jams

I've had my salt generator for a year and recommend it. The chemicals are more stable and the water feels better.My first generator salt was spec'ed to my pool size,20k gals.,it always ran at 100% to maintain chlorine,barely. I dumped that one and got one for 40k gal. pool and it runs at 50% to maintain chlorine. I suggest getting a generator larger than your pool size(in gals)to have more operating room. It cost about $150 more for a larger size. best deals are e-bay off season.

i found the best invention. A new slider without changing the zipper for $3.00-Zlide-On.

Well,the cover had a metal zipper pull tab which has corroaded into pieces leaving half the cover open exposing the foam. Short of buying a new cover ,has anybody fixed a zipper? Or know where I can find a zipper that's about 6 feet long? thanks---joe

yeah,like txpoolguy said if you don't know how to make a 'water column" to check incoming gas pressure that will show the HS1 is set too low for most natural gas lines don't mess with it. and above all ,if you get a tech to come out DON"T buy a control board unless you see a new brd. operate your heater- they are good heaters once they're setup.

i like that-tks

My spa has the pump and heater 30' away so only the plumbing is at the spa. I need to add some kind of side walls to hide the supports and plumbing. Not too fond of wood as it doesn't last very long being wet most of the time. Anybody had success with other material?

Check Craiglist in your area, I found a 3 yr. old spa that was in good shape with a top. the new home owner didn't want it , best of all I just paid to have it moved $100.

Switch the drain-skimmer valve to full skimmer or wherever the cleaner is connected. if the feet and wheel seem to be moving ,sometimes it just needs more suction to keep going.

I have one of those heaters and could never get it STAY lit more than 1 minute. The fix was to adjust the gas regulator. The gas pressure is important to how the heater works. If your comfortable adjusting the regulator , only turn the screw 1/4 turn till it stays lit.

First,there should be no air bubbles in return water. Fix any leaks you see in the PVC,2 part putty works best or Blue PVC cement if possible. but be sure of the leak before using putty. Can you isolate pool from spa. if yes,shutoff spa ,after, get the pool water return water air free,use the drain-no skimmer-no spa.. once clear of air open to pool skimmer and see for air bubbles.If no air bubbles ,switch to spa, if air bubbles ,spa is leaking. Basically,the pool and spa are a water tight sealed system. Air bubbles mean it's sucking air from a leak. Good luck.

Get the 40K one. My experience with spec to pool size was a pain. I had to run my previous cell at 100% all the time to keep chlor level correct.

Somehow a screw got into the pool and stained the surface everywhere the Navigator pushed it around,in the deep end of course. So,I got 4 stains each the size of a Guinness bottle cap, oddly enough I drink Guinness,anyway, will the stain fade over time or can I do something? thanks

thanks for all the opinions,but I cut it and respliced it with a terminal strip. The only odd reading was the salt ppm read 2800 when it actually is 3400. A week later it read 2900. Goldline tech support said this happens because my water temp is 94 deg. and just live with it. I'm pleased with the results so far because its a cell for 40k gallons when I have a 18k gallon pool. Output level is at 55% and perfect chlorine level.

This is an easy on for somebody in the know. I'm installing a Goldline T-15 and want to mount the controller in the garage,out of the weather. The cell cable connector is too large for hole in the wall,so I want to cut the cable and splice the cable together .Problem is there are 2 black and 2 white wires that I'm not sure if crossing the 2 white wires or the 2 black wires matter or not when I splice them later . thanks