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RDspaguy

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Posts posted by RDspaguy

  1. On 12/3/2023 at 7:53 PM, diythis said:

    240v (2 x 120v inputs)

    Not the same thing. You can lose a leg on the breaker and still read 120v to ground or neutral on both wires. Test for 240v red to black.

    On 12/6/2023 at 2:47 PM, diythis said:

    of the fuses appear fine and test fine with the multimeter for continuity. 

    A continuity test must be done with the fuses out. If installed, test voltage.

    The spa will run automated functions with the topside disconnected. If it did not then the topside is not the problem, the circuit board or breaker is.

    Replace fuses. Verify 240v to spa. Remove board a check the back for damage.

  2. On 11/28/2023 at 3:24 PM, Doctorhawaii said:

    pressure switch itself?

    If it has a pressure switch jumper it. Most IQ packs don't. They are prone to failure and have been eliminated by many control manfs by using flow switches or sensor protection. The fact it has no pressure switch used to be a selling point for HS. They were first with input/output sensors, the very system later adopted by balboa, the leading spa control manf in history, for their M7 technology.

    It figures, the one single solitary time I don't ask for pics and it's an oddball.🙄

  3. On 11/27/2023 at 11:39 AM, Deric said:

    HL code is displayed all the time

    How long after power reset until it shows the error? A few seconds, a minute, several minutes?

    It is most likely a bad sensor. Replace both at the same time. They should be noted on the wiring diagram, just track the wires as needed.

  4. Most likely the heater is running without flow or the sensor is touching the element. Remove filter. Check heater pump, which is often a different pump than the jets, for flow. Check to verify power is turning off to the heater as a stuck relay will cause it to do as you describe as soon as power is turned on.

  5. From your description it is likely a flow or sensor issue. Is the tub actually getting too hot overall?

    On 11/18/2023 at 7:01 PM, Doctorhawaii said:

    filters are fresh and clean, the circ pump is good and the circ flow is strong.

    Bold statement. How was this determined?

    Remove circ filter (the closest to the pumps) and test.

    Check circ pump for obstructions.

    Check circ for loud or hot operation (you should barely hear it and should not jerk your hand away when you touch it).

    Test thermistors (unlikely but I'd do it anyway).

  6. On 11/4/2023 at 11:30 PM, redbird280 said:

    may have centrifugal switches with contacts for low and high speed, and symptoms of failing resemble

    On 11/4/2023 at 11:30 PM, redbird280 said:

    After 17 yrs

    Good God, man! Get a new one!

    Just kidding, new motors are crap compared to that one. Take it to a shop for a rebuild.

    On 11/4/2023 at 11:30 PM, redbird280 said:

    a Sta-Rite Durajet

    So, pump manifacturers don't make motors, and you're looking for motor parts. Shop by motor brand (century, emerson, ect.) and mod# for motor parts.

  7. Definitely pull the filter. Filters can collapse under high pressures, greatly reducing flow. There also may be a check valve in the system that could be damaged and closing under high pressure. 

    Most SDs from that period are plumbed such that a collapsed filter would effect all the jets on that pump, not just the heat return.

    Post the pics.

  8. Post pics of equipment area, circuit board, and wiring diagram.

    As I recall, that circ pump pulls off the pressure side of the jet pump, so turning on the jets would force water through the circ pump and heater. This is how the circ is optional, as the main pump will feed the heater too. Which makes this even more weird than you think.

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