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CanadianSpaTech
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Posts posted by CanadianSpaTech
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Lot of water on that board. Is that the new board? Makes me question if it was dried out enough. Post updated photos of the board.
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Promo Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyaAb42R-Sg
Installation video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzZVJHCgWoM
Instructional Video (not me in the video...lol): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PwJsyOogtk
The Spa Dragon YouTube Page: https://www.youtube.com/@thespadragon6466
Hi All,
New Product Alert
Have a look and contact me by PM if you want more information on The Spa Dragon, Dealer Inquiry and Dealer Pricing. Excellent opportunity to increase sales and add to service revenue on installations. Excellent new spa sales add in to set yourself apart from competitors and close more deals. Several MFG's are now adding The Spa Dragon in at the factory.
For Consumers...
PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT!
Piece of mind if you live in a sub zero climate.
Nothing worse then looking out your window on a cold Winter day in January there is 2' of snow and it's been below zero for weeks. You haven't even looked at your spa in days and you are wondering if it's even on. The Spa Dragon will not only notify you on your smart device but there is also an LED indicator attached to the exterior of your spa for visual reference as well. If there is issue with the spa THE SPA DRAGON heater will turn on and prevent freezing. It could maintain an internal temperature in the cabinet and prevent freezing all the way until Spring in extreme situations or importantly until part's arrive to make the needed repair to your hot tub. Keeping the spa warm and preventing freeze up while waiting for parts to fix your spa is a huge benefit of THE SPA DRAGON. Not uncommon to wait weeks for parts to arrive. Example: Ordered a simple diverter cap (D1 specific.. odd size not available locally) to replace an over tightened diverter cap that cracked the threads and was spewing water everywhere preventing the spa from running online from EL Cajon California. Shipped USPS OCT. 13th and as of Oct. 29th still hasn't arrived. Sub zero temps forecast this week here in the Great White North. Not worried. Spa Dragon installed.
As a 20+ year Independent Service Technician freeze repairs due to cracked plumbing are the most expensive repairs I make. Often well into the thousands (looking at you full foam spas). Protect your investment from costly repairs.
PM @CanadianSpaTech or Contact York at THE SPA DRAGON website and tell them Kurt sent you. info@thespadragon.com
This is not my company. Yes I am a dealer and the owner is a friend. Help me help him help you...lol
Please feel free to send me a PM if you have questions.
ENJOY!
Regards CTS
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@cranbiz Yeah and 8 years later he's still in office...lol
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Would help to know if the actual water temp matches the display using a thermometer. Is the heat indicator on/off during this period?
I would test the heater for power when the heat indicator is off and see if there is a stuck relay.
Ohm test the sensors and make sure they are in range.
After the pumps have been running for a bit see if you can hold your hand on the motor. It will be hot but should not be untouchable.
Post photos of the topside the control system the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover if there is one.
Nice set up and should not have air flow issues.
Remove filters during testing. Anytime you have any issues with the spa always remove them and take them out of the equation. New used just cleaned no matter remove them. Dirty filters (even though they look clean) are a flow killer. They will slow the flow of water going through the heater and across the sensors and can cause issue.
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You replaced the circ... did it ever run with the new circ or is it new new.
Did you replace it with the same voltage (120V/230V) Likely a 230V needed. Please verify.
You might want to disconnect the heater from the board until you get things right so you don't go nuclear and burn the house down. Use a multi meter to know when you have power off the board going to the heater. Next time the circ stops when it shouldn't test for power off the circuit board going to the circ. If you have power then it's a circ issue.
As for air getting introduced into the system somehow ensure water level is not to high...or low. Jets and air injection are related to the main pumps and not related to the circ heating/filtering system/lines. see below
Poet photos of the control system, circuit board and schematic on inside cover so we are on the same page with what you have. Basing my advice on what I think you have but admittedly I have been wrong once before...lol
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3 hours ago, Sundancer01 said:
In 2 hrs, with cover closed, water temp was up to 103.
Was the spa water actually 103 tested with a thermometer?
Was the spa running a filter cycle during the time the cover was closed?
Was the heat indicator led on at all during that time? if set at 95 and below display temp of 98 it should not come on.
Cool the water down to 98 again and set it at 95 as before but open the front panel a bit to let fresh cool air in and see if you get the same results as before.
If you cycled the main power off/on just prior to your first test do it again.
6 hours ago, Sundancer01 said:issue where the temp creeps up when the jets are on.
