RDspaguy
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Posts posted by RDspaguy
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Ok. The mystery is that it corrects for a while then returns.
The temp sensor is accurate and it shows the tub gradually overheating as it continues to run the pump, or it shows a normal temp then triggers an overheat error randomly?
I'm not familiar with that system, @CanadianSpaTech is the local gecko expert. Maybe he has some insight.
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Post pics of equipment area and circuit board.
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On 12/3/2023 at 7:53 PM, diythis said:
240v (2 x 120v inputs)
Not the same thing. You can lose a leg on the breaker and still read 120v to ground or neutral on both wires. Test for 240v red to black.
On 12/6/2023 at 2:47 PM, diythis said:of the fuses appear fine and test fine with the multimeter for continuity.
A continuity test must be done with the fuses out. If installed, test voltage.
The spa will run automated functions with the topside disconnected. If it did not then the topside is not the problem, the circuit board or breaker is.
Replace fuses. Verify 240v to spa. Remove board a check the back for damage.
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Yep. They usually come with a factory jumper on the board.
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On 11/4/2023 at 1:29 AM, RDspaguy said:
you're going with a new pack, I'd get a Balboa.
On 11/4/2023 at 8:55 AM, CanadianSpaTech said:Fully on board with Balboa as a replacement
On 11/27/2023 at 8:28 PM, Tman3825 said:purchased a Gecko Ye-5 bundle
🫡
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On 11/28/2023 at 3:24 PM, Doctorhawaii said:
pressure switch itself?
If it has a pressure switch jumper it. Most IQ packs don't. They are prone to failure and have been eliminated by many control manfs by using flow switches or sensor protection. The fact it has no pressure switch used to be a selling point for HS. They were first with input/output sensors, the very system later adopted by balboa, the leading spa control manf in history, for their M7 technology.
It figures, the one single solitary time I don't ask for pics and it's an oddball.🙄
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On 11/27/2023 at 11:39 AM, Deric said:
HL code is displayed all the time
How long after power reset until it shows the error? A few seconds, a minute, several minutes?
It is most likely a bad sensor. Replace both at the same time. They should be noted on the wiring diagram, just track the wires as needed.
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Check with your dealer, but I'm inclined to say you cannot. It depends on how it's plumbed.
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You need to determine if it is switching off at the board or not. If it has power to the pump when the pump is not running it's a pump issue.
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The red jumper wire going to a terminal labelled "jet 1 & 2" determines voltage to the pumps. Verify correct voltage.
Verify correct pump wiring, as the red pump wire goes to a terminal labelled black. This does not mean it's wrong, but it may be depending on where the other end of that wire is.
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Most likely the heater is running without flow or the sensor is touching the element. Remove filter. Check heater pump, which is often a different pump than the jets, for flow. Check to verify power is turning off to the heater as a stuck relay will cause it to do as you describe as soon as power is turned on.
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From your description it is likely a flow or sensor issue. Is the tub actually getting too hot overall?
On 11/18/2023 at 7:01 PM, Doctorhawaii said:filters are fresh and clean, the circ pump is good and the circ flow is strong.
Bold statement. How was this determined?
Remove circ filter (the closest to the pumps) and test.
Check circ pump for obstructions.
Check circ for loud or hot operation (you should barely hear it and should not jerk your hand away when you touch it).
Test thermistors (unlikely but I'd do it anyway).
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The white wire determines component voltage anx connects at the main power terminal block for 240v or 120v. Just follow the other white wires to find them.
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The heater should not be effected by a leak unless electrical components are wet.
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What is that red wire supposed to be connected to?
Does the motor start in low and run fine, only having an issue when you switch down from high, or will it do the same starting in low?
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Sounds like a stuck/shorted button. No way to fix it that I know of if it's not wiring or board connection. Check back of board for discoloration at the connector. Brush lightly with wire brush.
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Maybe. Post pics of your circuit board and wiring diagram.
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Those are usually air intakes for the jet air control valves or manifold. Either way, it should go up under the shoulder above water line. This becomes pressurized from damaged or improperly installed jets. Under normal circumstances this is an air vacuum line.
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On 11/11/2023 at 10:23 AM, redbird280 said:
just makes a racket the whole time and then shuts off.
What kind of a racket?
On 11/11/2023 at 10:32 AM, redbird280 said:knowing "for sure" that a new pump/motor combo will do the trick.
Test voltages. If the board is switching correctly it's the pump 99%.
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Check the controller wiring for mice damage.
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On 11/4/2023 at 11:30 PM, redbird280 said:
may have centrifugal switches with contacts for low and high speed, and symptoms of failing resemble
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On 11/4/2023 at 11:30 PM, redbird280 said:After 17 yrs
Good God, man! Get a new one!
Just kidding, new motors are crap compared to that one. Take it to a shop for a rebuild.
On 11/4/2023 at 11:30 PM, redbird280 said:a Sta-Rite Durajet
So, pump manifacturers don't make motors, and you're looking for motor parts. Shop by motor brand (century, emerson, ect.) and mod# for motor parts.
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There are 3 led lights on the board, which are lit?
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Definitely pull the filter. Filters can collapse under high pressures, greatly reducing flow. There also may be a check valve in the system that could be damaged and closing under high pressure.
Most SDs from that period are plumbed such that a collapsed filter would effect all the jets on that pump, not just the heat return.
Post the pics.
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Post pics of equipment area, circuit board, and wiring diagram.
As I recall, that circ pump pulls off the pressure side of the jet pump, so turning on the jets would force water through the circ pump and heater. This is how the circ is optional, as the main pump will feed the heater too. Which makes this even more weird than you think.
balboa numbers cycle 80-104 then back down.
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
It's a stuck temp button or short on the circuit.