SHOWEM

First thing I would do is check for loose connections

Esthetically it would look better. If you do bury it you could have it come up right next to the tub and then change over to a LB and then through the side of the tub/skirt and then change over to liquid tite the rest of the way

I changed my service from 100a to a 200a no permit. A service change in my area is you start at the weather head,meter socket,panel and everything in between.The service needs to be up to the new code but not the whole house doesn't!! All your branch circuits that leave that panel is a seperate issue. You start at upgrading your service and start from there. So just to be clear the branch breaker (tub) and not the main breaker(100) tripped like I said from the beginning. Have a good one and good luck!

I'm sorry, but almost ALL of this information is incorrect. You would NOT trip the breaker for the tub! We're talking about overloading the entire system ,which would trip the MAIN breaker. Breakers should not be used regularly as disconnect switches (they're not designed for this, and would wear out quite prematurely doing so)...not to mention, what a PITA it would be. Additionally, I've seen where upgrading the main panel from 100amp to 200amp can run from $2000 - $3500. I can easily see being able to afford a spa, but NOT, when there's an additional $2000+ needed to upgrade the main panel With all do respect your figures are way off! Your figures on a new service upgrade are before the economy went south! The odds of all those heavy loads, dryer,stove,ac,water heater running at peak load is low. To be honest if he has all of those now I'm surprised he hasn't had problems already.

Worse case you'll trip the 50a breaker for the tub not the main. If you do use it in the summmer when your ac is on I would shut the ac breaker off while your using your tub. If you can afford a tub and not changing out your service from a 100 to a 200a then with all due respect I think you have your priorities messed up?

I believe the cameo competes with the D1 californian but either way both tubs are in the 10K range give or take which is just too much coin for me, nice tubs though!

I've been looking at D1 tubs and wet tested a chairman and a sundance cameo both very nice tubs but a little out of my price range. Any opinions on the aurora? I haven''t wet tested one yet. Would like to get some feedback from people. Thanks in advance

I take it your a salesman that competes against Dimension one!! Your statements are so off base!

Thanks for all the good input. I'm going to stick with the D1 Chairman

I was told that some brands, the filters are more expensive than others. Yes I'm looking at new and yes these are 3 brands I am looking at

Current NEC does require bonded mesh (bonded rebar ties together is ok) for portable spa/hottub installations. Many if not most jurisdictions are ignoring the requirement, but some are holding homeowners to it. You should heed your local inspector. The requirement addresses potential stray voltage hazard, which is very rare but there are cases. Because the requirement is considered onerous and the hazard is uncommon, NFPA (owners of the NEC) are currently considering an amendment that will remove the requirement for portable spas. The bonding requirement really affects people that are installing or replacing spas on existing slabs that don't have the mesh or rebar in place. I don't know if the requirement has been relaxed yet. In any case, final authority always lives with the local building department. Even if NEC removes the requirement, your local jurisdiction may not or may take a long time to do it. You can put wood (such as decking) on the slab under the spa and out to the 3' perimeter requirement to get around the requirement, but that can add $$. Since you're pouring the slab, it shouldn't be much of a problem put in the mesh and bond it or just use the rebar. Unless your inspector is a jerk, he'll probably tell you what your building department will approve if you ask him. Just for future reference what article in the NEC states bonding rebar/mesh in pads for portable tubs/pools? Thanks in advance In NEC 2008, the relevant sections are 680.26 and 680.42. The requirement applies to spas we typically refer to as "portable", because they are not "cord and plug" and/or typically drained after each use. Here is a link to the amendment that changes the (nutty) equipotential grid requirement. I don't know the approval status, however even if approved that doesn't mean that local authorities are obligated to honor the change. You always have to do what the local inspector says. http://www.nfpa.org/Assets/files/AboutTheCodes/70/ProposedTIA1005NFPA70.pdf Your going by the 2008 edition. How about the 2011 edition? With all due respect you are misleading people about: "you do what the local inspector says" Are you a license electrician? You can go in front of the state board and file a complaint against the local inspector if you feel you are right. One more issue, I don't think you had the right to line through my statement I made in a previous post. Let people use there own judgement. One more point,the GFI is there for a reason! Have a nice day!

