Mikey_in_NY

Thanks for sharing this info Greg.

The best insulation will still let some heat pass through, meaning your heater WILL kick-in every now and then to maintain temperature with the cover closed.

I think (hope) that's normal - my Sundance does the same. It feels cold relative to the hot water in the tub, but is a long way from freezing.

You should generally avoid adding pH increaser. The best way to adjust your pH is to adjust your alkalinity to the point where it keeps your pH stable. I think that you will find an alkalinity of 150 to be too high. Most people get a stable pH with an alkalinity of about 80 ppm while using dichlor and about 60 ppm when using bleach. Just for the record. Using the dichlor/bleach method with a TA stable at 75 for the past few months I've used a dash of borax and baking soda to raise the pH when needed. A dash means two table spoons maybe every 3->4 weeks. My TA has not needed much adjustment since I've moved to using this method. Stop using all those chemicals and save yourself some money and hassle. Greg Same here - I've been using the Dichlor/chlorox method for more than 3 months now. My TA stays at around 70-80, and my PH around 7.4, and I rarely need to adjust. Only difference is I've not yet needed to use any borax or baking soda.

Make sure your floor will take the weight. 4,000 lbs plus 4 (big) adults could take that to 5,000 lbs - you don't wanna end up in the basement!

When I was shopping for a tub earlier this year my local Hot Springs and Sundance dealers both offered large (at least 7' x 7') tubs for between 6 and 7 grand (exc tax), albeit after a lot of bartering. These were 2 pump models with 24 hour circ pump and ozonator, steps, cover and cover lifter, delivered, installed, start-up chemicals, orientation and, of course, full dealer support.

Not far from you (Buffalo). I didn't plan well either, and have been waiting for a weather window to drain and fill my tub. Today is 39f, so just emptied and refilled this morning, water temp was 48 at first, now 55f. Gonna take a long time to get to temperature!

Could be that the pump needs priming. Try removing the filter(s) then force water from a hose through the fliter intake(s) to purge any air out of the system (you'll see plenty of bubbles coming out of the jets). Switch off electric to the tub before doing this. If that doesn't work there may be a cap on/near the circ pump you can undo to let air out of the system - check owners manual if you have one. Good luck.

Agree. You won't go far wrong with any of these tubs.

I plan on doing the same thing next year, but my deck is only 22" off the ground, meaning my tub will stick out above the deck a foot or so. Right now my tub is on a concrete pad, up against the one side of the deck, and I plan on enclosing it by building my deck around the other 3 sides of the tub. As far as I'm aware you need to consider at least 2 things... 1. Access to the pumps and spa services, you'll need to allow at least 3 feet access from that side of the tub. Best way to do this may be by some sort of trap door/hatch built into the deck. 2. Removing Spa completely in the event you change it, or have a catastrophic failure. Not something you want to consider, but if it does happen you'll need to design the deck so the tub can be dragged out without completely dismantling/destroying the deck. Using carriage bolts and screws (instead of nails) will help this process. Only other option will be to lift the thing out with a crane. Anybody out there actually done this? If so, any tips or advice?

Is your tub brand new? I only ask as the object may be something left over from the manufacturing process?

Yes - the circ pump and ozonator are both designed to run 24/7, the heater is on the same circuit, and will kick in and out to meet your temp requirements. Is is necessary for it to run 24/7? Dunno, but because the circ pump negates any need to run the main pumps for any real length of time (maybe an hour a day depending upon your settings) it should still work out cost-effective as it consumes relatively little electric. As far as I'm aware there is no option to switch the circ pump on/off in cycles.

Oooow this is very general. most people will never buy a tub the Costco way. They want more, They want a dealer, and they want a tub they have tryed out and is comfortable because that is the most important part. Believe it or not allot of people do want to dance to a price. Some people enjoy it, probably more enjoy it than don't. Roger, First of all I totally respect your opinion and advice - please understand I'm not saying the Costco model is the way HT sales should go, neither am I recommending, or not recommending, anyone buys a HT from them as I don't know enough about Strong quality, other than what I've read on here. Secondly, Yes - I completely agree that many (most?) people DO want a dealer they can trust, and who is there to help them out with any after-sales issues they may encounter, and any advice they may need. Perhaps my original post was a bit strong in as much as my intention was not to tar all dealers with the same brush, but when I shopped for a HT earlier this year I soon worked out who the "smoke and mirror" dealers were (it was like pulling teeth to get a price out of them), and subsequently kept away from them. In the end I went with a local Sundance dealer who was very matter-of-fact, with a no BS attitude, and I'm glad I did as they have demonstrated excellent after-sales service that I doubt I would have received via the Costco route. Regardless of all this the original posters question is simple, and still stands, i.e. why can't the potential purchaser walk into a HT dealership and see the 'real' price posted on HT's, instead of playing a frequently convoluted bartering game?

