Trigger

Why NOT to get a hot tub? Because a decent one will cost you $8K PLUS the cost of an electrical install, plus a pad, plust steps, plus chemicals Electrical costs will go up. Not much, but a few hundred bucks a year. After a few years you will have to replace a cover, maybe a pump or a heater. So Hot tubs do cost a lot of money. You've got to keep the water clean. Will you use it? I have been tubbin for over 7 years and still enjoy it. I've owned 3 tubs and I wouldn't spend any extra money on fancy lights (standard lights are fine,) waterfalls or any type of sound system. I have tried Silver ion systems and seen little to no improvement in my water quality. I did upgrade to a lager set of stairs and greatly enjoy them over the standard small plastic steps that came with my budget tub a few years ago. (Sturdy, safe easy to get into the tub with, looks nice). I also upgraded to a phenmatic assisted cover lifter (pro lift II) and that's been great. Makes opening and closing the tub a breeze. My wife would have a hard time with the standard style covers. My tub also uses 1 large filter (rather than several small filters) and buying an extra filter was great idea. I keep one clean and one in the tub, and swap them out when needed. Invest in some nice bath robes and a towels.

In a power outage? Doesn't everyone have a small generator? I use the Honda 2000EU Awesome machine runs for 7 hours on a fill (.6 gal) and one cord away you can't even hear it. I do now!!

If you do this don't go green and use a compact flourescent. As I think about me new generator and what I would do differently if I loose power again, I wonder if my 5500 watt generator could power the hot tub, -if i wire a transfer switch into my house, and have the generator power a subpanel, should I put the hot tub on it? Could a generator run this? Or would it be too much of a drain and I should focus on my hot water heater, lights and pellet stove. If running the tub off the generator (even for brief periods to keep the temps up) ISN'T feesable, I wonder if I should now while everything is fine and the weather is nice, place a work light into the equipment bay, and run the coord out throuh the vent tuck up and out of the way an unplugged. If I ever loose power again, I wouldn't even have to open the equipment bay, I could run a line from the generator to the work light cord. Actually, I could place a work light in the bay, wire it to a weatherproof socket that is on the outside of the equipment bay panel, and all I'd have to do is plug a line from my generator into the socket...viloa!, heated equipment bay for emergencies (Hey Watkins...not a bad feature to add to your tub.). Or am I all wet? If you really want to take an extra step I'd take the leads from the circ pump off the control panel and wire them direct to your generator and run the circ pump. It actually tranfers some heat (mostly directly to the water) and it will give you constant water flow and would be all you'd need. there ya go.

If you do this don't go green and use a compact flourescent. As I think about me new generator and what I would do differently if I loose power again, I wonder if my 5500 watt generator could power the hot tub, -if i wire a transfer switch into my house, and have the generator power a subpanel, should I put the hot tub on it? Could a generator run this? Or would it be too much of a drain and I should focus on my hot water heater, lights and pellet stove. If running the tub off the generator (even for brief periods to keep the temps up) ISN'T feesable, I wonder if I should now while everything is fine and the weather is nice, place a work light into the equipment bay, and run the coord out throuh the vent tuck up and out of the way an unplugged. If I ever loose power again, I wouldn't even have to open the equipment bay, I could run a line from the generator to the work light cord. Actually, I could place a work light in the bay, wire it to a weatherproof socket that is on the outside of the equipment bay panel, and all I'd have to do is plug a line from my generator into the socket...viloa!, heated equipment bay for emergencies (Hey Watkins...not a bad feature to add to your tub.). Or am I all wet?

Power came back on last night at 10:00 p.m. All-in-all, power was out for 3 days. Much less than what the municiple electric company had told me to expect. As advised, I covered the vents on the bottom of my equipment panel door to minimize heat loss in the equipment bay. And only quickly opened the cover very slightly once to stick my hand into the water. During the evening, temps droppped below freezing for only short periods, but nothing severe. As of last night the water was still warm. Thankfully the weather wasn't too cold. But I belive in colder weather, the tub still would have sat uneffected for seveal days. As far as the light in the equipment bay. that's actually a good idea, and with my new generator I could run a work light out to the equipment bay if this happens agains. Thanks for all the input. I appreciate it.

<br /><br /><br />Dr. Spa, Good catch on blowing out the lines. I forgot to mention that when I suggested to Trigger that he might need to reconsider draining the tub. Blowing out the lines would be a "must do" if he followed that route. gman If it came to that, I'd go fill up my portable air tank at a gas station that had power and use that to blow out the lines. As Doc says, the thermal mass of the water should be ok, it's the equipment in the front compartment that's the issue. I'll check in later this week and let you know how it worked out. I think my saving grace is the temps are going to be fairly warm during the days and no hard freezes at night.

Thanks guys. I'll plug the vent holes and keep her covered.

