lkneisler

FLC probably means the pressure switch was found to be stuck closed. If the pump is off and there's no water flow, the pressure switched should be open, so if it's closed then the spa knows something is wrong and you get the error. FLO is vice versa - open when it should be closed. open = no continuity closed = continuity Disconnecting the wires from the pressure switch is the same as having no continuity. So that's why you then get the FLO error. I'm not familiar with your spa, so I don't know what your pressure sensor / switch looks like. If there's an adjustment on the pressure switch then you can turn a little dial, backing it off some, and see if the FLC error goes away. Too much though and you'll get the FLO error - so little adjustments. Otherwise I'd say replace the pressure sensor/switch. If you have two wires that connect to the pressure switch - with the pump turned on - you can stick a paperclip between the two ends - closing the circuit so-to-speak - and the heater should kick on within a few seconds. Then you know it's definitely the pressure switch that needs to be replaced.

What's the manufacture year of your spa? There might be a page in the manual, toward the back, that shows details for jumper settings on the PC Board.

So, what happened!?!?

So your spa is NOT heating? I suggest calling a technician, this stuff is dangerous and you can electrocute yourself. First thing is to use a voltage meter and confirm if the the heater element leads are getting power or not. The heater element has two posts that come from heater assembly (metal tube) into the control box either from the bottom or the rear of the box. If power is going to the heater element but you're not getting heat then shut off the spa and replace the element. If power is NOT going to the heater... let me know. I have to go to church right now!

Sounds like you all set then! Yes, high jets and heat all at the same time. And yes, econ means heat only when filtering. Enjoy your spa!

Some Freeflow spas have a big whirlpool jet. It doesn't come out like the other ones - I mean it can come out, but not like how you take the other ones out. It's obviously bigger than the other jets, so you'd know if that's the whirlpool. But you should be able to turn the face of the jet clockwise and counter-clockwise to make it go on and off. However... it could be stuck cos of calcium build up or something - since it probably never gets used. It doesn't sound like that's causing a problem though.

FINALLY! I knew Jacuzzi spas had a tub with a 2 button balboa top side http://www.jacuzzihottubs.com/request-broc...ESSENCE1999.PDF Does this look/act like your top side? And thanks for confirming mrfixit, there are, in fact, no options for modes or filter cycles.

I forgot to add... if there are two sensors that go in to the heater assembly; like there are holes in the assembly that the sensors go in to, where they contact the water, then I believe you may have to replace them both.

The Freeflow spa manual says "HH" is an overheat error; the spa thinks it's over 117 degrees (or something close to that). That would be the hi-limit sensor that's on or in the heater assembly. I'd replace that before anything else cos it's way cheaper!

If you haven't already shut the power off and back on, then by all means give it a try. When there's a flow error and the problem gets resolved the spa is supposed to work itself out within a minute or two, but it doesn't hurt the spa to shut it off, take the filter out, turn the power back on and see what happens. You want to make an adjustments to the pressure switch when you can confirm the water flow is good and the switch is staying closed (no continuity). Hope this helps!

If your spa is getting up to temp, AND the digital display shows the correct temp, AND the heat light goes on and off as it should; showing that the temp sensor works, AND it's not in filter cycle, then there's no reason why the motor should keep running. If the top side is working right then I don't think that's the problem, but you can always unplug it and see if anything changes. By default you should still get your 2 hour filter cycle twice a day and temp default is (I believe) 100 degrees. ...which only leaves the PC board. Even if something were wrong with the motor the pc board is what's sending it power. If the pc board is sending power to the motor when the motor doesn't need to be running then the board got scrambled and needs to be fixed or replaced. Can anyone confirm what I'm saying or perhaps offer some nuggets of wisdom here? I'm very curious myself.

