wylekioti

Going to make a guess. Economy May depend on your use of the tub though. See if that setting works for you.

You need enough water so the filters are submerged when pumping and no one in the pool. Depends on design some what how low is ok but dont forget water evaporates. How often are you going to check? Check after use? Dont let air get to the filters.

I read one owners manual for a spa that states: The water in the tub should be changed once a month because the "paper" filter does not remove... and they listed a long line of contamination. Now the filter may last a year or two, but if it does not really filter the water and the water must be drained every month, what kind of cost is that in water bill, chemicals, electric (to reheat), and time? Think that it is interesting that this information on spa maintenance is kept to the owners manual. I realize this may not be true for all brands of spas with paper filters, I have not read all the owners manuals. But thought it to be a consideration on what filter is really a filter. If you were filtering your drinking water, would you choose a filter that removed everything possible or one that states "This takes out the big chunks but will not remove anything harmful" I thought the purpose of the filter was to keep the water usable. If contamination after a month of spa use with a filter, still requires the complete changing of the water, why even have one?

Thank you in advance for any input. I am going to be buying my first Tub soon. My doctor wants me to be in it three times a day for my back injury to help relieve my constant pain. He also does not want me to have to deal with stairs because with my injury I loose feelings in my legs stepping down. Here is the problem. Live in a 2 story house with basement that is partially renovated and is not sellable as is. I am unable to finish the renovation unless I can use a spa for pain relief but we need to move to a single story as soon as possible. So I would like to make the spa installation removable or movable. Not knowing how fast I can work with the pain relief from the spa, I don't know if it will be a year or five or if I can get the house up for sale on my own. I need to figure out the best foundation for the spa that could be removed without major cost or I need to have the current concrete patio removed and repoured thicker and level and doubt I can afford that with cost of tub and electric. My current patio is not a good location however, due to a large tree of neighbors that is extreemly messy and smelly, we can not even use patio for a bbq because of this tree. We have talked with the neighbors for years about removing the tree and guess what they say. Even with where I am thinking of placing the spa, the tree's mess may require me to put a roof over the spa that I can clean easily. (anyone try these fold up camping tarp roofs for a spa?) Another issue with this is wind, we get wind (just had to have roof redone from wind damage) so I may need a more permanent kind of roof than a tarp if we continue to stay here for long. Not knowing how long I am going to be in this house has me confused on how to install the tub so that it is usable but would not be an issue to move later.(I would think a cement pad in the yard with wires sticking up would not be a good selling point) I was wondering about using pavers and is there a good way to make a solid level serface that would be stable for the weight? A wood deck may not look so out of place if tub removed but the cost would be? (in this neighborhood, selling house with the tub would not recover costs IMO) Or should I just figure a way to do a more permatent install and let it go with house and hope that somehow I can get another when I move, living on dissability. My brain is not able to work through this like it use to before my injury, with the pain and pills...

OHHH! have you tried to Bedazzle your spa cover? You could make a Tropical Beach scene on the one side so when you are in the tub it would be something to enjoy besides a bland cover. Although I would guess it would also destroy the cover. Maybe just Bedazzle a tarp to throw over the folded cover. That way you could change the theme with different Bedazzled designs. Just think how the lighting of the spa would bring that to life!

How much do those filters cost though? At the Artic dealer I went to, if I remember correctly, was under $20 so cost per year would be about $60 US/. Other brands I have looked at with the paper filter, when I asked about the cost of filters, I was told to replace them was from $75 up to $150. The $75 paper was to be replaced once a year and the $150 pack the salesman claimed would go 2 years. From what I understand, the paper type can be cleaned several times and need to be in the course of a year. Correct me if I am wrong, but thought someone said you use a chemical for cleaning these. Dont know what that cost would be. The other side is I know you can buy the paper from sources that are cheeper than the dealers but then if your not supporting your local dealer, will they be able to stay in business and be there when you need them. Just a thought.

Thanks for the info guys!

I have been shopping for a spa for some time and seem to keep coming up with more questions. I find this site very informative but have not found anything yet about one question that popped into my head. Would turning off the air to the jets after use reduce the heating cost? I am talking about tubs that heat with pump 1 on low or similar that push the heated water out the main jets. Would no air to those jets help? When I get my tub, I want to keep running costs as low as I can. It seems to me that the added air and turbulance would increase evaporation adding to heat loss. Or am I just getting silly about a minor thing.

Here is my 2 cents, from my experience in using a spa. I prefer no suit, but there are times that is not going to work. So, less and tight is best or you end up with a balloon pulling seams into... it is uncomfortable. So instead of enjoying your soak, you spend your time keeping the air out of your suit. It is easy for women to find suitable swimwear, but for men it has become a challenge. Apparently, men no longer are allowed to wear swimwear in the USA because every store I have gone to only sells loose, baggy things with long legs which seem to not only be dangerous to swim in but would be a nightmare in a spa. I have seen a few that would work at athletic specialty stores but the price is rather high as compaired to what women can pay for something similar. Suggestions? Recomend, get out of spa with suit and rinse off in shower, rinsing your suit at that time and hang dry. Avoid washing as much as you can. Nothing spoils a night in the tub like having it turn into a bubble bath that no one can see for the foam! However, women in one piece suits can be a good laugh.

