Pump And Filter Relocation Planning

[msg]

Hello all,

first post here on what looks like a great forum for q&a.

I'm considering relocating the pump and filter on a 24ft. round above ground pool.

I'm no plumber or electrician but have done a little of each, and seems like it'd be a pretty straight forward deal.

quick reading tells me I may have a few issues to be concerned with before I begin, though.

1.) the length of the power cable run

2.) increasing the length of the suction and return lines.

my general plan is to replace the flex hose with PVC, burying most of it, adding maybe 15-20ft. total to the runs.

then, extending the power box by about another 20ft. or so.

it's probably already about 20ft. on a converted inside to outside box.

it's a 20A circuit, I believe, with minimal additional load -- lights, I think that are rarely powered.

the outside receptacle is a 20A GFCI, and I think the existing wire run is 12gauge in a buried Carlon conduit.

not sure of the pump specs, but will return with them later.

it's pretty loud right now and may require replacing anyway -- probably worn bearing; haven't had a chance to pull it apart yet.

how long do these things generally last? it get cold and rainy here in the winter, but rarely freezing. I didn't bring it in or cover it last year

anyone see any problems here?

also, is Carlon conduit just flexible pvc? can I use some wirenuts and their coupling with some regular PVC primer & glue?

I'm thinking I'd be better pulling a fresh cable run from the box on the back of the house.

thanks in advance.

Scott G.

Virginia Beach

[Pathfinder]

Whats the total run from the pool to the equipment? I wouldnt be to concerned about the suction line since gravity does most of the work. It the return run that you need to be concerned about.

when doing your new plumbing remember that every 90 & 45 reduces your overall flow. IMO you would be better using flex for your return line.

[msg]

Whats the total run from the pool to the equipment? I wouldnt be to concerned about the suction line since gravity does most of the work. It the return run that you need to be concerned about.

when doing your new plumbing remember that every 90 & 45 reduces your overall flow. IMO you would be better using flex for your return line.

the current setup uses 6ft. suction and return lines.

I'm estimating the new location to be around 20-25ft. max with all the "extra" routing.

but yeah, lots of 90's and 45's.

I haven't seen flex at longer lengths than 6ft. at the shop.

have you ever coupled flex hose to extend the length?

how about burying it?

trying to tidy up a bit.

the current motor is 1HP at 12A.

how do you know how much power you need to maintain proper flow with PVC routing?

just pulled the motor apart this afternoon.

whines a bit. the front bearing's a little crunchy.

are these easy to replace? I have a puller, but is this is the sort of thing I can pickup at a pool shop, or even have them remove and install them?

[Pathfinder]

With regards to the pump you may have to search for the bearing. Either I have a new motor put in or just a complete pump since paying for a bearing change will probly cost you the same amount. Pool and Spa PVC Flex pipe at 1 1/2 " comes in 50ft rolls If your local pool place doesnt have it look online for Tiger Flex or Arrow Tubing. With this piping you can either glue it with normal PVC glue Sched 40 or connect it with barbed fittings and double clamp. It can be buried. You can even use Black PolyPipe to bury underground & use hard Sched 40 PVC fittings at the pool and equipment. At each end you would have a barbed fitting to attach to the poly pipe. The distance should be fine.

[msg]

With regards to the pump you may have to search for the bearing. Either I have a new motor put in or just a complete pump since paying for a bearing change will probly cost you the same amount. Pool and Spa PVC Flex pipe at 1 1/2 " comes in 50ft rolls If your local pool place doesnt have it look online for Tiger Flex or Arrow Tubing. With this piping you can either glue it with normal PVC glue Sched 40 or connect it with barbed fittings and double clamp. It can be buried. You can even use Black PolyPipe to bury underground & use hard Sched 40 PVC fittings at the pool and equipment. At each end you would have a barbed fitting to attach to the poly pipe. The distance should be fine.

EXCELLENT!!!

our local pool supply places don't seem to have a readily available supply of the barbed fittings.

do you have a preferred online supplier for this sort of equipment?

great info.

thanks for all the help so far.

[Sparkmaster]

Concerning the distance for the electrical. You shouldnt have no worries if its withen 100 feet total lenght from panel to your pump. If its more than that, I would upgrade the wiring to 10 gauge to prevent voltage drop.

[Magna_Mike]

I will add to what SparkMaster said, in that if you are just going to extend the line 20 feet farther from where the electrical is now, what I would do personally is go to HomeDepot and pick up a in ground flush mount 6x6 box that would fit the current conduit (pvc) and put it where the current electrical stops, make your connection in this waterproof junction box, and extend from there. This way it is not sticking out of the ground, you can mow over it, and you have access to the splice.

I am not sure if there are NEC codes for above ground pools.... I know most for inground pools, but this being a DIY, you should not have any code issues if done the way suggested.

[Sparkmaster]

Just a note on that PVC Junction box and NEC. Ground conductor must be unspliced and continuous to the receptacle. I think this is incase the splice breaks loose or somebody disconnects it and forgets about it..