High Ph And Alkalinity In Above Ground Pool.

[argi65]

I just filled my pool with well water. I tested and found out the PH was above 8.2, the limit of my test kit and alkalinity was around 300. I have used acid to lower the PH to no avail and the alkalinity is still up there. I just purchased PH(-) which I'll use tomorrow. The chlorine disappears pretty fast. I will appreciate any help. Thank you.

[Reno Swimmer]

I just filled my pool with well water. I tested and found out the PH was above 8.2, the limit of my test kit and alkalinity was around 300. I have used acid to lower the PH to no avail and the alkalinity is still up there. I just purchased PH(-) which I'll use tomorrow. The chlorine disappears pretty fast. I will appreciate any help. Thank you.

Your situation is manageable if you go about it the right way. First you must adjust the Alkalinity bringing it into the range of 80 - 120 ppm. You adjust the Alkalinity by adding Muriatic Acid or Dry Acid to the CENTER of the POOL with the pump OFF. After you add the acid leave the pump off for several hours. You should be testing your pool with something like a Taylor Complete (FAS-DPD chlorine) K-2006 test kit. You will be testing the water in small cylinders, adding and counting drops and comparing the results to chemical adjustment charts based on the gallon volume of your pool.

After you have adjusted the Alkalinity, wait 1 day. Then you can adjust the pH. To lower the pH you will again be adding Muriatic acid based on test results and chart recommendations. You will add the acid around the EDGES of the pool with the pump OFF. Again leave the pump off for several hours after adding the acid.

If you follow the test recommendations correctly and adjust the Akalinity first, then adjust the pH a day later your pool chemistry values will come into the proper ranges, and the pool chemistry will become VERY STABLE. From that point on you will only neet to test and adjust Alkalinity, pH and Calcium about once a week. You may need to test more often for Chlorine. But your pool will no longer have an unending appetite for chlorine.

Don't use test strips to manage the chemistry of your pool, they have very limited value. Use the Taylor drop test system. It is VERY ACCURATE, easy to learn and use, and will make your life a lot easier. If I can learn to do this so can you. I've had my 13 X 25 foot pool for 3 years. This is the first year I used the Taylor drop test system, it is also the first year that my pool management has been a snap. I only need to test once a week and then make minor adjustments to my pool chemistry. Whenever possible I use liquid chemicals rather than dry chemicals to make the adjustments to my pool. In the prior 2 years I used test strips and powdered chemicals. I was constantly struggling with pool chemistry values being out of range, and it was a huge frustrating hassle. Manage your pool the right way and it is easy and it works. You'll have clear, clean, balanced water and a pristine pool. Also, read the Taylor book that comes with the test kit from cover to cover (about 50 pages of reading and 10 pages of tables). After that you'll understand everything you need toknow to effectively manage the chemistry of your pool, and also what you need to know to properly maintain your pool. If you don't do these things your pH is going to be hopping, your pool will gobble up vast quantities of chlorine, your Alkalinty, pH and Calcuim values will be constantly out of range and you won't be able to gain control of your pool chemistry or management. Choice is yours. GOOD LUCK!

PS - Here are the proper ranges you need to establish in the chemisty of your pool

Alkalinity 80 - 120 ppm

pH 7.2 - 7.6

Calcium 250 - 400 ppm

Chlorine 2.0 - 4.0

If you are using a Salt Generator to create chlorine for your pool then you also should establish these values for the chemisty of your pool

Cyanuric Acid 30 - 50 ppm

Salt 2800 - 3200 ppm

[chem geek]

I agree completely with the use of a FAS-DPD chlorine test kit, such as the outstanding Taylor K-2006 kit you can get at a good online price here or the TF100 kit from tftestkits.com here with the latter kit having 36% more volume of reagents so is comparably priced "per test".

However, I disagree with some of the other advice given. The acid column or slug methods or just add acid in the center of the pool method, etc. does not work to lower the TA efficiently. This was shown to be true in this study. The efficient way to lower the TA is through a combination of acid addition and aeration of the water at low pH. The procedure is described in this post as well as in this link. If you are going to be using a hypochlorite source of chlorine (i.e. bleach, chlorinating liquid, Cal-Hypo, lithium hypochlorite), then you should lower the TA to 80 ppm. If you are going to be using an acidic source of chlorine (i.e. Trichlor tablets/pucks), then you should target a TA of 120 ppm or higher.

Just so you know, it takes around 12 cups of full-strength Muriatic Acid (31.45% Hydrochloric Acid) in 10,000 gallons to lower the pH from 8.2 to 7.2 when the TA is at 300 ppm. To lower the TA from 300 to 80 ppm, it will take a cumulative total of around 70 cups of Muriatic Acid in 10,000 gallons, though obviously this is not added all at once -- you add acid to keep the pH low in the procedure described above. You can get approximate dosages for your pool by using The Pool Calculator.

As was noted by Reno Swimmer, adjust your TA lower first before worrying about the pH. With the above procedure, after you get to your TA target, you then stop adding acid and simply aerate the water to raise the pH to the desired level (usually around 7.5).

If you have a saltwater chlorine generator (SWG), then having the CYA level at 60-80 (preferably 70-80) ppm is better unless you have little sun on the pool. You should keep the FC level no lower than 5% of the CYA level, so at 80 ppm CYA that would be 4 ppm FC.

For a non-SWG pool, have a minimum FC that is 7.5% of the CYA level and the CYA level can be 30-50 ppm.

You can read more about maintaining a pool at The Pool School.

Richard

[argi65]

I just filled my pool with well water. I tested and found out the PH was above 8.2, the limit of my test kit and alkalinity was around 300. I have used acid to lower the PH to no avail and the alkalinity is still up there. I just purchased PH(-) which I'll use tomorrow. The chlorine disappears pretty fast. I will appreciate any help. Thank you.

[argi65]

I just filled my pool with well water. I tested and found out the PH was above 8.2, the limit of my test kit and alkalinity was around 300. I have used acid to lower the PH to no avail and the alkalinity is still up there. I just purchased PH(-) which I'll use tomorrow. The chlorine disappears pretty fast. I will appreciate any help. Thank you.

[dymondgeezer]

I second Chem Geek's remedy. Did the acid & aeration thing for several days to lower TA. It works

[Reno Swimmer]

I know that the methods described in my posting have worked effectively in managing my 10,000 gallon SWG pool, this year. I also know that I started this season with little experience and almost zero knowledge of pool chemistry, and pool chemistry management methods. I have posted a couple of questions in this forum in the last few months when I was having difficulties with the pool, and Chem Geek has responded with very good, accurate and helpful information. His recommendations made the difference in bringing my pool under control, allowing for easy long-term management of my pool chemistry for this entire season. So I yield to his greater knowledge and experience and recommend that you take his advice in managing your pool chemistry and your pool. Thanks Chem Geek. And Good Luck with your pool Argi65.

[chem geek]

Reno Swimmer,

Just so you know, I wasn't saying that adding acid to the center of the pool, etc. doesn't work, but rather that it's not as effective (fast) as the aeration and acid addition at lower pH. It's just a matter of efficiency. The process simply goes faster at lower pH and with more aeration.

Richard