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CanadianSpaTech
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Posts posted by CanadianSpaTech
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First verify White to red 120v white to black 120v red to black 240v. Test and verify the F4 glass fuse. It powers the board. Take it out to test. Test the large buss fuse (sc25 or sc30 on it) It powers the pump. Verify W1 goes to the white AC bank (top left). This bank is for 120v components and you have a 120v pump. Red AC is for 240v components. If you have correct power going into the pack and all fuses test good then try and disconnect the topside and see if it will run automated. Might take about 5 mins to run through the purge stage before anything happen. At some point you may have to remove the board and look on the back for dark or burnt areas.
Verify the white wire coming from the spa goes into the GFCI breaker and not connected to the neutral bar. Only the white pigtail off the GFCI goes to the neutral bar.
12 hours ago, GreenEnvy22 said:Can I do any testing without filling the tub back up?
Yes. I will usually disconnect the heater.
Heater element looks rusted and will likely have to be replaced at some point. See below.
You can test for 240v at the 2 copper tabs during testing if needed.
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7 hours ago, tractorclub said:
Balboa Hot tub it has a BF75 controller
Not familiar with that pack/system.
What brand of hot tub?
Please post photos of the circuit board, topside controller and the schematic on the inside cover so we can see what you have and how it is set up.
Sounds like you may have a stuck pump relay.
C1... 1 cycle per day, c2... 2 cycles per day.
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Post pics of the circuit board and schematic on inside cover
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Sounds like bad sensors to me. Try unplugging just one and see if you get an SN A or B error. Try Test Mode. See below. Power off before changing dip switches.
Google: Troubleshooting & Service for EL/VS Systems
Put the spa in test mode with the light on, so that you see the two sensor temperatures. Are they normal (within 1°F/0.5°C) when not heating? How far apart are ...
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Post photos
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OP.. Did it come wired like that?
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@cranbiz Yeah pretty sure Stevie Wonder is not going to see this post 👁️👁️ 🤣
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4 hours ago, cranbiz said:
Post up the wiring diagram
Interested to see why the incoming power wires are connected directly to the board like that.
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Sounds a little high to me for a smaller 79" tub.
What brand of spa?
How old is it?
How old is the cover?
Does it have a circulation pump or does it use a main pump for heating and filtering?
Where are you located?
Post pics of where the spa is currently located in your yard and I'm sure we can make some recommendations to help lower your monthly costs.
Main concern with that type of enclosure would be controlling moisture and condensation.
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5 hours ago, Scubakerny said:
could it possibly be the heater pressure or freeze value/sensor causing it to blow?
unlikely
If it is blowing the main breaker and not the GFCI outside I would go through all the wiring connections from inside panel all the way to the pack and make sure there are no loose ground or neutral connections
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On 1/21/2024 at 8:26 AM, Markpesci said:
Wondering how much this extreme cold we're seeing might have something to do with it as well.
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Make sure all jets are open. Remove filter until issue is fixed. Take them out of the equation. Turn off all air injection valves.
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Get the circ out so you can have it in front of you. Open the back up and see if there is any rust or bad connections. You will likely have to swap it out. Shop around for best price on a Laing e 14. Verify 120V or 230V before ordering.
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If freezing is not an issue you could disconnect the heater from the circuit board and then just run circulation. Important to maintain chemicals and cycle the main pumps a couple of times a week to clear out the lines. While the cabinet is open you could tuck a small tip proof thermostatically controlled space heater set on 750W med low inside with the cord hanging out so you can plug it in for a few hours when temps go low. Being temp controlled you can set it at a very low setting and it won't cost a lot. Just to keep the chill out. I have had a flip spa not running while waiting for parts with just a space heater inside on low without issue and it has been -20C here for the past 2 weeks. The water will have to maintain above a certain temp so it won't go into freeze protection and run the pumps non stop.
Clod plunge spas are all the rage... I dare ya...lol
In the Spring run a plumbing purge using Ahh-Some or similar product to remove any organics from the pipes.
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You are good. Did you buy just the circuit board or entire pack? If you bought the entire pack dip switch settings are on inside cover.
See bottom half of page 5 here: https://www.elmsalesandequipment.com/ELM_Catalogue_2023.pdf
Use these dip switch settings: https://spacare.com/productimages/pdfmanuals/Balboa/VS501Z.PDF
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Every spa will have different results. To many varying factors.