Hey guys Up here in New England we were hit with an early winter storm. My local electric company is saying I won't have power until the end of the week (It's been out since Early Sunday morning) I'm not sure what I should be doing with my 2007 Caldera Geneva. It's a 475 gallon full foam tub. Weather forcasts call for the days to be in the low 50's and going to 30 at night. The water is still warm as of this a.m I'm told that that a full foamed tub will be fine for a few days, but this will be without power for about 6 days with temps right on the edge. Should I keep it buttoned up and hope for the best? Or do I drain it (without power, a drain will be using the tub drain on the lower corner of the tub)? Advice?

Footie, where are you located? Covers dont last forever (I am installing a new cover on my 4 year old Caldera Geneva this weekend). But needing a new cover in only 18 months is a very short time.

I live in Central MA and have had an outdoor hot tub for several years. I agree wait a year before building the gazebo. Personally, I love having my hot tub outside fully open. For me, there is nothing better than being under the stars in the dead of winter in the tub. I am in a very seculded area, so privacy is not an issue. Yup. Shoveling snow off the hot tub is pain in the neck, and you must be careful not to damage the cover. But I still prefer the tub in the open. If privacy was an issue, or perhaps as I get older and shoveling the snow becomes more demanding I gazebo might look like a nice option. Let the tub sit outside in the snow this season and take it all in. And next year you'll have a better understanding of what you prefer.

Don't put too much emphisis on the cover. Chances are if you go the used route, you'll need a new cover sooner than later anyhow. My experience is a cover usually lasts 4-5 year...kinda of like tires on a used car. It's great if they are in good shape, but don't pass over a low milage lexus for a shiney kia because of the tires.

The only thing I am going to add is that lower end Ebay tubs and the low end thermal tubs (not full foamed) are lousy in cold climates. If you plan on having this tub outside and you are in a cold region, then get a quality tub, new, used, whatever. Otherwise your electriciy bill will be greater than what you paid for the tub. I had a used low end Thermal style tub and when the temperature dipped below 45 degrees, the electic bill shot up like a rocket.

Wow. That's too bad. DOes anyone know the price range on the limeligh pulse?

Thanks Spawn. I didn't talk specific price with my friend, but will recomend he take a look at the othe Jacuzzi models to see if they fit his price point. Absoltuely a wet test is in order. I was *shocked* at the diference in the warrenty's between the Hot Spot and Jacuzzi. The Jacuzzi is twice that of the Hot Spot. I am curious why such a difference in warrently among similliar priced tubs? As I mentioned, I am a BIG fan of the Watkins brand, but the simple difference in warrenty causes me concern. I am also surprised the Hotsprings dealer did not recomend the Tiger River Caspain, nor the Prodigy. Are thier current prices over the $8K line? I also couldn't find much information on the heaters for these and wonder aloud if that's even significant. As far as Ozone, I am inclined to belive that it does work if installed with a 24 hour circ pump. Over the past few years debating this, I've noticed a trend that advocates of O3 more often than not have a 24 circ pump, while those not noticing a significant difference do not. Any inpout to these tubs would be very much appreciated.

A friend of mine is considering upgrading his broken, no name hot tub that came with his house. He's looking for a qaulity hot tub, but wants to keep it under 8K. He want's full foam insualtion and want's quality dealer install and support. Fine with me. He is considering the Hotspot Rythem and the Jacuzzi J335. While I am a very strong proponent of Watkins, the Hotspot seems to come up short when compared to the Jacuzzi. I was wondering if other forum members had anything to add when comparing these 2 tubs? My friend likes the foot dome and seating on the Rhythm (prefers no lounger), but other than that, the 335 seems to have a better variety of jets, slighty stronger pumps, more filtration and a significantly better warrenty. Given similliar prices on these tubs, I have to recomend the Jacuzzi. It's also my recomendation that regardless of the tub, he spring for the optional CD ozinator and 24 hour circ pump Any thoughts? Am I missing anything? Thanks.

I used to have an 18 ft round above ground pool that had 8200 gallons (31000 liters) and now have a 21 round pool which is about 9100 gallons (34000 liters) Even though the bottles say they can treat larger volumes of water, I was told to use the entire contents. I haven't had any adverse effects from doing so, and my water is in great shape when I take the cover off in the spring. Maybe you could get away with using less but I don't know if the opened bottles have any type of shelf life? Consdering the winterizing chemicals cost me about $20 I just use the entire contents and not worry about it. Good luck. PS...if you are tying anything in the pool (such as the inflatable pillow, or a chlorine pack) I recomend using nylon rope or cord. Cotten rope will disengrate over the winter.