You should have a 2-speed pump (the main #1 pump) and the low speed will kick on when the spa needs to heat or filter. Standard mode: low speed will kick on any time the spa needs to heat to stay at your set temp. Low speed will also kick on to filter twice a day for two hours (default). Econ mode: low speed will kick on to run the filter cycle twice a day for two hours (default) and the heater will only go on while it's filtering if it needs heat. Did you have an electrician do your hook up? What amp breaker do you have on your main panel and disconnect for the spa? If it's a 50 amp breaker then you can run both pumps on high speed and the heat can be on all at the same time. Just check to see if the PC board has an amp setting (jumper) and that it's correct for whatever size breaker you have. A 20 amp breaker means you can not have high speed plus heat at the same time.

we get no error message at all, just the spa in a constant " filter mode " Is the spa getting up to the temperature you have it set to?

Maybe you can find your manual through here - or something with the same top side control http://www.rhtubs.com/spa-owners-manuals.htm When your spa is running you said the heat light goes out even though it hasn't got up to temp? Is there anything on the display; error codes like "FLO" or "Sn3" ?

I don't even know there is an econ mode, but the manuals say that it starts in standard mode, so I would focus on the not heating part. If you spa is not getting up to temp then that's your problem.

On some of the balboa top sides there is a backlight bulb that can be replaced. You have to pry the top side up from the spa and it's on the back side. Gray or black round thing that unscrews a little bit - that's the bulb.

4 buttons, right? blower, jets [ display ] heat & light?

What mode is it in; economy or standard? If your spa isn't heating AND it's in standard mode then it will constantly run because it's trying to get up to temperature. If it is in standard mode then put it in economy mode and see if the pump shuts off. Give it 2 hours for it's filter cycle to run if you've just turned the power back on.

It depends on the pump you have. Jacuzzi pumps can be very proprietary; meaning the wet end part. You can always get a new motor (and pump seal) and use the same wet end so that the plumbing matches up. ... and hope that the impeller doesn't break when you try to take it apart, or plan on replacing that too. If you want to replace the whole pump (motor and wet end) with something 'generic' - Besides getting a similar motor (same hp, voltage, 1 speed or 2 speed, etc.) you need to be concerned that the plumbing will line up the same way and that it has the same size fittings for the unions. For example, there are 1.5", 2", 2.5" unions. And just because it LOOKS the same, doesn't mean it will match up to your plumbing the same, especially if your spa has rigid plumbing.

Just to follow up... I replaced the heater relay board and the spa is working / heating perfectly. So... if the heater light is off on the main board it very well may be the heater relay board after all. I still believe the situation was very unusual; not typical. Anyway... I hope all this might help someone somewhere down the road!

Whoever the retailer is that told you this is ripping you off. There is no reason to replace the whole IQ 2020 if the heater board is bad under normal circumstances. 99.5% of the time it is just the heater board. I also got the impression she was just sold the PC board, not the whole box, which is very odd.

What panel? The house panel, the disconnect box...??

Thank your clarifying! That makes more sense of what happened and who's responsible. Did you find out why the breakers were tripping when he was trying to install the used heater relay board? Under the circumstances I would hope they're not charging you for labor. The whole thing sounds too close to call, if you know what I mean. The main board may or may not be bad and now there's no way to know. Usually the main board is fine, but once in a great while it gets scrambled too. I've seen one that was totally black from soot of the heater relay board burning up. After it was cleaned up, it looked like everything should have worked but it just didn't and had to be replaced. "Used" dealer guy will find out later if/when he tries to use the board. Sounds like you a run a really nice B&B and care about your guests. I hope everything is all smooth and good from here on out! Probably wouldn't hurt to ask an electrician about any power surge situation.

I don't understand what you just paid $500 for. There are jumpers he may have needed to add or take off, depending on the voltage you're running vs. whatever the spa was running with that used board. Details are on the back of the control paned lid. But if he was a hot spring technician then he would have looked at that and it could be something else. You can get a heater relay board online for $140 including tax and shipping. If you're under warranty then the dealer should be sorting you out - or were you just in a hurry so called out whoever would come now?

I'm not a do-it-yourself sort of person when it comes to motors because I don't know enough about what makes them tick. So... I'd say call you local pool maint. companies and ask them where they take their motors for repair (should be a reputable, authorized repair center sort of shop). It doesn't cost much to have the motor checked out or even fixed - especially as compared to buying a new one. Perhaps someone can tell you more specifically why a motor would trip a GFCI other than bad motor or amp draw.