buriboi
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Posts posted by buriboi
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Welllll, that didn't last long.
Based on the sound and reduced water flow, the gate valve has probably fallen back down, though not quite as much as last week. Guess I'll get the local spa shop to come replace it
My streak of luck with home repair is officially over with this hot tub....oh well - 7 years without a service call isn't bad!! -
3 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:
Getting it to stay up you might get lucky. If it gets loose water can get past it and leak out around the handle shaft or the shaft can blow right out and will drain the spa in short order. Sadly no quick fix for a one piece gate valve. There are serviceable gate valves but they can have issues as well with gasket o-rings wearing out over time...but at least you can replace them. Having said that I still go for the one piece valves even though they are always a risk when using them. I don't "pull" on them.. To open when closed I use the end of my oil filter wrench and gently pry the handle up a bit (1") and then lift them up. Seems to work 9/10...lol.
Well, let's just cross our fingers for now. I've never actually had to lower the gate in 7 years...I was contemplating using some of the JD Water Weld stuff to just jam it open, lol...maybe not a good idea, though.
Anyhow, thanks everybody for your quick responses and insight, especially @CanadianSpaTech....I think you've taken the time to answer every question I've ever asked in here, lol!-
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Updxate: I took out the pump and it seemed ok when I run it (video attached).
So I decided to check the "gate" (I'm not too good with the lingo, lol) at the far end of the heater, and lo and behold, it was almost fully in the "down" position, despite the lift-bar being fully up. (photo attached)
I presume that's why the water flow was so horrible, right?
So, for a completely useless fool like myself, is there an easy way to get that "gate" functional without having to resort to any kind of plumbing, lol? I pushed it all the way back up, and it's holding for the time being, but I imagine it's now at high risk of falling down again.
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5 hours ago, Ahhsomeguy said:
Hi Buriboi: Was the flow and pressure fine the very last time the spa was turned on? It sounds like there is something restricting the flow. Perhaps an object was pulled into the suction line. Do you have a diverter for a fountain on your model? If so, move that lever and see if that helps. What you hear is pump cavitation. This occurs when the pump is straining to get adequate amounts of water in the pump strainer basket and housing.
You need to find the source and not run that pump as much until you do.
Water flow was perfect the day before.
No fountain diverter either. I 'm gonna check the wet end of the pump as per @CanadianSpaTech's recommendatition.
Oh, here's a video of me turning the jets on and off twice. You can it's pretty high-pitched and when I turn it off, it seems to be fairly "clunky". -
Hi all,
When I turned on my Hydropool Serenity 5000 hottub tonight, the pump sounded strange....high-pitched. I checked the jets, and all jets were operating at around 25% of their usual pressure.
The pump also only toggles between off and low speed - not high speed.
I can hear that water is flowing through the heater, but I feel that, too, sounds different than usual.
I removed the filter to compare, and nothing seems to change.
My only repair trick is to turn off the power then back on. If that doesn't solve it, I come here!
Thoughts??
P.S. filter area is clean, and the filter is newish -
41 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said:
Well, i dunno what happened, but it gave up on DRN and went to OH (overheat). I ended up taking the casing off the impeller housing just to take a peak and when I put it back together, all seemed to work perfectly.
Must have been a Spa Goblin!!!
Thanks again for your help
The topside panel will show DRN to indicate that the tub is in drain mode. Water should then begin to drain out the end of the hose. Hydropool tubs are drained using the pump. ... This will help to remove any dirt and clean the tub surface.http://budsspas.com/app/uploads/2015/04/Draining-Your-Hydropool-Tub.pdf
Think you still have air in pump wet end... did you put the impeller back on...lol
Crack the union at the face of the pump and let it dip/run water out with the pump running until pump pressure returns. Let us know results
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9 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:
First off, thanks for the help - this is the second time you've figured something out for me!
I got the new pump seal and got adventurous and installed it myself, since they told me it would be FOUR WEEKS for a service call...wow!
Now it's not leaking, so I think we solved it....except that the jets don't seem to be doing anything. When I power it back up from the "off" position, the jets aren't working at all. The display alternates between the time and the messsage "Drn".
