seabright_sc

Yep, That's the method I used (according to demo). I'll try it again today. Here's a simple question. What's MPS? Here's another question.... How critical is it to monitor CC? I read the owner's manual (hotspring) and there is a lot of info on water chemistry, but no mention of CC.... just FC. Thank you!

I am buying another kit for my neighbor (who is old and is 'afeared a them internets') - did you have a good experience getting your kit from these guys? It's literally half what I paid for it at the local guys here in Denver, so I'd love to get it from their website.... -PKil Yes, I just ordered it on last week and it arrived yesterday. Shipping was around $8.

New to spas and on the advice given on this forum, I went out and purchased a Taylor k-2006 test kit. I went through my initial round of testing and a couple of questions came up. For the time being I've using dichlor (daily) and non chloring shock (weekly) Alk- 110 Calcium 170 (Should I be adding a little de-scaler once a week or so?) Ph- 7.6 Chlorine.... here's where the question comes up. I tested once using a 25 ml sample and it came up as 14.4 ppm (free) Combined was 3.2ppm This seemed high as we had only put in 2 tsp of diclor 2 hours earlier after a one person 30 minute soak so I tested again this time using a 10 ml sample (so I wouldn't use so much R-0871drops). Second test 9.5 free (I did not repeat cc test). Test strips, which I know are not as reliable, indicated around 1-3ppm. This is what I would have suspected. So I'm wondering if I am adding too much R-0871 drops. At first, after adding two tiny scoops of the powder, sample water was dark pink. After adding some drops, sample went from dark pink, to clear with a pinkish hue. I am not sure if I should have stopped there and got a FC reading But I continued dropping in R-0871 until sample was completely clear. Not sure if this was correct, but if not, then it accounts for why my FC reading was higher than anticipated. Or maybe the strips are wayyyyyyy out of whack and there was much more FC than I imagined there would be. I'm new (obviously) and just trying to figure this out! Thanks for any guidance and tips on how to obtain accurate readings!

Lots of good info and I have another question. Yep, looks like I need to add more dichlor on a daily basis. And once I receive test kit in the mail, I may switch to bleach method. But for the time being if I do ass about 5+ teaspoons of dichlor after each use, the ppm shoots up above 10, then drops for next use. Question... How is that different from Shocking? I thought shocking was raising the levels to above 10 and should be done about one or twice per week. Can someone help me understand this? Thanks!

Whoa! Good to know! I was simply estimating by the recommended amounts that were listed on the owner's manual. Thanks!

I've ordered a Taylor test kit, but until then, I've been using strips. Ph seems to be in check along with alk. 300 gallon HS tub, no ozone I've been adding about a teaspoon spoon of dichlor after each soak. Water seems clear and fine. Although I notice that when I test 24 hours later, strips read 0 or close to it for chlorine. But when I add much more than a teaspoon, the reading is super high (above 10ppm), it drops so maybe that amount is ok and I should be adding more than a teaspoon after each use. Thoughts? Now the non-chlorine shock question. I've added this twice (after about a week of daily use) and after adding it (per instructions, based on 1 oz. for 600 gallons), the water turns very cloudy with foam (foam while jets are on only). Last time this cleared up after a 2 or three days. It's still cloudy after two days of shocking and we'll see if it clears. I know that the Taylor kit will get me rolling in the right directions. I may go for the Chlorine then bleach method. But for the time being what gives? How much diclor should be added (approx.) to a 300 gallon tub being used by 2 adults for about 45 min. a day? Is it normal to add more than 10ppm so that the level for next use will be in the suggested use range of 3-5ppm? I thought 10ppm+ was only for your weekly shock. How about the cloudy water after non-chlorine shock? Thanks for the guidance.

Here's a question for hotspring dealers/techs or those in the know.... Are older hotsprins (circa 1990s) as effeciaent as the new ones? I know that the older ones have fewer jets and pumps with less horse power and I wonder if this equates to less energy use than the newer models? Does the full foam insulation tend to keep it's insulating value over time, or does it degrade? I've been wondering if my older Prodigy (1996) is going to be as efficient as a newer model.

Great Topic. The real question to figuring out cost is how many Kw hours your tub uses per month. Hotspring states that with my climate, I should use about 195 KW hours per month. Sure there are variables. In nor cal, our utility, PG&E has a tiered system for electric rates. So ya, your tub gets real expensive if you go into teir 3 and 4- even if you have an efficient hot tub. Based on Hotspring data and my electricity usage/rates. My 96 HS prodigy should run about $25-40 per month. (That would be cut in half if I never went over baseline usage.) Time will tell if this is accurate. But here's one for you if you have the data: Avg. KW hours per month for tub: ____ Type of Tub (make model year):____ Location or Avg. Temp.:___ It'd be interesting to see how much power our tubs are using as opposed to what they cost to run per month.

Ya, ya I know test kits are better and yes the wife and daughter are capable, but the won't deal with one. So, I'm interested in the most reliable test strips.

