Brian_GP1200R

If your looking for a vehicle that will last for 75-100 thousand miles they are perfect and there cost is representitive of that. If your going to drive the crap out of it and put 100 G's on in 3-4 years yet want it to last for 7-8 years then you better choose a better brand. I'm not saying there is no value in that but I have 90,000 on my truck and it is 4 years old. I want it to last another 4 or more. A Hyundai won't do that. My truck cost alot more but I got alot more! As spa tech said, you can not use Hyudai's anymore...better warrenty than "name" brands and there are many that have upwards of 200,000 on them, they used to be junk, but they addressed that and are much better....they did not go bankrupt, change names or so on and they also cost a lot more now than 5-7 years ago, they had to to better their quality....I love my Tiburon....but this is a tub site, not a car site. Hyundai isn't junk, but Roger is right. Hyundai's "average lifespan" will still not outlast Toyota or Honda, and especially not the Lexus / Acura side. I've driven them / known people with them... and they aren't bad... but my Toyota product with twice the miles still drives better with less issues.

I think I would just hit it with some MPS.

I'm on the Dichlor then bleach method and so far I'm having great results. I do have the pull the pH down every once in a while, but it's not too bad, even with an ozonator. I'm still on my first water fill, but after about a month / month and half I only good things to say about the "CGCMS" method.

Sounds like one of the pumps isn't primed. Did you fill it through the filter? What kind of tub is it?

When it's working properly the floor jet will have bubbles coming out of it anytime the spa is running. It's the jet that infinity is using there. I'm not sure why they use a different (non closing jet) on the floor, but it creates pressure instead of a vacuum on the line. Just swap it out for one of the other jets and it will probably start working fine. I'm thinking of getting another "regular" jet so I can get rid of this other one. I don't like the thought that it doesn't ever pull a vacuum. Also, as an update Infinity sent me out a new ozone generator VERY quickly which is working well, unlike the original one. They are taking their sweet time getting out here to fix my leak, good thing it's REALLY small and I only have to empty a Gladware container once a week or so... I need to call and bug them. I also had problems with my water being cloudy @ first, but these days I'm keeping it crystal clear... below is what I found: 1) Don't be afraid to shock it. I'm using chlorine, and I'm not afraid to dump a decent amount of MPS in as well if it's looking a bit cloudy. 2) Take the time to balance the pH, Alk, and Total Hardness. My water registered ZERO on the hardness, and I've finally been able to get it up (a little) and also used some baking soda to get the Alk up. Just keep working with the chemicals, it took me a bit of time to get it there too and @ this point it's really not all that much work anymore.

Leave the cover off, turn the jets on with air, and if you have an air blower turn that on as well.

I wouldn't go with that plan (again). The FC drops really quickly with a high bather load and takes a while and a ton of chlorine to get back to normal. If I were you I would just plan on adding 1/2 - 3/4 of a tablespoon every hour or so... from what I've seen with my tub of similar size and bather load that would probably keep you safe. I'm a newb too though. This is one of those times when using the test strips instead of the drops really comes in handy. I just make sure that my hot tub can always change the color on the FC pad and we're all good :-)

I did see that water was backing up into the ozone system up to the check valve. My ozone generator was actually bad from the beginning (never even would turn on). Infinity sent me a new Balboa one that seems to be working well (it lit up), however it still wasn't pulling ozone in, and was actually pressurizing the tube going towards it. Turns out whatever the "shower head" like jet is that they put down in the foot well (that can't be turned off) for whatever reason WILL NOT ever generate any vacuum. To solve the problem I just switched it out for one of the other jets, to take them out you just keep turning it counter clockwise after they fully open, and they will pop right out. I just switched it for one of the other jets and it instantly started creating a vacuum. I did also have to turn off a few of the jets to get enough of a vacuum to pull the ozone on the low speed. I'm thinking it's probably a combination that a few of the loops have a "little" water in them from before and the face that I've got two check valves in there now. I'm thinking once I dry out the lines and get back to one check valve it will probably work normally without having to turn off a few jets first. Still waiting on them to get someone out to fix my leak... good thing it's minor.

I can understand not wanting to use "harsh chemicals", however you're very likely to make your self sick (again) by not using an EPA approved sanitizer (you know you have 3 options right?). Even the silver ion products still recommend regular use of an EPA approved sanitizer. Draining and refilling the water is not enough as you'll quickly allow things to grow within the plumbing. At least follow chem geek's suggestion and use chlorine to kill everything off. It will normally disapate within a day or so and will kill off all the bacteria and will disappear before you get in, then shock it again after you get out to kill off everything you introduced into the water.

The only difference I have found is that tha Laguna has an air blower that bubbles up air through the seats and the Sun Peak has two water (jet) pumps. Otherwise I believe they are identical.

Haha, spoke too soon. Took the side panel off to investigate the ozone which I've now confirmed isn't working (looks like a bad ozone generator to me) and found that I have a small leak where the inlet pipe for the pump meets the base of the filter housing. I've got a call into Infinity and we'll see what happens.

I was thinking that the box sure sounds like a nice (but expensive) frame for concrete if he were to decide he would prefer to go that route.

As long as you have the recommended amount of an EPA approved sanitizer I see no reason why you wouldn't be able to safely enter the spa. An approved sanitizer would kill off any bactieria within seconds of it coming in contact with the water. What are you using to sanitize the water, and what levels of the sanitizer are you maintaining?

I think the point is that he might be able to still do concrete, save money, and not worry about the gravel... if he chooses to do so. Otherwise I would think that the most round gravel would be best, but I would still be concerned that it could void warranties, etc... I would def check what the manufacture recommended prior to instalation.

I couldn't get a truck either, so instead mixed up the concrete bags in a little electric mixer from Home Depot. It cost about $40 for the day and would mix 2 bags at a time. Each load took about 2 minutes to mix up. Surprisingly it only took about 2 hours to mix up and pour 31 bags for my slab... and it's STURDY :-) It really wasn't bad at all until it started raining during the finishing process :-/