Sorry, I read this: Yes Five you seem perfect for this kind of tub for your first tub, You get to learn it's function and what these things are all about. I hope you stick around 5-10 years for when you really start to see the differences. I'm the same kind of guy. I will buy a Cub Cadet versus a John Deer because they will both do the same thing for the first 5-10 years. And if my experience didn't tell me different I would do the same with tubs. and do not understand your annalogy of Cub Cadet versus a John Deer. Are you refering to a John Deere lawn tractor? that would be compaired to a Cub Cadet and with my expeirence both are almost equal in quality. (Seen many problems with John Deere, more than Cub Cadet) So are you saying that all hot tubs are the same? Or if it isn't Green, it isn't Good? I am looking to make a major investment into a Tub and don't want the John Deere of tubs.. I want some quality that I can count on to last for years. And if repairs are needed down the road, the parts will still be there. (have run into several older JD tractors and lawn tractors that parts were no longer available but never had that problem with Cub Cadet except for the engine manufacturer, which for years JD used the same source, not servicing all engine parts for a 35 year old unit) Just not sure what your point was.

I know I should not get into this. My brain is at half power after my back injury. But I did not see "time" mentioned. Assuming heat loss were constant (not) you should have a frequency as a percent of time you would have to reheat. I would avoid getting into Constant temp but rather a "how long to heat 2 degrees divided by how long it takes to lose 2 degrees" . Sorry I dont even know where my thermodynamics, physics, etc books are any more. but maybe this will start a new thought.

Ok, I wrote a bunch of stuff then realized I should keep this simple. Not knowing if the electrican is starting from scratch on the wiring or is it just a matter of final hook-up, really hard to anwer your question. Sounds like standard operating procedure for a final hook-up. If it is 20 degrees out and they are starting from scratch, I would not recomend filling before they start. Agree with Deus66

Sorry, by the time I got done laughing about the truck comment, I forgot you said you had the better cover.

Buy a new truck. Sorry, just had to say that! I really would like to help. I am still shopping for a spa and trying to avoid high heat bills too. Do you have a great cover or the standard 2"? May pay to get best cover you can. Also is wind a factor, wind blocking fence or plants may reduce heat loss after all moving air is one of the best heat removing methods. Just look how they cool a car engine or the computer on your desk.

My doctor told me to run the temp (when I get a spa) at a natural body fever temp to be therepudic. 104 is about max for a safe temp for your body without causing damage. However I question the temp. sensors and what the tollerance for accuracy is. I wonder if you should try a seperate themometer in your water and see if it agrees with the computer temp. Temp sensors could be off, if even a degree or two would make a big difference in the water feel. Just a thought.

I am also looking at a Coleman spa and the dealer here gave me a price sheet. For what its worth, the C480 Deluxe is base priced at $7299 and the Premium is $7899 US. Options are extra like Stereo, Ozonator, covermate, etc. I know it is up to the dealer to set the prices, but this dealer has one C471 on the floor at $900 less than listed in this price sheet. Think you better steer clear of this dealer.. People need to make a living but.....

Wow, too early in the morning I guess. Wondering what caused it to be "fried"? Motor drawing too many amps? I would doubt that replacing your plug is a fix unless it was the defective part. Think you better do some testing or have someone with the equipment and knowlege test spa electrical before throwing a part at it imo. Ok done now.

I believe what he is confused about is the difference between 115v and 120v ratings on the plug and was not refering to 220 or 240 volt. I was trying to give a simple answer, basically 115v rating and 120v rating can be used interchangably. Voltage is the "pressure" of electricity and voltage ratings indicate that the insulation and air gaps are addiquate to prevent arching up to voltage safely. Your Stove plug vs lamp plug is apples and oranges. Amperage is the volume of electricity and is what if inadiquate rating is used will cause heat, fire, magic smoke(ie small wire like 12 guage would not be used on 50 amp circuit but is on a 20 amp). If the part fails to hold voltage, you get spark, breaker or fuse blows. Use to low amp rating breaker and you will always pop and may not get devise to work or use to high a breaker and it will not protect against overloaded circuits, shorts or grounds causing magic smoke. Dont want to beat this to death.

Do not worry about the voltage rating, 115v vs 120v, what is important is the amperage rating of 20 amps when replacing an electrical breaker or gfci plug as you need. Line voltage fluctuates around 110, so as long as the voltage rating is higher than actual voltage, this is the correct product. Hope this helps.

See no one has offered any help yet so I am going to make a suggestion. I am not a Spa owner yet, but have an idea from other experiences. Wash the cover well. Spray down with Lycol air freshener and let set open. I would check if there is a sealant or conditioner for the matterial on your cover and apply a coat if available.

I am not going to say L. A. Spas are bad, but a friend has owned one for about 4 years and has regretted not shopping around more. Controller failure and pump failure in the first 2 years. Filters may be washable, but required replacement for them after 2 years and that was with a second set and she told me they were expensive compaired to the other style of filter.

I am looking to buy a hot tub also and see no reason for "Full Foam" and am trying to avoid this in a tub. Heat loss from the shell of the tub should be about 1/3 of the loss from the water serface, where a good cover will do more good to make the spa less expensive to run. All I see with the full foam on the shell doing is making the tub quieter and creating problems for repairs in the future. I have not found a tub that I "fit in" yet. I plan on looking at Hot Springs to see what they offer because they are one of three brands offered within short distance where I live, but have only looked at the web site so far. I am a bit skeptical of the Moto-massage jet, saw the insides of one, looks like too many things to go wrong.