Mineral Springs Swg

[red002]

My mineral springs SWG control panel is stuck in metric display. What do you have to do to make it read in english standard?

Thanks

Red

[teach2000]

Mine did the same thing a couple years ago and I called the phone number on the system. I had to push the button and hold it on one of the numbers but I can't remember which one. I was embarrased that it was so simple to fix but the guy says he gets that problem all the time.

Hope this helps.

[D0TC]

Push the black 'diagnostic' button once and switch the lever from 'auto' to 'superchlorinate' and back to 'auto' and you'll have the non-metric #s show.

[beckersinMD]

Push the black 'diagnostic' button once and switch the lever from 'auto' to 'superchlorinate' and back to 'auto' and you'll have the non-metric #s show.

Somewhat related but I thought the system tells you the PPM of the minerals it sees in the pool? I push thru the options using the button and don't see it.

[Strannik]

It shows you ppm when in imperial, and grams per litre i think when in metric.

So if you are in metric you need to switch to imperial.

[D0TC]

Dirty little secret: the only mineral it's showing is salt

These are the exact same systems as the Goldline SWCG systems. IMO - the mineral springs stuff is over expensive chems -- you can get most of them at the GD grocery store for a fraction of the price! If you are interested in saving some $ while adding the EXACT same chems to the pool, just post here and I'll tell you what you need (and, perhaps more importantly, what you don't need from the BioGuard prepackaged stuff) If you follow the chems for a regular Aqua-Rite SWCG the system will work perfectly - as said, they are the exact same unit.

[NESPORTZDAWG]

Dirty little secret: the only mineral it's showing is salt

These are the exact same systems as the Goldline SWCG systems. IMO - the mineral springs stuff is over expensive chems -- you can get most of them at the GD grocery store for a fraction of the price! If you are interested in saving some $ while adding the EXACT same chems to the pool, just post here and I'll tell you what you need (and, perhaps more importantly, what you don't need from the BioGuard prepackaged stuff) If you follow the chems for a regular Aqua-Rite SWCG the system will work perfectly - as said, they are the exact same unit.

[NESPORTZDAWG]

Dirty little secret: the only mineral it's showing is salt

These are the exact same systems as the Goldline SWCG systems. IMO - the mineral springs stuff is over expensive chems -- you can get most of them at the GD grocery store for a fraction of the price! If you are interested in saving some $ while adding the EXACT same chems to the pool, just post here and I'll tell you what you need (and, perhaps more importantly, what you don't need from the BioGuard prepackaged stuff) If you follow the chems for a regular Aqua-Rite SWCG the system will work perfectly - as said, they are the exact same unit.

Hey Guy,

I have a mineral springs system. Currently paying 39.99 per 30#bag of mineral springs beginnings + 15.99 a bag for weekly renewal. How can I get these products cheaper, and will they work the same way.

Any suggestions

[D0TC]

The chems you need for a salt pool (which Mineral Springs is) are:

1) Salt - the salt must be 99+% pure and contain NO anti-caking agents (yellow prusite?) nor iodine (which is why you can't just get a 'butt-load' of packets from McDonald's to salt the pool) - solar salt is great - some of the 'BIG BOX' stores sell salt especially for pool use --- but... they add the anti-caking agent and don't list it on the bag??? Coarse solar salt is a safe bet.

2) Cyanuric acid (a/k/a stabilizer or conditioner) this chem prevents the UV radiation from the Sun from burning off the chlorine you just made from the salt in the pool. Also referred to as 'cya' it's available from pool stores and hardware stores that have a pool section.

3) A source to raise pH (though the units themselves tend to raise the pH by the byproduct production of hydrogen gas while converting the salt to chlorine) - from the grocery store you can buy Borax (the laundry additive), it's not a very strong base to raise the pH, but at levels ~ 50+ ppm, it has algaecidal properties, so that your SWCG doesn't have to run as much to keep algae from forming, there are other benefits of using the Borax pertaining to pH control and alkalinity. Also, in the laundry section of the supermarket, Arm and Hammer sells "washing soda" which is 'soda ash' that is sold in pool stores as pH up or pH plus (it's a blue box - NOT the yellow baking soda box)

4) A source to raise the alkalinity, baking soda off the shelf of the grocery store - it's the same chemical that you would pay $$$ more for from the pool store as Alk up or Buffer plus.

5) A source to lower pH and thereby alkalinity, Muriatic acid (31.45% hydrochloric acid) some places are now selling lower % 'Muriatic acid' (as with all chems you buy, check the label for what's in them and at what %)

6) A source to raise calcium (IF you have a crete pool) - from the hardware store, get some ~ 77% calcium flakes for melting ice (again, check the ingredients - you want calcium and inert - no other special additives)

7) AND THIS SHOULD BE #1 - a GOOD drop based test kit that measures chlorine over 30 ppm, pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness and cyanuric acid - Taylor 2006 is a good one, some other kits are the same chems and you may be able to get one of them cheaper - the important thing is that it has "FAS/ DPD" chlorine test!

The savings that you will enjoy from using the chems I suggest, as opposed to the Mineral packs you are now using, will pay for the good kit within a season!

I, of course, didn't go into everything for proper pool maintenance in this post - if you have questions, please ask!