The local shop suggested an air lock, so I loosed a couple connections and re-tightened them and also turned the tub off at the breaker for a few minutes. No luck.
Any thoughts?
Just needs a quick rebuild. Pump seal $10 and impeller $35 plus the service call cost. Usually takes me 1.5 hours... 2 at most. It is in an easy location and the pump shaft looks clean and not rusted. Not hard to DIY and there are lots of videos on how to. Post photo of the white tag on the top of the motor if you want a part list. Note if it is an XP2 or XP2E
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Hello all,
I noticed my hydropool 5000 spa's water level dropped pretty significantly over the last 3-4 days, and upon inspection, found water leaking from the area circled in the photo below.
Being a complete layman, I'm just looking for thoughts before I get the spa guy here, as I'd prefer to be at least a little informed before agreeing to an expensive fix!
Any help appreciated!.thumb.jpg.9a04e5b099d1a4f4589dc765b5c5ce2d.jpg)
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11 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said:
Looks clean so likely in the processor.. replace with new. Keep it around though still good parts there you may need in the future
Yeah, figured as much. Maybe if I yell and scream at the local dealer enough about all the problems this piece of junk has experienced, they'll give me a decent deal
oh well, thanks for all the help - it's very appreciated!!
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@CanadianSpaTech
Now that I'm done with pornhub, I can bring my attention back to this pesky spa pack.
I removed the pack and snapped some pictures of the rear of the circuit board. Looks pretty untouched to my very untrained eye.
Thoughts?
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@CanadianSpaTech
So if the topside panel is unplugged, after powering on, it took 20 seconds to hear a single "click". That same click then repeated every 10 seconds indefinitely.So you think whole new spa pack required? No reason to take it out and check the circuit board, hoping for a better outcome?
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@CanadianSpaTech
Quick Update,
I finally found the time today to get this done. Buuuut, just before I was about to follow your instructions to take the board out full, I noticed the wire for the topside control panel was loose. So, I plugged it in fully, and the panel is getting power, as opposed to none.
This change might not make any difference whatsoever in the troubleshooting, but I wanted to explain exactly what it's doing now before doing too much else.
Control panel is now back to showing the sequence: 8888, 294, r6, LL39. It'll click, then, 10 seconds later, click again. Re-cycles through this over and over.Do I still continue as planned?
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1 hour ago, CanadianSpaTech said:
Alright, I'll get on it some time in the next few days and let you know the results. Thanks so much for all the help so far! Wish me luck
New manual to use here: http://www.aquaspaandpoolsupply.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/TECHBOOK-IN.XE_.pdf
Power off
Remove all the connections going into the front of the pack and note their locations so you can get them back into the correct position when reinstalling the pack.
open fuse door and remove the incoming power wires and pull them completely out of the side of the pack. You will see the colour code printed there so you can reinstall in the right position...red white black and ground
Remove the 6 small screws on the bottom door
Remove L1 L2 and ground wires (Page 17)
remove the 2 small connectors just to the right of them (Page 44 the in.flo cable and hi limit) (also page 72 first photo)
Remove the 2 screws down at the very bottom that holds the pack to the flooring (first pic on page 67)
Remove the 4 screws as depicted on page 71 titled heater bracket.
Now we are going to leave the heater tube (chrome tube) in place and slide the pack out from around the heater tube. You might have to wiggle it and finagle it out. The wires that we disconnected L1 L2 Ground and the 2 probe connections have to pull through an opening at the bottom of the pack as you are removing the pack so go easy and feed them through the bottom of the pack as you remove it from around the heater tube
Once removed there will be screws on the backside of the pack. 10 or so. Remove the screws and post a photo of the circuit board.
Tools you will likely need...Phillips screwdriver. a flat head and needle nose pliers. Electrical tape to tape each incoming power wire if the pack is going to be out of the spa for longer than today for safety sake.
Let us know if you get stuck with any of this
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2 minutes ago, CanadianSpaTech said:
Not that hard but would depend on skill and comfort level.
It sounds likely that it will need to be removed. If there is damage on the backside you would either have to have an electronics guy fix it or replace it with new.
Do you want to attempt removing it?