While I know drops are more accurate, I'd like to get my wife and teenager involved in a little water maintenance and I know strips are the place to start with them. What strips do you recomend (most accurate) that include: Alk PH Chlorine Hardness Anything else I'm missing? recommendations for online retailers? Have you compared strip results with drop kits? Thanks

Thanks to Peteyboy and everyone else who posted on this on. Ended up being the thermister and the high limit thermister was also replaced as a precautionary measure. Since y'all helped me narrow it down, I was able to pass that info along to this incredible hot tub guru who pin pointed the poblem and fixed it for under $100. The gentleman I purchased the tub from offered a 30 day so he'll be covering it. Finally my wife's Christmas gift is up and rollin' and we'll be soaking tonight!

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The saga continues... I'm hoping a certified hot tub tech can come up soon... but I've got an update.... So I cut the power for a couple of days... turned it back on.... I hear the Click! as I adjust the heat! The water temp. raises almost ten degrees then stabilizes (around 90). But eventually, No heat being emmitted, no click either (may a couple of hours later). So I cut the power again for 45 minutes then turn it on! Yes the click and heat have returned! So this problem is driving me a little crazy, heat and thermostat seem to work for a while. Then no click no heat. Power is cut for a while and then it starts heating upon power up.

Apparently When I thought I was hearing the click on the temp dial... I probably wasn't. The gentleman I purchased the hot tub came out and took off cover plate, and reassembled and did get the thermostat to click. We thought we we're set! We got the temp to raise from 74 to 78. Then it just stayed there and stopped rising. And now we don't hear that click again! Just a thermostat? Any thoughts? Thank you!

Thank you for the tips, I will pass them on to the gentleman who I purchased the tub from. He's standing by his word and will be coming out to take a look. One interesting point: The temp, originally 68, has risen to 74 and has remained there. Not sure is this means some heat is being produced.

As far as I can tell the circ. pump is pushing water. No power light flashing. Yes, I can hear the t-stat (very slight click as I turn the dial). The dial is now set close to 9 (after no heat at 6) Jump the flow switch? I have killed the power for 30 seconds and started it back up. Not sure if that is jumping the flow switch. The guy who I purchased the tub from is coming out tomorrow. He works with many different hot tubs and is not HS specific so I'm trying to help point him in the right direction.

Ok... I bought my wife a nice little prodigy for Christmas off a guy from Craigslist who refurbishes, and resells with delivery and 30 day warranty. Hot tub was up and running when I purchased it. It took a couple of weeks to deal with the electrical (dedicated 120) and reinforcing the deck, but I finally filled it last night. New filters, summer mode off, jets work, circ pump works, power light on, refilled per instructions. All ok except for no heat. Summer mode off. After 4 hours of no temp increase (temp set to 6). I read the instructions about resetting the hight limit thermostat so I turned flipped the power at the breaker, waited a minute, flipped it back on... (this original heater does not have a reset button on the heater itself) Yes! I could hear the click when I turned the temp dial (it happened around 4 or five) and I NOW thought I could feel a little heat from where the ozone bubbles were emitting. Temp set to 6. This morning, about 10 hours later, the temp had risen from 68 to 74. I thought... It's on it's way! So I get home from work today and check the temp..... damn..... still 74! So in an effort to try something new, I cut the power, but turned the temp off first. After powering back up I now noticed that the click happened at a lower setting on the dial (not sure if this is a coincidence or not). I set the heat a little higher this time... closer to nine. It's been another two hours and the temp is still 74 and I still do not feel any signs of heat coming from that outlet where the ozone emits.. not even the slightest. Our outside temp has been from 40 to 65 in the last 24 hours. I called the gentleman who sold the hot tub and he did not have any ideas, and now I'll call him back... but I'm hoping someone can help shed light! Thank you!

I'd be concerned if there is any chance rodents can get under it. While its only an inch or two deep and shouldn't effect insulation much, especially where you live, you do not want anything nesting in there. If you talk to a local Hot Spring dealer you can see about getting what they use (a simple to use type of 2-part epoxy) when they have to replace that hardcoat on the bottom. Not really any chance of rodents entering that area. Though I did, upon very close inspection, notice some rodent droppings in the equipment compartment with a bit of chewed up foam from long ago. No wire damage and the critters are long gone. Hope they didn't cause too much damage!

New owner here.... I just purchased a 1996 Hotspring Prodigy for my wife that appears to be in really clean condition. The shell is immaculate, redwood skirt refinished, and comtrol compartment very clean. I bought it off Craigslist from a guy who refurbishes, delivers, and offers a warranty. The spa was up and running when I purchased it and it is currently empty at my house as we are reinforcing the deck that it will be placed on this weekend. When the tub was delivered (and up on it's side), I noticed that some of the foam insulation on the bottom was ripped out. It appeard to be about mayby 9-12 inches in diameter and an inch or two thick. There appeared to to no water damage and when I asked the man who sold me the spa, he said it may have been torn during delivery at some point. It didn't look major, but was clearly noticable. So... does this warrant concern or repair? Id so, how should I repair it? We live in the mild climate of the Central California coast and the hot tub will be set on a deck raised above the ground. Thanks!