If you have a non circ system and the spa runs 2- 2 hour filter cycles a day I would run the spa in Econo mode. Usually the filter cycle start time is determined when you flip the breaker on. Then the second cycle 10 hours later after the first cycle ends. In Econo mode the 10 hour period in between filter cycles if the temp drops the heater will NOT bring the water temp back up to the set/desired temp until the next filter cycle has begun. Once the filter cycle starts if there has been 2 degrees or more of heat loss it will then run the heater for a short period of time and bring it back up to the set temp.
If you have a typical pattern of use and like to go into your spa each night at 8pm then reset the breaker at 6 am or pm. That way when you go out to the spa at 8pm it has run the 2 hour filtering/heating cycle and the spa is at your desired temp.
Turn off air injection jets and water features when not in use. The system draws cooler air from inside the cabinet and can have a cooling effect when not in use.
If you ever need to replace the cover go 6"-4" thick and has an end to end center steam seal and a long (5") side skirt. Like your home most heat loss is through the roof.
If your spa has side vents in the cabinet to cool the pumps you might want to consider restricting them in the Winter months.
Add rockwool insulation to any voids inside the spa... leaving enough room for the pumps to breath.
Enjoy
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Not a Hot Springs guy but some spas have a ball valve located inside the cabinet just under the waterfall. Waterfalls are such a useless feature and usually cause more trouble then pleasure. JMO
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Might want to post this in the inflatable section of this forum... https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/forum/28-inflatable-hot-tubs/
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11 hours ago, cranbiz said:
Huh?
Quoted the wrong response, me thinks. One too many Labatt's my friend? 🤣
No such thing...lol.
I was just being lazy. You said what needed to be said.
More of a wine drinker...lol
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On 12/26/2023 at 8:11 AM, cranbiz said:
Post up pictures of the board and the wiring diagram that is usually found on the inside of the cover. Make sure we have a good shot of the dip switches.
There are several jumper wires that need to be moved as well as changing dip switch positions. It's not hard to miss one.
Please start your own thread and post the pics
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Free hot tubs are never free
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15 hours ago, Rufnek100 said:
The tech informed me that they are sealed units and not designed to be opened up or serviced.
They can be opened up. The hardest part is getting the female pump connections through the housing to get the board out. They will come out with the board (see video below). If you can get the board out have a look at the capacitors and see if any are bulging. Look on the back for darkened or burnt areas. See post by Sebast about capacitors... https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/53524-gecko-inxe-spa-pack-stuck-in-boot-up-low-voltage-power-supply/#comment-208142
Verify that you have correct power coming into the board. 120V white to black 120 white to red and 240v red to black.
If you have correct power then the issue is likely down stream of that... Board or topside. Look at the capacitor to see if it is damaged and not sending correct power to the topside.
Did Gecko verify that the topside is compatible?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIhCsvuqCpc
Where are you located?
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1 hour ago, My.User.Name said:
I wonder if draining it asap while I can is the best idea
Unless you are going to blow out all the lines and Winterize the spa not a good idea. A full tub will take longer to freeze. Up to you but I use small space heaters all the time while waiting for parts. They are tip proof and thermostatically controlled. Usually in some tight places. They will only run when needed once it is warm in there. Again only need a med low to low setting. Enough to keep the chill out. Use on 750V setting. Hopefully you can get it figured out.
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13 hours ago, My.User.Name said:
I was afraid of putting any sort of direct heat in there as I didn't want to crack a solider or damage
Small space heater inside the cabinet on med low will keep it from freezing and cracking plumbing.
Please do not work beyond your capabilities. If you are unsure at anytime please call a professional.
In the left hand side of where the power wires connect to the board do you get 120V white to red, 120V white to black? do you get 240V red to black?. If you do then same test on the other side of that same connection on the right side to test for power coming out of that block. Power in left power out right side to make sure the incoming wires are connected and making proper contact. Follow the red and black at the Philips screws where the wires connect to the "fingers" of the circuit board at top of photo Test the red and black wire coming from the main power block. Do you get 240v? Then test the second (yellow) set of screws. Basically follow the power. If you get this far you have confirmed power to the board.
Try and disconnect (power off) the topside phone jack from the board and see if it will run automated without the topside connected.
At this point you might want to pull the board and look on the back for darkened or burnt areas on the back.
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Balboa VS 500Z in a hot tueb
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
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Was the water actually at 109?
When you installed the heater element did you look down the tube and ensure the element was centered in the tube and not touching the sides.
Disconnect the heater from the board and lift the 2 copper tabs up so they don't touch anything then verify you get 240V off the 2 copper tabs when the heat indicator light on the topside is solid and not flickering. If you don't get 240V then you likely have a blown heater relay. Remove the board and have a look on the back for bark or burnt areas around the relays.