Uhhhhhh. Yes. Perhaps you've never been to one? Real prices on their websites too. Imagine that! No point in arguing with you. These threads come up about once a month. They show that there are customers that want transparency in the pricing and sales process. They're the same folks that don't want bag fees, the used car runaround, gimmicks, negotiation, etc. If a dealer, or the industry as a whole can't / won't accommodate them, fine. Someone else will. Totally agree - that's probably why the airline with the least bag fees is also the most profitable (Southwest). When I shopped for my tub earlier this year I quickly got very weary bartering with dealers to get the final 'real' price - do they think their time is more valuable than my own? Do they really think consumers want to go through all this crap just to buy a hot tub. Maybe I'm stupid but after listening to all the arguments for and against I still don't get why they can't just post the true price on their tubs. If or when Costco get their HT quality together these dealers will soon learn a very valuable lesson, in that consumers don't want to dance the sales dance any more.

Hey Nitro, I think you mean NewB@spa, and not myself?

Good post Tadaia - any reason why you paid in full before receiving your HT? Seems to me this HS dealer needs a lesson in consumer relations - crappy way to treat you. I guess the leason for prospective purchasers here is only put a refundable deposit on any new tub, a condition of 'refundable' being if delivery is unacceptably late (and that's a subjective thing) then you can back out and get your deposit back.

Thanks - understood!

Another question, are you running an ozonator? If so, that can contribute to overzealous chlorine demand. Hey Bart, I'm a novice when it comes to maintaining water chemistry, but from what I've read on other posts I thought an ozonator has a tendancy to reduce chlorine demand, rather than increase it? If an ozonator does in fact lead to needing more sanitizer (chlorine), then what's the point in having one?

As a new tub owner a few months ago I also suffered with the brownish goo at the waterline, plus excessive foaming, and that was when the tub was only 2 weeks old. After reading this forum I quickly figured out this was almost certainly due to body oils/lotions and detergents (my town water contains no metals). In the end I dumped the water and started over - that was 3 months ago. Since then I've been using the Dichlor then Chlorox method but, more importantly, have adopted a zero-tolerance 'shower before using hot tub' regime for the whole family. After 3 months water is still perfect - tub is used every day with no foaming or brown goo, and chemistry is well balanced. If it ever gets above feezing again here, or stops snowing I'm gonna change the water ready for the long,cold months ahead. If all else fails suggest you throw out some/all of your water.

No harm in switching off for an hour then restarting, however probably best to speak with your dealer about this.

I wouldn't worry about missing a 'great deal' - from what I can see these 'great deals' run pretty much year-round. I'm sceptical over the Jacuzzi dealers comment that a mineral/bromide system can do the same thing as an ozonator - hmmm, I think not. I totally agree with your frustration over dealers not posting the 'real' price on their tubs - this is just smoke and mirrors at best, and complete BS at worst. If it helps I found the final (walk out of the dealer) price to be around 60% of the posted price. Why it has to be so is a total mystery to me, and this type of behavior can only help the Costco's of this world who have fully transparent pricing.

Sorry - I meant Dichlor/Bleach method NOT bleach chlorox!

New tub owner who's been using the bleach/chlorox method for 12 weeks now. TA holds very steady at 70-80, PH very steady at 7.4-7.6. Shock once per week with MPS (using Silver cartridge), tub has ozonator and 24 hour circ pump. Tub is used every day. Water is crystal clear with no odor. After figuring out the right balance I haven't had to add anything other than MPS and Chlorox for at least 5 weeks now - chemistry almost seems to look after itself, and am now at the point where I only check the balance once per week. Very happy with this method.

Agree - GFI or not, keep 110v away from your tub.

Probably best you discuss this with your dealer. I'm assuming you have no 24hr circ pump?