Just wanted to get some feedback on the filtering systems of the 3 major brands. The cost of filters,maintaining,etc. Thanks in advance

Current NEC does require bonded mesh (bonded rebar ties together is ok) for portable spa/hottub installations. Many if not most jurisdictions are ignoring the requirement, but some are holding homeowners to it. You should heed your local inspector. The requirement addresses potential stray voltage hazard, which is very rare but there are cases. Because the requirement is considered onerous and the hazard is uncommon, NFPA (owners of the NEC) are currently considering an amendment that will remove the requirement for portable spas. The bonding requirement really affects people that are installing or replacing spas on existing slabs that don't have the mesh or rebar in place. I don't know if the requirement has been relaxed yet. In any case, final authority always lives with the local building department. Even if NEC removes the requirement, your local jurisdiction may not or may take a long time to do it. You can put wood (such as decking) on the slab under the spa and out to the 3' perimeter requirement to get around the requirement, but that can add $$. Since you're pouring the slab, it shouldn't be much of a problem put in the mesh and bond it or just use the rebar. Unless your inspector is a jerk, he'll probably tell you what your building department will approve if you ask him. Just for future reference what article in the NEC states bonding rebar/mesh in pads for portable tubs/pools? Thanks in advance

Thats because it is not required! The mesh is to reinforce the cement pad. Mesh in a permanent inground pool reinforces the pool but also is a PART of the pool that is why it needs to be bonded/grounding. With all due respect the inspector is WRONG. Is he new on the job? The hot tub is also PORTABLE NOT PERMANENT. Permanent has different requirements than a portable installation. This is the inspectors way of saying: I DON'T WANT YOU DOING THE WORK HIRE PROFESSIONALS!. Just my opinion, good luck.

What do you have, a GFI breaker at the panel and then just a weatherproof disconnect outside by the tub? What brand is the GFI?

I have wet tested the chairman,cameo,optima but not a HS model yet. I really like the chairman but the price is up there. What models from HS and Sundance would you compare with the chairman? Appreciate all opinions good,bad? Thanks in advance

Looks real nice! Where is the disconnect/service switch for the tub?

When I'm ready to buy my tub I was planning on doing the same thing. Dig out 6" of gravel frame it out with 2x6 pt 8'x8' size. Pack it down with gravel and stone dust and then lay cement pavers down. I am planning on building a deck roughly 1-2' around the tub and bringing the deck right up to the start of the shell roughly 2-3" from the top. I was planning on installing lattice around the deck but making it easy to remove by sliding it up and out to get to the tub especially the control side. I would have some wide steps (2) on one side also . To finish it off I am going to build a gazebo roof over the whole deck and installing a pair of speakers and some 12v recess lighting under the gazebo roof.

Hello SHOWEM, The main and pretty much only difference between the Diplomat and the Chairman, is the Massage Sequencer Control on the Chairman. This system allows for 6 programmable hydrotherapy massages, it is a really cool system. The Diplomat and Chairman both have the Ultrapure Water management System and both have option for the LFX lighting package. They are both very solid spas and you should wet test them both, the parts and the warranties are exactly the same. Let me know if you need and additional details or if there is anything else help with, you cant go wrong with either of these spas. Thanks for considering D1 Spas D1Dennis2009 What kind of sequencer control do you have on the diplomat? I did wet test the chairman along with a hot springs tub and liked the chairman. Is there a better time of the year to buy a tub? What is the price difference between the 2 along with adding the LFX package? Thanks

Is there a big difference between the two? What is the price difference? I have wet test the chairman and really like it but a bit pricey. Thanks in advance

Just wondering if anyone knew if the chairman tub has changed? Any improvements? Thanks

What is this new feature from D1 coming out Jume 15th? There calling it shadow FX?? Thanks

Bad choice of words (lower end) on my part. That's what I really meant to say that thay have less features. Getting back to my point,all 3 companies have 3 levels of spas offering different features. I am simply comparing a tub from each company in the middle of their lineup per say. As far as the price of a californian one dealer said that if one of their stores had one already in stock he gave me a price of $9K. Not sure if he was blowing smoke??

The WAYFARER is the lower end of the D1 series. The 3 I picked were in the middle of their respected brands. Right?

I appreciate everyone's input on the subject and I have it down to 3 models. I'll be wet testing 2 of them this weekend Limelight FLAIR Sundance HAMILTON D1 Californian As you can see I like a lounger. Efficiency,lighting,waterfall and price are important also. Thanks again