I'm not familliar with salt water systems but for an above ground chlorine pool with a sand filter what was recommended to you sounds right. You'd defintaly want to winterize with the chemicals and install a cover supported by an inflatable pillow. I'm in New england and closign the pool correctly for 6 months makes all the difference in the world come spring time. FWIW, here's what I do. Vacuum the pool. Remove the ladder. 1) I sanitize the pool with one of the closing chemicals (usually run this for 24 hours). 2) run a winterizer thru the pump (blue liquid) 3) Drain the pool down below the skimmer opening 4) Insert a cover plate over the skimmer (this prevents water into the skimmer wich can freeze and then snap your skimmer and a plug in my return outlet (prevent water from running out of the return and freezing.) 5) Disconect the skimmmer hose, and the return hose from the pump/filter 6) Drain the filter 7) Hang a chlorinator pack in the pool by running a rope across the pool and hanging the pack in the middle of the rope. 8) inflate the cover pillow (ie "the beach balls") and secure in the middle of the pool using ropes. 9) put the cover on over the pool and filter. Keep leaves and water off the cover as best as possible. I could see how the first time you go to purchase all this stuff it may seem overwhelming but It's really not that much once you have the cover and pillows and plugs (which get reused every year), once you have that it's maybe $40 in chemicals. I go to Namco and they set me up with the correct items for my pool and havne't steered me wrong. My cover has a wire cable along the perimeter that I tighten to keep it on the pool. I did buy a bunch of plastic clips to help keep the wind from getting under the cover, but when the snow get's on the cover these just pop off. Lesson: don't depend soley on the plastic clips to keep you cover on. I wouldn't drain the pool much further past the skimmer, other wise you run the risk of having the sides collapse if the cover getsheavy with a lot of snow on it. I'd also recomend a submersible pump to pump water off the cover. Other wise you'll end up getting all the dirty water and leaves that are on you cover back into your pool when you try to get the cover off (you won't be able to get the cover off if it has water on it). Good luck!

Thanks Maggie. This problem happened in the begining of the season and after a few weeks, and scrubbing and trying a magic eraser it was still there. My father in law suggested that I just leave it alone and the chlorine in the pool would take care of it. Sure nuff about 3 weeks later I noticed it was gone.

I am far from being an entomogist, but I googled water bugs and it looks like you might have what's called a "water boatman" Here's what I found: With the lack of repsonses here, I'd recomend googleing water boatman for yourself and comparing pictures of them to what you have. Once we know what type of cooties you have, we can figure out how to get rid of them. For a start Here's a site that discusses how to get rid of water boatman: http://x.havuz.org/viewtopic.php?t=521 Oh and be thankful you don't have "giant water bugs":

Just thinking out loud...I'm not familliar with Intek...didn't know they had "legs" I thought they were inflatable...anyhow on a more traditional style above ground pool, the main support posts are placed on patio blocks/pavers (while the liner et all rests on sand. Would placing patio blocks under the legs help?

I'm not familliar with the wilkes pool decking. What type of sub structure/frameing does it have? I would image some sort of aluminum framing? Would putting deck boards down be an option? I prefer the look of wood, but hate the yearly staining and upkeep. I just put up an AZEK decking next to my above ground. I choose it as it's 100% vinyl and maintence free. Excessive water from the pool wont' be an issue. It does get a bit hot in the direct sun, but I wanted a long term maintence free solution. So far I am very happy with it. If you are going to go with a man made product, I'd recomend taking a look into AZEK

Are you getting an air lock in the pump? The trick is to get the hose filled with water and placed onto the skimmer intake without introducing air into the system. I place my hand over the adapter plate as I place it into the skimmer. Every once in a while we'll get some air into the system and before we start to vacuum the pool we let it run for a few moments and make sure everything is fine.(I look down at the clear cover on the pump, over the strainer basket and ensure there is no air. Occasionally, I have to open the top of the my filter pump and "burp" the air out before I start to vacuum. does that makes sense, and do you think that's what's happening to you?

The Tiger River website has the owners manuals online in PDF format that include the wirring schematic. I would start there. I'm sure they can get you the information you need if it's not on the website. http://tigerriver.hotspring.com/index_hot_tub_spas.html

Also...how much difference/slope is there from one side of the pool to the other? I'm not very familiar with the INTEK pools, but if the slope is several inches, (enough where the skimmer is under water and the return nozzle is above water) I would be concerned of the pool frame letting go. ???

I'm a bit confused by inlet and outlet- I'm not sure if you mean inlet to pump, or inlet to the pool. I typically refer to the port that takes water into the pump as the inlet or intake, and the nozzle pumping the water back into the pool as the outlet or return nozzle. The intake to the pump via the skimmer needs to have water freely flowing into it to provide adequate water to the pump and filter. The pump should not be starved for water. The nozzle from the pump back to the pool does not NEED to be under water. FWIW, it is desireable as this flow helps circulate and move the water in the pool back into the filter. But no damage to the pump or or pool would occur, but water quality may suffer. I usually like to direct the water nozzle so that the water comming to the pool to create a "sweeping current" to help move debris into the filter. Hope that helps. Updated thoughts: you said the intake to pump was completely underwater? The ideal situation is the have the water line be about 1/2 halfway up the inlet so that surface debris will be skimmed off of the surface.