Reno Swimmer

I have a much smaller pool than yours. Ours is 13 x 25.5. We use a SWG sold under the name Splash pools, but it was made by Goldline. We have used it very successfully for three years without problems. This year has been the best because I learned the basics of pool water chemistry and moved from test strips and the local vendors water chemistry computer (it was a joke) to a Taylor FAS-DPD drip test system. That made all the difference. I test the water once a week, and make the necessary small adjustments. The pool water has been pristine all season because of the new water testing and management approach. It's easy to do, requires little time and is very accurate. I added a Taylor Salt testing kit to my FAS-DPD test unit, and the two have kept my pool chemistry in perfect balance all season. I never have to add chlorine. I adjust the SWG to a chlorine creation level of between 35 - 40 %, up or down depending on my chlorine readings with the Taylor kits. It's worked perfectly. Take a good look at a SWG if you want to simplify the management of you pool water chemistry. Good Luck!

I know that the methods described in my posting have worked effectively in managing my 10,000 gallon SWG pool, this year. I also know that I started this season with little experience and almost zero knowledge of pool chemistry, and pool chemistry management methods. I have posted a couple of questions in this forum in the last few months when I was having difficulties with the pool, and Chem Geek has responded with very good, accurate and helpful information. His recommendations made the difference in bringing my pool under control, allowing for easy long-term management of my pool chemistry for this entire season. So I yield to his greater knowledge and experience and recommend that you take his advice in managing your pool chemistry and your pool. Thanks Chem Geek. And Good Luck with your pool Argi65.

Your situation is manageable if you go about it the right way. First you must adjust the Alkalinity bringing it into the range of 80 - 120 ppm. You adjust the Alkalinity by adding Muriatic Acid or Dry Acid to the CENTER of the POOL with the pump OFF. After you add the acid leave the pump off for several hours. You should be testing your pool with something like a Taylor Complete (FAS-DPD chlorine) K-2006 test kit. You will be testing the water in small cylinders, adding and counting drops and comparing the results to chemical adjustment charts based on the gallon volume of your pool. After you have adjusted the Alkalinity, wait 1 day. Then you can adjust the pH. To lower the pH you will again be adding Muriatic acid based on test results and chart recommendations. You will add the acid around the EDGES of the pool with the pump OFF. Again leave the pump off for several hours after adding the acid. If you follow the test recommendations correctly and adjust the Akalinity first, then adjust the pH a day later your pool chemistry values will come into the proper ranges, and the pool chemistry will become VERY STABLE. From that point on you will only neet to test and adjust Alkalinity, pH and Calcium about once a week. You may need to test more often for Chlorine. But your pool will no longer have an unending appetite for chlorine. Don't use test strips to manage the chemistry of your pool, they have very limited value. Use the Taylor drop test system. It is VERY ACCURATE, easy to learn and use, and will make your life a lot easier. If I can learn to do this so can you. I've had my 13 X 25 foot pool for 3 years. This is the first year I used the Taylor drop test system, it is also the first year that my pool management has been a snap. I only need to test once a week and then make minor adjustments to my pool chemistry. Whenever possible I use liquid chemicals rather than dry chemicals to make the adjustments to my pool. In the prior 2 years I used test strips and powdered chemicals. I was constantly struggling with pool chemistry values being out of range, and it was a huge frustrating hassle. Manage your pool the right way and it is easy and it works. You'll have clear, clean, balanced water and a pristine pool. Also, read the Taylor book that comes with the test kit from cover to cover (about 50 pages of reading and 10 pages of tables). After that you'll understand everything you need toknow to effectively manage the chemistry of your pool, and also what you need to know to properly maintain your pool. If you don't do these things your pH is going to be hopping, your pool will gobble up vast quantities of chlorine, your Alkalinty, pH and Calcuim values will be constantly out of range and you won't be able to gain control of your pool chemistry or management. Choice is yours. GOOD LUCK! PS - Here are the proper ranges you need to establish in the chemisty of your pool Alkalinity 80 - 120 ppm pH 7.2 - 7.6 Calcium 250 - 400 ppm Chlorine 2.0 - 4.0 If you are using a Salt Generator to create chlorine for your pool then you also should establish these values for the chemisty of your pool Cyanuric Acid 30 - 50 ppm Salt 2800 - 3200 ppm

Chem Geek, Thanks for the correction. I appreciate your input, you've helped me before with other pool issues. I worked through the URL and got to the website. The info was what I needed. Thanks. Reno Swimmer

Angela, Thanks for the URL. This looks like a great website and newsletter location. I found their information about winterizing my above ground pool very helpulf. Thanks again!