Well, since I'm working from home with this COVID thing, I guess I can find some time to try it myself
My skill level is pretty damn low, but I'm decent with following good instructions, I suppose. -
1 minute ago, CanadianSpaTech said:
Not that hard but would depend on skill and comfort level.
It sounds likely that it will need to be removed. If there is damage on the backside you would either have to have an electronics guy fix it or replace it with new.
Do you want to attempt removing it?
Well, since I'm working from home with this COVID thing, I guess I can find some time to try it myself
My skill level is pretty damn low, but I'm decent with following good instructions, I suppose. -
6 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:
Morning
. Thanks for the response.
So, with my *extremely* limited abilities, I *THINK* I can answer some of your questions:
#1. When this "clicking" first happened 4-5 days ago, on power-up, the topside display showed the following codes between clicks: "294", "r6", and "LL39". Then it would just re-cycle through those codes over and over between clicking. NOW, there doesn't even appear to be any backlighting, and certainly no codes whatsoever
#2. Using Multimeter, it appears all 4 fuses are showing continuity.
#3. 240V and 120V with the various power checks.
I guess that leaves me at your last step - removing the spa pack. This sounds difficult to me, lol...is it?
Are we at the point where I bite the bullet and spend some hard-earned money on a spa tech from the local place that is well-known for absolutely ripping everybody off?
Thanks again!6 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:
6 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:Yawn..Good Morning all...So currently you flip the breaker on and what happens... does the topside still show the series of numbers? Does it get to PR? Does it show HR? or just nothing at all just a little bit of back light?
Test your incoming power and verify you have 240V going into the pack
Fuses F1 and F2 protect the pumps and are likely good, F3 fuse is your accessories fuse (blower) also likely good but test them all regardless.
F4 the small glass fuse at the bottom is the one you want to test it powers the transformer that powers the circuit board.
If you have 240 v going to the pack and all fuses test good and you still have nothing showing on the topside display then you will likely have to remove the spa pack and remove the back cover to check for any burnt or darkened areas. If you get this far post a pic of the back of the circuit board.
Here is the tech book (make sure to follow in.xe instructions): https://issuu.com/geckomkt/docs/troubleshooting_guide_y_xe_en
Let us know results
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27 minutes ago, RDspaguy said:
Yeah, the fuses were my first thought a few days ago. Then, when I checked them, I realized 3 of them are bizarre-looking buggers, so I couldn't tell if one was blown. They look fine, externally, but you can't see the inside like you can on the fourth down below by itself. (see pic)
That said, nothing looks obviously burnt.
@CanadianSpaTech, another gecko issue for you, fanboy. 🤪Have you checked fuses? Remove the two cover plates, I suspect there is something accessible under there in that *&%$#@ Canadian piece of *&%$#@! Canadaguy is much more familiar with them than I, but it's past his bedtime, so you might have to wait to hear from him. Be patient, he's worth the wait.
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Hi all,
Just wondering if any of the wise gurus in this forum have any thoughts before I have to shell out big cash to repair my hot tub.
2015 Hydropool Serenity 5000 Gold.
Issue: Tub was working normally. We turned the power off to drain/clean it, then refilled it with fresh water (no different than what we do every 6 months).
When it was full, we flipped the breaker back on, and rather than the usual pumps and jets starting up after a few seconds, we just hear a "click" from the spa pack, following by a 10 second delay, then another "click". It does this over and over again, but nothing else. Looks like the spa pack is a Gecko IN.XE AeWare spa Controller.
When this first occured a few days ago, there were a series of numbers and letters on the display during boot up (as usual)...now there's none appearing at all (but still power, as it's illuminated)
Seems electrical-ish to me (relay?), but I'm not saavy whatsoever with such things.
Thoughts?
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Greatly reduced jet pressure
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
@CanadianSpaTech
So I called the local spa shop to inquire and the guy said it's about $250 to replace, which I'm cool with. Unfortunately, a service visit would be weeks and weeks away.
He actually suggested, without me asking, that I could just drain the tub and find a way to keep the door open myself Using glue or something similar like water Weld putty.
Considering how atrocious I am with anything plumber anything plumbing related, I'm considering it.
But, since you suggested it, here are the pictures of each of the gate valves... Maybe once I read the instructions, I'd be willing to do it myself if it's super easy.