Dr. Spa

PR is Priming Mode, intended to flush any air out of the pipes.

Try running it without the filter cartridge installed. Sound like a low flow problem and the most likely culprit is a dirty/clogged filter.

How high off the ground in the crawl space vent?

Without the pump running, the heater wont operate. Most likely you need to replace at least the bad heater element (you could try disconnecting ALL wires from the element and see if it still trips). The GFCI breaker should be nearer to the spa (for ease of service). Some type of disconnect needs to be at least 5' from the water line and within visible sight from the spa. Your local municipality MAY requires a "disconnect, rather than just a breaker...may not.

Two 30amp breakers, "ganged together" as you call it, is a THIRTY amp 240 volt circuit. So, you have a 30A circuit, feeding a 60a non-gfci breaker. Has this spa ever worked since you moved in? Is it possible someone did some kind of incorrect repair in order to get the house on the market and make everything appear to be correct and operable?

They picked up the spa, at their own expense, to take it back to the shop to repair. Have you seen how it's been repaired? How can you possibly talk about the quality of the repair, before it's even been repaired? A car dealer does NOT "guarantee that you do not get a lemon"! This is a federal law. And it takes a LOT of attempted repairs, and time out of service before a can is considered a lemon. So far, on this and other message boards, everyone else thinks Bullfrog is doing a fine job backing up their warranty on spa. Sincerely, the uncredible Dr. Spa (ret)

Initially you said, " I recently heard Bullfrog knew of the faulty plastic light covers they use". Now you say, the service crew from the dealer you bought the spa told you. "they had gone to three customers in the last two weeks with the same problem". Your first statement indicates that the manufacturer is knowingly using/installing a faulty/defective product....which your second statement makes no indication of. Your second statement, which may or may not be an exaggeration, is simply a statement from the service crew that they've seen a few of these in the past few weeks. My credibility? You made, what appeared to me to be, a false accusation against the manufacturer, and I called you on it.

Well water , or city water in the spa?

The pipe coming off the top of the filter, running horizontally...the heater would be "spliced into that pipe. Water runs out the top pipe of the filter to the heater, then out of the heater to the 3 way valve on the left.

Try firmly pushing the breaker to the off position, THEN to on. Some breakers needs to be reset when they trip, and this is the process.

Normally White is common, and Black and Red are high and low. When you removed the original pump, did you change/remove and reinstall any of the wiring in the controller? Or did you just disconnect the wiring from the pump?

So you replaced a 2 speed pump (3hp / 0.375hp) with a 1 speed pump (2ho). You'll now only have HIGH speed, with no LOW speed (actually more like medium speed as the new pump is only 2hp, rather than the 3hp you originally had). Connect the red wire to the same place in the pump that the black wire is connected.

1. Jacuzzi has been making spas for some 35 years (plus other brands that licensed the Jacuzzi name). without know WHAT model and year you have, not a lot of info is going to be had. 2. Post a picture of the plug. It may in fact be a 110v plug, just something specialized that you're not familiar with.

You're lucky no one was electrocuted by the TWELVE VOLT lights? Really? Seriously? 12v? So let me see if I understand this. The light lens is leaking? They attempted two field repairs, unsuccessfully, and now they're picking it up (at their expense) to repair it to new like quality in their shop? Sounds like pretty darn good service to me! But you're right, they need to make it right. THEY NEED TO HONOR THE WARRANTY THAT CAME WITH THE SPA! They need to pick it up at their expense and fix it right! Oh, they're in the process of doing that, aren't they? A leaking light lens, while perhaps very inconvenient, I don't think constitutes a "lemon".

The light cover is leaking? And they're picking it up (at their expense) to repair it to new like quality in their shop? Sounds like pretty darn good service to me! Oh, but you did hear a rumor.

Or an old clogged filter. Or a failing circ pump...or something else, depending on the brand and model of your spa.

Retrofitted, no. Included as part of a brand new cover, yes, as long as it's something the cover manufacturer offers.

It's an insulated "flap" that runs the entire length of the hinge http://www.rhtubs.com/covers/images/seam-seal.jpg

Depends on how low the alkalinity is, and what "heat exchanger" you have.

The bromine will inactivate the Nature2

Take some pictures of the equipment and the control panel.

For SEVEN days (NO longer), twice a day (morning and evening) put in 1 teaspoon of granular chlorine per 250 gallons of water.

Spas are designed to sit flat on the ground, supported completely underneath. If you try to support it by the rim, it will crack and break and be destroyed.

You should never OVER chlorinate a wooden hot tub (chlorine is a halogen and will eat away the wood....but ozone will eat away the wood above the water line much quicker)...but used properly it's the best way to sanitize a wooden hot tub.

Ozone by itself will do very little to sanitize the tub. Additionally, it will eat away and deteriorate the wood above the water line (additionally, after 2 years your ozonator is probably not producing ozone anymore). You need to be using chlorine for sanitizing, as well as to bleach out the tannins. Where did the tub come from??