Well I bought a nice used little Hotspring Prodigy. It's older, 1996. but it was refurbished by this guy who picks up good used models, fixes, and sells on CL. It was a single owner, under a covered porch it's whole life one location from a mild climate. It has the original reicipt and paper work. He also included delivery a 30 day warranty and tech support should I need it in the future. It's super clean and functions perfectly. The control department was clean and dry with no signs of leaks. There was no sign of leaks or any water damage/moisture around the exterior base either. My wife is going to be stoked! I do have a couple of questions: How can I tell if the filters need replacing? When is it time to buy a new cover? Any other tips or suggestions? Thank you!

Ok... the jetsetter I found, no go for me... the owners cant provide a wet test. So I found a very clean 1996 Hotspring Prodigy from a guy who buys, refurbishes and resells on CL. Central CA coast mild climate. Here's the deal... Very very clean, newer cir pump. no leaks, fully functional, outside refinished, wet test fine, functions as should. He will provide a 30 day warranty. steps, chemicals, cover seems fine (he says cover is good for another 2-3 years). Price... 1500 delivered! (Delivery alone is $250-300 in my area). The price is right (or is it for an old hotspring?) and a warranty (even though it's only 30 days) is nice. But tell me... Am I better off holding out for something newer? Is the energy efficiency just as good on the older models? Do newer models have any must have features or reliability that I should hold out for? Can the 1996 models switch from 120 to 240? Again... thank you to all for helping with my first hot tub and a limited budget?

You really need to see it running. A tech cannot inspect or test spa without water in it. I would be concerned with it being empty for a year and a half. Where do you all live? Snow country? I live in the mild climate of the central ca coast.

After lots of research and limited space in our yard, I decided to find a used hotspring jetsetter or something similar. Details: Jetsetter purchased in 8/03 with receipt, Original asking price- $2500. They recently lowered it to $2000 Single owner appears to be in very good condition and it's been empty for about a year since the owners moved into a new house with a previous hotspring hot tub. It does not include cover lifter, stairs or filters. Sight (very) moss growing on around the interior top edge and pillow. (Is this easy to clean off?) Owners said that the cover is about 1.5 years old and the spa was serviced at that time (then they moved a few months later) The pump was replaced under warranty along with the ozonator (a couple of times). The maintenance records were just requested for the Hotspring dealer and should be in hand shortly. The add said they could fill and show it is fully functional. But I guess the new house doesn't have the appropriate plug. So they said that if I took it home and it did not fully function, that I could return it. I have not asked if they would split or cover the cost of repair (assuming it's not a big repair) if needed as opposed to returning, but I intend to. The couple seems honest and straightforward. I'm very interested because I intend to give my wife a hot tub for christmas and it's not like there are a ton of used Jetsetters out there. But they do come up for sale in my area from time to time. I'm a little hesitant to offer a full $2000 especially since I can't see it running, though it does seem like a fair price. However, they are supposedly going to furnish maintenance records from Hotspring. What is a fair offer in your opinion or should I turn down a hot tub that I can't see running? Thank you in advance for helping with this big decision!

Yep, I think I may take out that little planter which will give me another 2 feet.... which is quite And yes, that spigot is in the way! It's for the fire sprinklers! It's still gonna be tight accessing that panel. How much space is needed? Thanks again for all the help. Looks like me wife is gonna get a hot tub for christmas!

Ok, I checked out a 2003 Hotspring Jetsetter and I think I may purchase it. The dilemma now is where to put it. We have a deck with plenty of space, but it is wide open, no privacy and I would most likely have to reinforce it. So I'm thinking of my side patio which is actually an ideal location since we seldom use it and it sits right off of a sliding glass door.... But the fit is tight. Please click on link to see a pic of the area: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3088...p;id=1420681099 http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3088...p;id=1420681099 (for the life of me I could not figure how to post pics directly.) Here are the concerns: The patio is is made of free floating arizona flagstone of various size pieces set in pea gravel (probably about 6 inches thick)... So first, I need to know if this base will work for the Jetsetter (a small hot tub with a max weight of about 2800 lbs). Next.... tight space! The Jetsetter measures 6"10" x 5'2" Looking at the picture, the hot tub would be only about 6 inches off that back fence (where the painting is), all the way next to the house (with about an inch to spare) and right up against that planter on the right. There would be about 24 inches on the right side of the pic from the edge of the planter(and hot tub) to the side fence. Essentially there would only be one truly unobstructed access (north side closest to where the pic was taken), the east side of hot tub would be only an inch from the house, south side only six inches out from the back fence, and the west side would have about 2 feet (though that planter/vine would be there). Yes, the fit is tight but the location does offer a lot of privacy and easy access to the house. I could remove that little planter, but we have a nice established vine that adds to the privacy. I kind of figured with the Jetsetter, being such a small model (and 110v), we could easily move to hot tub should it need servicing. But I have never owned a spa and not sure if I'm over optimistic. I really want to surprise my wife with a hot tub for christmas and hope this works. If not... looks like I'm waiting till summer and reinforcing my deck. I just don't have the experience or knowledge first hand to know if this spot , while not entirely ideal, would work at all. Sorry for the long post and thank you for the support.