Replaced Plumbing,time To Fill The Channel With Concrete.

[lrodptl]

After replacing all the plumbing I need to fill the 3 channels where I had to cut out the concrete. The channels are approx 16"x10'. Everything I read says I need to dowel in the old concrete with rebar to the new concrete. If I ever had to access again that would be a major problem. Any other solutions or thoughts?

[jkusmier]

If the replacement plumbing materials and workmanship were good quality, you shouldn't have to worry about accessing those lines again for many years.

No matter how good the mix or work, concrete will crack. Thus the use of fiber mixes, and mesh and/or re-bar. The latter in particular help keep cracks from propagating. You could get by w/o pinning w/ rebar for years, or it could go bad next winter. Unpredictable. I'd add the re-bar dowels/pins and then a strip of mesh. Worst case, if you have to take it out in the future, a concrete saw will cut through those pins like butter (and the mesh won't be a factor except for breaking the strip up for removal).

[lrodptl]

If the replacement plumbing materials and workmanship were good quality, you shouldn't have to worry about accessing those lines again for many years.

No matter how good the mix or work, concrete will crack. Thus the use of fiber mixes, and mesh and/or re-bar. The latter in particular help keep cracks from propagating. You could get by w/o pinning w/ rebar for years, or it could go bad next winter. Unpredictable. I'd add the re-bar dowels/pins and then a strip of mesh. Worst case, if you have to take it out in the future, a concrete saw will cut through those pins like butter (and the mesh won't be a factor except for breaking the strip up for removal).

Thanks,I didn't realize the rebar would be cut so easily by the concrete blade. When I first had a pool service estimate the job they said they pour the concrete so it is separated from the main body. How would they do that,use some removal divider? Cut it before it cures?

[jkusmier]

If the replacement plumbing materials and workmanship were good quality, you shouldn't have to worry about accessing those lines again for many years.

No matter how good the mix or work, concrete will crack. Thus the use of fiber mixes, and mesh and/or re-bar. The latter in particular help keep cracks from propagating. You could get by w/o pinning w/ rebar for years, or it could go bad next winter. Unpredictable. I'd add the re-bar dowels/pins and then a strip of mesh. Worst case, if you have to take it out in the future, a concrete saw will cut through those pins like butter (and the mesh won't be a factor except for breaking the strip up for removal).

Thanks, I didn't realize the rebar would be cut so easily by the concrete blade. When I first had a pool service estimate the job they said they pour the concrete so it is separated from the main body. How would they do that,use some removal divider? Cut it before it cures?

A concrete saw will cut through re-bar w/ ease - you'll see sparks for a few seconds, then the blade is through.

They're almost certainly talking about an expansion joint. The cheapest joint is just a saw-cut; better contractors will hand trowel the joints instead of coming back later w/ a saw.

Finally, sometimes it's a control joint - physical divider placed along one finished edge before the next section (in your case, the channels) are poured. This is a thin strip of material, maybe 1/4-1/2" thick, and maybe 4-6" tall; usually made of a bituminous-treated fiber. Lets one section expand under heat without cracking due to resistance from adjacent sections. In your case, it would ease removal, so I'd recommend these strips. You'll have to cut/place the strips along each side of the channel and pin them firmly along the edges of the so they don't move (can remove the pins once the channels are poured/before finishing).

Then use a masonry bit to drill holes at, oh, I'd say 18" intervals along the edges of both slabs. Be sure to drill the holes level and through the center of the slabs. You'll have to drill the holes deep enough in one side so that you can slide the re-bar pin into that side of the channel, then slide it back a bit toward the other side so it's placed in the holes on each side.

A 16" wide channel MAY not be wide enough to position a drill w/ a masonry bit into the channel - remember, the holes must be level (and square/aligned on each side). Look for a short masonry bit, or you may have to widen the channel w/ a concrete saw.

If you do this, you'll easily be able to remove the concrete in these channels should the need ever arise in the future.

[lrodptl]

If the replacement plumbing materials and workmanship were good quality, you shouldn't have to worry about accessing those lines again for many years.

No matter how good the mix or work, concrete will crack. Thus the use of fiber mixes, and mesh and/or re-bar. The latter in particular help keep cracks from propagating. You could get by w/o pinning w/ rebar for years, or it could go bad next winter. Unpredictable. I'd add the re-bar dowels/pins and then a strip of mesh. Worst case, if you have to take it out in the future, a concrete saw will cut through those pins like butter (and the mesh won't be a factor except for breaking the strip up for removal).

Thanks, I didn't realize the rebar would be cut so easily by the concrete blade. When I first had a pool service estimate the job they said they pour the concrete so it is separated from the main body. How would they do that,use some removal divider? Cut it before it cures?

A concrete saw will cut through re-bar w/ ease - you'll see sparks for a few seconds, then the blade is through.

They're almost certainly talking about an expansion joint. The cheapest joint is just a saw-cut; better contractors will hand trowel the joints instead of coming back later w/ a saw.

Finally, sometimes it's a control joint - physical divider placed along one finished edge before the next section (in your case, the channels) are poured. This is a thin strip of material, maybe 1/4-1/2" thick, and maybe 4-6" tall; usually made of a bituminous-treated fiber. Lets one section expand under heat without cracking due to resistance from adjacent sections. In your case, it would ease removal, so I'd recommend these strips. You'll have to cut/place the strips along each side of the channel and pin them firmly along the edges of the so they don't move (can remove the pins once the channels are poured/before finishing).

Then use a masonry bit to drill holes at, oh, I'd say 18" intervals along the edges of both slabs. Be sure to drill the holes level and through the center of the slabs. You'll have to drill the holes deep enough in one side so that you can slide the re-bar pin into that side of the channel, then slide it back a bit toward the other side so it's placed in the holes on each side.

A 16" wide channel MAY not be wide enough to position a drill w/ a masonry bit into the channel - remember, the holes must be level (and square/aligned on each side). Look for a short masonry bit, or you may have to widen the channel w/ a concrete saw.

If you do this, you'll easily be able to remove the concrete in these channels should the need ever arise in the future.

Thanks,is the divider available at Home Depot etc? Thanks again.

[jkusmier]

Not sure - they're as common as dirt but save your time and gas and let your fingers do the walking. I get them from a local contractor supply store. Control joints, expansion joint filler strips, etc.

[lrodptl]

Not sure - they're as common as dirt but save your time and gas and let your fingers do the walking. I get them from a local contractor supply store. Control joints, expansion joint filler strips, etc.

I've been delayed due to a nagging neck problem but I got the hammer drill and this certainly is way too big for parallel and square rebar holes. My electric drill won't accommodate a half inch bit. Any suggestions? Also,after the rebar is in place do these holes get filled prior to the pour? Thanks.

[jkusmier]

Can be done w/o an impact drill - will take longer, of course. I'd suggest borrowing an electric or cordless drill w/ a chuck that can accommodate 1/2 bits from a friend. If it's cordless, make sure to borrow the recharger, too - you'll need it since you have to drill in 3 channels.

I don't think it's necessary to fill the excess length in the holes on one side. Once the channels are poured water shouldn't be able to enter them. At any rate, if you fill then you won't be able to fit the rebar into the channel, then slide back into the opposite hole.