How long were the pumps running for? a pump will generate upwards of 140 degrees when running and can elevate the water temp above set point from the inside. I can see what they are saying and this can happen if there is not enough air flow to cool the pumps. Normally a summer problem but I have seen spas overheat due to their location and blocked air flow. A lot of the internal heat is released along the top edge of the spa between the acrylic and the side panels. Heat rises. Spas sunken into decks right up to the acrylic can block air flow/release as well. Some folks will use a cover cap and they can also block heat release/air flow but rare in the cooler months.
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Looks correct. Might redo the white into the GFCI just for shits and giggles if you had it apart. Might disconnect wires from pack and test white to blk 120V white to red 120V and then red to black 240V to ensure you are getting both 120V legs = 240V to the pack. Had one this week with 120V testing good to each leg but nothing 0 red to blk. Bad GFCI. Did not trip though.
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Bad breaker that can't carry load? You could remove the pack and take the back off and look for burnt areas. Aside from that...
14 hours ago, MoodyRobot said:I also confirmed that the breaker was wired properly.
Post photos. Ensure the white wire coming from the spa goes into the GFCI and not to the neutral bar. Just the white pigtail goes to the neutral bar.
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37 minutes ago, Christopher S said:
but I can easily leave my hand on it
Your good then. Any of the capacitors bulging on top?
On 10/23/2023 at 3:14 PM, Christopher S said:3. After about 25-30 mins the pump stops then I notice the heater stops then the FLO error comes up.
4. I can immediately start the Pump 1 again by hitting Eco mode on, after a few minutes the FLO error goes off, I can then turn Eco mode off, push Pump 1, and then the heater turns back on.
If pump restarts right away then it is not a overheat issue IMO.
Keep spa in no eco mode or standard mode.
Does the pump indicator triangle on the topside stay on when the pump cuts out?
Any chance the LL or low level configuration programming number get changed by accident?
Verify you have proper voltage coming off the pack in both speeds. See link
https://www.geckodepot.com/fichiers/documentsProduits/GDA/en/Techbook_in_xe_EN.pdf
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2 hours ago, Christopher S said:
with the pump is either overheating
open the panel to get more cooling and see if it trips
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Usually a seal that sits between the jet body and the acrylic has failed. Run a bead of marine grade silicone around the jet body where it meets the acrylic.
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When you installed the element did you look through the tube and make sure the element was not touching the side wall of the tube?
Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover so we can see how it is wired
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Any darkened or burnt areas on the back
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4 hours ago, RDspaguy said:
No, I won't share the whole thing
Don't tell anyone where you got it from...lol
http://jacuzzipartners.com/knowledgelibrary/assets/pdf/681.pdf
4 hours ago, RDspaguy said:I don't recall what I signed at the seminar all those years ago
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Set the jumper logic settings to match old board. See schematic top right
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@DebKR Please start your own post/thread. Post pics of the circuit board and the schematic on inside cover of the pack. Describe Your issues.
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look to see if the flapper is missing at bottom of filter housing
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Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover if there is one so we can see what control system you have.
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Where are you located?
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On 10/21/2023 at 6:11 PM, calsap said:
Dashes and other text are flashing
What other text?
I would be changing temp sensor before capacitors.
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Is there a chance anything (kids toy, sponge, g string) got past the filters and down the hole?
At the bottom of the filter housing there should be a spring loaded flapper (Bypass valve) that is closed when the pump is on low speed and pulls water through the filter. When the pump is engaged in high speed the flapper opens and pulls the extra water need to supply the pump from the foot well suctions. The part that opens with the spring attached can break off
In both scenarios the "item" will get sucked into the face of the pump and restrict water flow. Remove the union at the face of the pump and collect your prize.
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Look at the "logic jumper settings" at the top of the schematic on inside cover
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The only other thing would be to try a new sensor set or ohm test the current set
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I see lots of leakage around the capacitors and dark areas to the right of them. I would pull the board (likely has to come out anyway) and have a look on the backside for damage. Post pics of the back.
I might try a new sensor set before a new board... but easy for me to say as I have them on my truck.
You could remove and swap the sensor wire locations from the box terminal that connects the sensor wires to the circuit board and see if you get a different result/error code.
Winterizing a Tiger River Spa
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
All you can do is disconnect everything and suck, blow and add antifreeze then hope for the best. Stopped Winterizing tubs years ago. You never know if there are one way check valves or hanging plumbing lines holding water. Cover blows open half way through Winter and fills with snow and thaws and freezes and cracks plumbing and in the Spring whet it leaks you get the call "You Winterized it you fix it" Yeah for a couple of hundred bucks...no thanks.
Hope you got it. Good Luck