Just Got My Taylor K2006 Test Kit

[sjt2900]

We've had our spa for 3 weeks and on the advice of this forum I ordered the Taylor K-2006. I've been reading the book and already have a question. The book says to wait one complete filtration cycle after chemical treatment to test water. How do I know what a complete filtration cycle is? I'm hoping to start the chemical analysis tonight if it's not raining and I know I'll have more questions after that, but wanted to ask about the filtration cycle first. I'll be back with the results when I get them.

[Hillbilly Hot Tub]

We've had our spa for 3 weeks and on the advice of this forum I ordered the Taylor K-2006. I've been reading the book and already have a question. The book says to wait one complete filtration cycle after chemical treatment to test water. How do I know what a complete filtration cycle is? I'm hoping to start the chemical analysis tonight if it's not raining and I know I'll have more questions after that, but wanted to ask about the filtration cycle first. I'll be back with the results when I get them.

If your tub has a 24 hour circ pump (filters all the time) then wait 3-4 hours. If you have set filter cycles, they should be set for 3-4 hour blocks at a time.

[sjt2900]

Ok, the spa holds 468 gallons of water. When we first filled it we added 8 oz. of metal control as recommended along with the other recommended chemicals. Using the sticks the ph was way off the charts, so the dealer told us to add muratic acid until it came within a recognized level. We ended up adding about 16 oz. of muratic acid.

Now these are the results of the first Taylor k-2006 test. (if I did it right)

Free chlorine: 4.2

Combined chlorine: 0.4

PH: 7.9--2 drops of the acid demand reagent brought it to 7.5

Total Alkalinity: 180

Calcium Hardness: 450

Cyanuric Acid: 48

Saturation Index: 1.1

According to the "Water balance calculator" I should be worried about scale?

When I used the Aquachek stick the levels showed:

PH: 7.8

Free Chlorine: 3

TA: 180

Stabilizer: 100

From what I can tell from the sticks it seems ok to use the spa, but I really would like input from the experts.

Also the DVD that came with the chemicals says that after it's used, add 1 TBS of OxySchock or 1 Tea of SaniChlor per 500 gallons. Are there any recommendations as to which we should use?

[sjt2900]

Ok, the spa holds 468 gallons of water. When we first filled it we added 8 oz. of metal control as recommended along with the other recommended chemicals. Using the sticks the ph was way off the charts, so the dealer told us to add muratic acid until it came within a recognized level. We ended up adding about 16 oz. of muratic acid.

Now these are the results of the first Taylor k-2006 test. (if I did it right)

Free chlorine: 4.2

Combined chlorine: 0.4

PH: 7.9--2 drops of the acid demand reagent brought it to 7.5

Total Alkalinity: 180

Calcium Hardness: 450

Cyanuric Acid: 48

Saturation Index: 1.1

According to the "Water balance calculator" I should be worried about scale?

When I used the Aquachek stick the levels showed:

PH: 7.8

Free Chlorine: 3

TA: 180

Stabilizer: 100

From what I can tell from the sticks it seems ok to use the spa, but I really would like input from the experts.

Also the DVD that came with the chemicals says that after it's used, add 1 TBS of OxySchock or 1 Tea of SaniChlor per 500 gallons. Are there any recommendations as to which we should use?

Forgot to add the spa is being used by two people, just about every night.

[Hillbilly Hot Tub]

You are still slightly on the high side of PH and ALK. This is why you are in danger of scaling. Ideal is 7.6 on PH and 80-120 on Alk. I would add a little more PH decreaser since your CH is on the high side also. 250-450 is ideal for CH. You seem to have very hard water.

All your other levels are good and safe. Your should be all set to go with a little PH down.

The test strips are ok for your quick checks, but use the test kit to get true readings, specially with the CYA. CYA is not used for spas, but the stabilizer is in the dichlor. People with spas sometimes have issues with itch if CYA gets to high. Also as the CYA gets higher, it will take more chlorine to sanitize the water. (High CYA makes chlorine less effective)

As far as MPS or chlorine, are you using a mineral stick or something else for a sanitizer? MPS is not a sanitizer, it is an oxidizer(chews up wastes, does not kell germs persay) It is a very good oxidizer, but it has to be used with another form of sanitizer. Dichlor is a sanitizer, so it can be used without anything else. So, what you do after a soak depends on if you are using a mineral stick or something else. Even with a mineral stick, you have to keep a slight residual of chlorine in the tub....but we will get into that if you tell us you are using one.

Keep an eye on the PH, don't let it creep up. You may need to use a stain and scale inhibitor and happy soaking!

[sjt2900]

You are still slightly on the high side of PH and ALK. This is why you are in danger of scaling. Ideal is 7.6 on PH and 80-120 on Alk. I would add a little more PH decreaser since your CH is on the high side also. 250-450 is ideal for CH. You seem to have very hard water.

All your other levels are good and safe. Your should be all set to go with a little PH down.

The test strips are ok for your quick checks, but use the test kit to get true readings, specially with the CYA. CYA is not used for spas, but the stabilizer is in the dichlor. People with spas sometimes have issues with itch if CYA gets to high. Also as the CYA gets higher, it will take more chlorine to sanitize the water. (High CYA makes chlorine less effective)

As far as MPS or chlorine, are you using a mineral stick or something else for a sanitizer? MPS is not a sanitizer, it is an oxidizer(chews up wastes, does not kell germs persay) It is a very good oxidizer, but it has to be used with another form of sanitizer. Dichlor is a sanitizer, so it can be used without anything else. So, what you do after a soak depends on if you are using a mineral stick or something else. Even with a mineral stick, you have to keep a slight residual of chlorine in the tub....but we will get into that if you tell us you are using one.

