Chas

We'll send you the bill. Oh wait! I meant: "glad we could help." Yeah, that's it. Glad we could help. Enjoy!

Don't do anything in your tub that I wouldn't do! (And no, I will not post a list!) Welcome to Spatopia: may you soak long and prosper!

Bleach has a pH of close to 13 - so watch that pH if you do use bleach.

Agreed.

I suspect you are looking for one like this: It has a plate on the bottom, as shown, but under that is a nipple which fits into the top of the filter to hold it all in place. Horizon # 17-110-1065 Manf. Pentair Pool Products Manf # R172661DG HTH

I have had surprising luck by simply placing a sheet of exterior-grade plywood under the tub. It seems to tie any loose deck boards together, and it also closes off the air spaces between the deck boards which can act as amplifiers: think "sound hole" on a guitar. I was actually putting it down so we could lay a sheet of insulating rubber mat, but the mat didn't show up in time for "The Big Party," so we cut the plywood, sealed it, put it down, put the spa back down, and we were all very thrilled that the sound transmission problem was gone! For the price of a sheet of ply, some wood sealer, some time, and a tub refill, you could sure give it a try. And the bonus is, if it doesn't work, you haven't wasted anything because you really want a solid surface if you ARE going to go ahead and put down something resilient. As to wrapping the motor, I would say be very careful not to do anything which would allow heat to build up, and by all means: if there is not already a resilient pad under the motor itself, start there! FoamByMail.com HTH

Oh! Well, uh, um, that would be the - uh, None. But I do have the new "Bolt" on an introductory special for $4995, which is close... thought it's our smallest, non-lounger member of the "Limelight Collection." I do recognize that most manufacturers are well aware of what their tubs are worth.

Your heater relay board may very well be bad - I would check this: if the mother board has a tiny LED marked "heater on" which is lit, but there is no voltage going to the heater, then the heater relay board is gone. HTH

To rule out some easy things first - Your tub may only heat at one to three degrees an hour under the best circumstances. That would be for a tub running on 110Volts. You may get closer to eight or nine from a 220Volt tub, but both of these numbers would depend upon a good cover, closed up tightly. Most of these tubs run best if you 'set it and forget it' rather than heating it up before use. HTH

Yes, exactly.

"In stock" is certainly not a problem on the East Coast. Most dealers ship in containers or truckloads to save on freight. He most likely not going have any spas in stock which are not hot sellers.

Simple: disconnect the pressure switch, then fire up the unit. Put an ohm meter on the switch itself - should be open with pump off and closed with pump on low speed.

One of the issues Trex decking material had was that it had such an open texture that it was basically porous. So, in wet climates it would hold water - that did not degrade the material in any way, as it would do with wood, but it did allow mold and moss to grow, making the surface slick as ice. This was especially true on the cost here, where we get moisture in the form of fog, or "Marine Layer" every night. I don't think they make that type of material anymore, but I have plenty of customers who live in the dry inland valleys who have not had a lick of mold-related trouble with it. Having said that, see this link - the views expressed are not necessarily those of the staff or management of this forum... http://www.gardenstructure.com/composite_decking

That's what I was going to say - rule out that, and a dirty filter first. Look to see if you can observe air being drawn in anywhere. HTH

That reading tells me the heating element is fine. There is a ten-minute time-delay on that unit which catches a lot of technicians off guard. You turn the jets on high, then turn them off - then WAIT ten minutes or so and the low-speed will click on. Wait ANOTHER couple of minutes, and THEN put your meter to the heater. HTH

Welcome to "Spatopia." I hope you get a lot of good use and tons of enjoyment out of your tub. May you soak long and prosper...

What part of the world are you in?

The Warranty on HotSpring tubs is 5 years (7 on the shell/structure) - just sayin' HTH

Thank-you.

Awesome! Welcome to 'Spatopia.' Let us know if we can help you keep it just perfect, and post some pictures if you get a chance. And think about doing a one-time water change around July 28th. Lots of benefits, makes it much easier to do water care from there forward. Enjoy!

I have always told my customers to buy ONE bottle of "spa up" and then refill it with baking soda purchased in bulk. That way they have a good bottle, with all the correct labeling consistent with the way they are using the product on hand. I keep my stuff in a little carrier which Leisure Time no longer makes, but it has perfect little places for everything, and I like having all the correct bottles in it... I also used to buy Dichlor in 100 pound tubs and allow customers to refill their bottles for a couple bucks a pound. I insisted that they put it into bottles with full labels for Dichlor for safety. The economy is so slow right now that I'm worried it might sit around too long, so I haven't done it for awhile.

That's a smokin price for a running HotSpring. Keep in mind that you may need: - new cover $400 (I know it looks good in the picture, but if it is the original, it may be waterlogged and heavy) - Wiring - I see conduit coming out, but I also see a HotSpring 110Volt outlet cover - One way or another you will need to supply adequate electrical. - Moto Massage $100 (if it works, leave it. But if it is the original, you can count on replacing it: they last 5 to 10 years). Level it better than they have - there should be THREE rows of shims: one row about a foot in from each outside edge, and one right down the center. HTH

A small wire wheel in a drill motor can make fast work of the foam. I usually start by scraping as much off with a dulled tool such as a pry-bar, then the wire wheel to get the surface clean enough for the new materials to stick to it. HTH

BTW - in that first picture, you can see right into the core of your filter. There is a Nature2 cartridge there. There should be a basket sitting on top of the filter, with a nipple on the bottom which closes off the filter. Otherwise, water simply goes down the tube into the pump, with no filtration. Small items can also make their way to the pump. You may have it set aside, but if it's missing you need to get a new one.

To turn it off, I usually hit both test buttons on the Circuit Breakers. They are GFCI type, and are supposed to be tested monthly. Don't worry, nobody does, but using the Test button when you do water changes is a good way of being sure they are still protecting you. To turn on, start with the 20A breaker. Once the jets have run for a few minutes, shut down and wait until you know the small circ pump is running. If you have ozone, look for the small bubbles rising from the floor fitting. If not, just watch the surface to see if you can see a small amount of stacking directly over the floor fitting. If the circ pump is running, then turn on the 30A breaker. That is the safest way to assure you don't dry-fire the heater. It has protection against damage, but I have never found a reason to test that safety system when it is so easy to start up as I have line out. As to an air bubble - if the circ pump is running, then you don't have an air bubble. But if you find the circ pump is NOT running, which is often the case after a long shut-down, then you can open it and clean it out. If that doesn't do it, replace the pump. The new ones are better anyway. HTH