PoolsRMyLife

Hi SquashPro. I've installed all of these. Yes, sales people (aka professional liars), will say anything. I have high regard for all these products. Wet Edge rocks do come from the same mines as Pebble Tec. Their agreement states that their marketing cannot say this however-and they are different companies. My company was one of the first in the country to use Wet Edge. We've had good results, as expected. We have found that Pebble Fina and Wet Edge Altima or Luna Quartz are NOT recommended for rolled or raised bond beam or water features which will not be 100% submerged all the time. Keep this in mind if you your pool has these features as the sales staff may "forget" to tell you. Also, keep in mind, the color has a lot to do with what color the pool water will "cast off". Colors with a fair amount of yellow rock will give a green pond type look to the water. Colors with black, gray, white, plum, will give a blue-gray look to the water. Some of my clients (as I was the Construction Manager and got the customer after the sale) said they wished they would have known this before color choice with the sales staff. Yes, the sales staff often conveniently "forgot" to go over this with the client I would visit some referrals by the companies that gave you bids. Talk to the owners, and get input. Check out each company with BBB and State Contractors Board for complaints. Consider what warranty is offered. Is the company a warranty station or is warranty through a sub-contractor? If so, get sub-contractors license # and check them out. Just do your homework. Hope this helps

Based on your description, it sounds like you need to clean the filter. If you haven't done this before, you may want to call a pro. If you want to tackle it yourself, you probably want to have a new tank o'ring and DE on hand. Also, be careful with the drain plug. They sometimes break easily if they are old. When you get the filter top off, you will see the grids. If you are not sure if you are comfortable getting the grids removed from the top and bottom manifolds, cleaned, inspected for tears/replaced, and reassembled, then you want to stop and call a pro. I can't tell you how many calls I get saying, "I can't reassemble my DE filter." Hope this helps.

The blower is two-stage. First stage is pre-ignition. Second stage is post-ignition. Keep in mind on this heater there is a delay after lighting before the second stage of the blower kicks in. Do not confuse this for not lighting and turn it off. Also, if heater hasn't been used in awhile, the heater will stop trying to ignite after three tries. You will need to turn it off, then on again to reset it. The symptom you are describing could be a flame sensor too. It will light, then shut right off. The flame sensor is not sending a signal that it senses flame for the gas valve to open all the way-which then sends a signal to the blower to start stage two. You need to check all controls (one at a time) before you blame the blower. Error codes (especially on this heater) are not always accurate. If you see evidence of water damage (calcium) on any of the controls, that control will be suspect. The switch you are describing in your number 2 sounds like a vacuum sensor.

I've tried it twice with poor results.

I've installed just about every brand heater. Pentair/Sta-Rite Max-E-Therm usually work well. The bigger companies who do a lot of installs will have longer parts and labor warranties (usually). Here in the southwest we offer 3yr parts AND labor on these installs. I would go with a 400K BTU. You will need a 250-500 gallon propane tank installed as well (per local codes). I would also recommend you use a cover on your pool to keep as much heat in as possible.

I'm curious as to why a timer wasn't included with the pool package? Did you owner-build this pool? In any case, if you haven't installed timers before, call a pro.

You may want to back up a little bit here by giving some backround on the pool. What type of in-ground pool, i.e. fiberglass, steel frame...etc. Remember we are good, but haven't mastered reading minds yet.

Thanks AFiremanFirst. I wasn't aware that plumbing was removable. LOL

The only time I've seen this switch is on a two-speed motor. The switch is to toggle between hi an lo speed if you don't have automation. If this is a new replacement motor (or pump), it should state both horsepower ratings on the label....i.e, 1/3 HP to 2HP. Also, if the electric wiring to the old motor is 4-wire, then it is a two-speed. If it is 3-wire, then you have the wrong replacement motor.

Depending on the length of the pool, I've built sport pools 3' or 3.5' on the ends and 5' in the middle. That way a sport net can be put across the middle for water volleyball. The pool builder must maintain no greater than a 1 in 7 slope. For every 1 foot of depth change it requires 7 feet of length. Diving pools have different rules. So, for example a 3' by 5' by 3' pool must be a minimum of 28'(best if 32 feet or longer so pool floor doesn't seem like a ski slope) long if the 5' depth is in the middle. Also, if the pool is greater than 5' in depth, it must have a bench or ladder (point of egress) so swimmers can exit that area (by building code). All depths mentioned are water level depths (not deck to surface depths). I hope this helps.

Are you talking a two-speed motor?

Northstar Pumps have a new-style lid with a T-shaped o'ring that sometimes is required before the pump will prime. Also, make sure if you replaced the suction-side union, the o'ring didn't slip out. If you didn't replace the Jandy valve(s) on the suction side of the pump, sometimes air can get in thru the old o'rings. If all the above is done, try removing the filter internals and see if the pump primes. If so, dirty filter internal are the problem.

No, you must replace the whole multi-port valve. It is all one molded piece. I've done many of these. It's best to get a pro.