ny poolguy

No problem,I'll send you a bill

Just a little advice. Put the door back on before trying to fire the heater or at very least don't kneel directly in front of it. Nobody looks good with singed eyebrows and eyelashes!

More they likely the spider webs are clogging one or more of the gas orifices. At least the one for the burner the hot surface ignitor sits over. Bend a paperclip open making it look like the letter J and use that to clean out the orifices(with the heater off). They are the five little nipples on the gas rail in front of the burner tubes. That's the problem or the the hot surface ignitor is bad. It's located over the center burner. Ether way the flame sensor is not sensing a flame and it's locking out giving the IF code.

Any valves in or out of the booster pump that might be malfunctioning? Sometimes a gate valve will stick shut or part way open even though the handle is spun all the way opened. The only other thing I can think of would be a clogged or collapsed line. Hook up a garden hose to the output of the booster and test the pressure. Or even adapt your Polaris fitting to use with the hose. If it works fine,it's a bad line after the pump.

Was it the booster or filter pump that the parts were changed on? I'd first make sure the impeller on the booster pump isn't clogged. The openings in the impeller are small and can clog easily. You can use a paper clip to clean them out. Or if it was run dry the impeller could have slightly melted and is slipping.

I've always heard it kill grubs. Guess it could cut up worms too or any bug that crosses over some D.E.

If your able to backwash no problem,it sounds like a valve isn't opened between the filter and the returns. Or,there are winterizing plugs still in the returns.

Yes,you will need to keep shocking until you start getting a chlorine reading,but as PaulR suggested you'll need a good test kit. Without knowing things like ppm(parts per million)of combined chlorine or stabilizer,it's like working in the dark. Your pH is a little on the low side,but ok for now. You may need to adjust your total alkalinity too.

I agree with Polyvue. Your going to need more then a 1hp to have enough power for the pool,spa,and water feature. A Pentair Intelliflo(a multi-speed pump)might be a good choice for your needs. I also would prefer a two pump system. Maybe a 1hp for the pool and water feature(w/a valve to control flow to each)and a 1 1/2 or 2hp for the spa,but with out seeing the way things are plumbed I'm not sure if that's a choice you have. Also,those disks on the floor are likely a caretaker system. They are returns that push dirt on the floor down to the main drain in the deep end where it's sucked up.

Whisperflo is a good pump. I like Hayward's super pump and super II pump as well. A 1hp pump should work fine for your size pool. How many suction and return line does the pool have and is the pump very far from the pool?

If the pool has a liner I would not recommend draining and refilling it. There's a good chance you'll be buying a new liner. If it's a gunite pool it's ok.

Are you sure about 4000 gallons? Because even a 12' by 28' pool is about 12500 gallons.

Chem geek,I attended a BioGuard seminar in 2005 and this is what their product book states. It's Sodium tetra borate pentahydrate In application instructions it states: Use approximately 1lb. of Lo'n Slo for for every 2lbs. Optimizer Plus added. Hope this helps.