Keep an eye on the PH, don't let it creep up. You may need to use a stain and scale inhibitor and happy soaking!

Yep! We have good ole Illinois River Water and it's hard as a rock. We are using OxyShock or SaniChlor both in crystal form for after soak. Is this right? Also any ideas of how much PH down to use? I really appreciate the help you're giving!

[sjt2900]

You are still slightly on the high side of PH and ALK. This is why you are in danger of scaling. Ideal is 7.6 on PH and 80-120 on Alk. I would add a little more PH decreaser since your CH is on the high side also. 250-450 is ideal for CH. You seem to have very hard water.

All your other levels are good and safe. Your should be all set to go with a little PH down.

The test strips are ok for your quick checks, but use the test kit to get true readings, specially with the CYA. CYA is not used for spas, but the stabilizer is in the dichlor. People with spas sometimes have issues with itch if CYA gets to high. Also as the CYA gets higher, it will take more chlorine to sanitize the water. (High CYA makes chlorine less effective)

As far as MPS or chlorine, are you using a mineral stick or something else for a sanitizer? MPS is not a sanitizer, it is an oxidizer(chews up wastes, does not kell germs persay) It is a very good oxidizer, but it has to be used with another form of sanitizer. Dichlor is a sanitizer, so it can be used without anything else. So, what you do after a soak depends on if you are using a mineral stick or something else. Even with a mineral stick, you have to keep a slight residual of chlorine in the tub....but we will get into that if you tell us you are using one.

Keep an eye on the PH, don't let it creep up. You may need to use a stain and scale inhibitor and happy soaking!

Yep! We have good ole Illinois River Water and it's hard as a rock. We are using OxyShock or SaniChlor both in crystal form for after soak. Is this right? Also any ideas of how much PH down to use? I really appreciate the help you're giving! And I don't know what a mineral stick is, so pretty sure we're not using one.

[Hillbilly Hot Tub]

1 ounce od PH down should work for your tub size.

Dichlor after each use, you will have to adjust how much depending on what your body chemistry is. Oxy shock once per week, maybe twice if you use the tub a lot.

If your total chlorine is higher than your free chorine, subtract the free chlorine from the total chlorine. If higher than .5 you should shock.

www.aquacheck.com has a really good calculator that will help you with figuring out how much chemical to add to your tub.

[sjt2900]

1 ounce od PH down should work for your tub size.

Dichlor after each use, you will have to adjust how much depending on what your body chemistry is. Oxy shock once per week, maybe twice if you use the tub a lot.

If your total chlorine is higher than your free chorine, subtract the free chlorine from the total chlorine. If higher than .5 you should shock.

www.aquacheck.com has a really good calculator that will help you with figuring out how much chemical to add to your tub.

Hilllbilly, I checked out the aquacheck site and couldn't find a calculator. Maybe I'm not looking in the right place? I also have a couple more questons. When I get the PH, AK and such to where it should be, how often should I be checking it? If we use it daily, should I check it daily with the stick and once a week with the test kit? I've about people talking about their chemistry days, so is this a once a week thing? Also I forgot to tell you we have an ozonater, not sure if it changes any of your information. And the spa does have a 24 hour pump. It's the Sundance Chelsee. Also, is this stick something I should have? I've also read about a frog that is said to be the same thing as the stick. Do I need this? Sorry for so many questions, but I really want to learn how to take proper care of this tub.

[Hillbilly Hot Tub]

www.aquachek.com

Its in the upper right and corner....note how "chek" is spelled in the web address.

At first you may have to check the tub after each use to learn how you and you family are effecting the water chemistry. After a little while you will learn, know what is needed and only have to check once per week. I would use the test strips for the daily check, and unless something is really out of whack, use the taylor kit weekly. CYA does not read coreectly on test strips IMO, but don;t worry about it unless it is sky high.

The N2 or frog is a preferance. It keeps the water a little less harsh, protects you a bit if the chlorine level does drop for any reason and you can keep a lower chlorine level with it. Frog can be used with bromine, N2 can not.

The ozonator helps to oxidize the wastes in the tub. It will reduce the amount of chlorine you need since it is doing some of the work.

[chem geek]

They mean how long to wait after adding a chemical before testing again. In a spa, the water mixes VERY quickly if the pump is running. Even 10 minutes should be fine. As for one turnover of water in a spa, it's probably less than an hour -- possibly 30 minutes -- depending on how many jets you've got running, size of pump, etc.

Even in pools, mixing is quite a bit faster than one turnover which takes many hours. I find that with decent circulation, water chemistry stabilized in about a half hour in a pool.

Richard

[Hillbilly Hot Tub]

They mean how long to wait after adding a chemical before testing again. In a spa, the water mixes VERY quickly if the pump is running. Even 10 minutes should be fine. As for one turnover of water in a spa, it's probably less than an hour -- possibly 30 minutes -- depending on how many jets you've got running, size of pump, etc.

Even in pools, mixing is quite a bit faster than one turnover which takes many hours. I find that with decent circulation, water chemistry stabilized in about a half hour in a pool.

Richard

Actually, they suggest in hot tubs if you have to add more than 2 ounces at a time of PH down, say you are real high and need 4 ounces, you should do 2 ounces then wait 4 hours and do 2 ounces again, this way it stops the chance of any damage to the tub by adding it all at once. I usually do not wait a full 4 hours, but I do wait some.