracks will probably develop at the point where the rebar stops and the mesh starts. I would use #3 bars (3/8") spaced a min. 12" on center; 8" would be best for a 4" slab. If you have to lap bars the rule of thumb is 40 times the bar diameter. In Texas the material cost would be about $50 for a 8'X8'X4" slab.

So a grid then. OK.

I have only used one or the other, rebar or mesh, usually mesh. I have had several jobs where we had some rebar available, or the customer specifically asked for it, and we did a grid. We did overlap, wire at all laps and crossing points, and stood them up on those little blocks with the wires in them. Even for a small slab it was a bit of work.

So you think just putting rebar (only) around the perimiter would not add to the strength, in fact might encourage cracks?

I don't do them very often, but I live in CA and I sure don't want to get more cracks than we already do.

Thanks for the input..

[Dennis]

So you think just putting rebar (only) around the perimiter would not add to the strength, in fact might encourage cracks?

The perimeter would not deflect as much as the center section, so Yes.

[Chas]

So you think just putting rebar (only) around the perimiter would not add to the strength, in fact might encourage cracks?

The perimeter would not deflect as much as the center section, so Yes.

Thanks. That makes perfect sense now that I have read your words.

As I say, I ususally cut a section of WW mesh and let it go at that.

[Jim & Claudia]

we just had a 10x10 4 in thick with 2 wire mesh overlapping in the center mainly, for 500.00. We live in So.Cal. We put it over our newly filled in pool. I hated it. finally it is gone. got our spa today. it is great . wish i COULD STAY IN L0NGER. Ours will surely fail before everyone elses because eventually the dirt will compact no matter how big of a CAT they drove over it. Am I worried, nope cause the pool is gone and the spa is here.

Jim

[Roger]

we just had a 10x10 4 in thick with 2 wire mesh overlapping in the center mainly, for 500.00. We live in So.Cal. We put it over our newly filled in pool. I hated it. finally it is gone. got our spa today. it is great . wish i COULD STAY IN L0NGER. Ours will surely fail before everyone elses because eventually the dirt will compact no matter how big of a CAT they drove over it. Am I worried, nope cause the pool is gone and the spa is here.

Jim

Maybe the slab, spa and everything will sink nice and evenly. Then all ya gota do is a little landscaping and you get the built in look.

[Jim & Claudia]

couple of steps down into it with some of those interlocking terracing stones all around with a few ferns growing out of the holes left in the walls made by leaving out a brick or two. That would be cool!