I have a 30 X 18 X 4.5 above ground Splash pool, with salt generator, pump, sand filter and heat pump. I've learned how to balance the water chemistry using Taylor testing materials and the water has been stable and crystal clear all season. The pool temperature stays in the high eighties most days, between 84-88 degrees. So the pool is very comfortable. I have an EZ Vac that I use to clean the pool and also acts as a bottom drain. The thing works great. I have a floating skimmer that cleans the surface of the pool. I can only use one of these devices at a time as they both run off the same inlet pipe. Now it's time to learn about winterizing the pool. I won't need to close and winterize the pool until probably late October or early November, depending on when the first snows arrive in Reno. So here are my questions: 1) What do I need to do with the water chemistry and the pool to properly winterize it? 2) What is the proper water level for a winterized pool? 3) How do I protect the salt generator, pump, filter and heat pump? Do I need to drain them, cover them or fill them with anit-freeze? The salt generator, filter, pump, heat pump, hoses and rigid piping are exposed to the weather. 4) The pool is 3 years old. Should I plan on adding to the sand to the filter for next season, replacing the sand or leaving it alone? 5) What about pool pillows and pool covers? 6) What are the best brands of winterizing kits, supplies and materials to purchase? 7) What else do I need to know to correctly and completely winterize the pool? Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help!

Thanks for your replies. I made a selection from the Confer Plastics products. It looks like I made a very good choice for a very good price. Thanks again for your help.

My wife recently had a hip replaced. Now we need a different and safe set of steps for our above ground pool. Our Splash pool is 50" at the top of the pool rail; the top of the pool deck is at 54". What would be the best type of pool step to get for our pool. We need a legitimate step type entry with sturdy handrail system and not a ladder. Where would be the best place to look for such an above ground pool step system? Who would be the best vendor to buy the step system from? I'd appreciate any help I can get with this. Thanks.

Thanks for your help. I've already got the pool up to the Guardex recommendations. Now, I'll begin to move the pool chemistry towards the Splash SWG recs. I'm trying to get the pool chem dialed in early in the season so it will be easier to manage.

I have 13 X 25.5 X 4 above ground vinyl pool (10,600 gallons) with a 200 lb sand filter and a SplashCLEAR Electonic Chlorine Generator (model SP-18). The salt chlorinator is basically an Aqua-TROL-HP unit made by Goldline Controls/Hayward Products. So here's my problem. The Splashclear pool chemistry recommendations differ from the pool chemistry recommendations of my pool dealer. The dealer uses a Simplicity Water Analysis system with Guardex pool chemicals. Here are the 2 sets of recommendations. *****************Splash Range***************Guardex Range Salt**************2700 - 3400****************2700 - 3400 Total Alkalinity*****80 - 120 ppm***************125 - 150 ppm pH***************7.2 - 7.6*******************7.2 - 7.6 Calcium Hardness**200 - 400 ppm**************175 - 225 ppm Free Chlorine******1 - 3 ppm******************1 - 3 ppm Cyanuric Acid******60 - 80 ppm****************30 - 200 ppm The differences in pool chemistry recommendations are for Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness and Cyanuric Acid . Which set of recommendations should I use? Which will give me the best results for pool chemistry management, maintaining water quality and protecting my pool and equipment? I'd appreciate information from someone who knows this stuff and has experience with it. I'm new at managing a pool. I do understand that I need to add a weekly chemical shock to the pool even though I have the Salt Chlorinator. Thanks for your help. Reno Swimmer