Pathfinder

Pacific

Im going to be Jumping on board with H2o. Hot Rod, I should have put to the best of my knowledge it was aber. Who was the original owner & where are they now in the industry?

The Pacific tubs have always been made by Aber. Aber was a 30 yr company with different ownerships. The Pacific name was always in the background until 2006. 2007 they added all new molds & brought the Pacific name to the forefront dropping the "Titanium" also leaving the made by Aber far in the background. The product was second to none but the marketing & exposure for product was horrible. Unless you were in the industry or knew someone who owned one you never heard of Pacific or Aber & the tubs were one of the most expensive on the market for a dealer to buy. You can have the best product in the world but if you cant move it effectively........

As I remember the Coast & Sundance warranty pages were almost Verbatim

Regardless of motor change you still have to separate the wet end in 2 then unthread the impeller which is always fun . You should change the seals as well.

The one buyer that I know that bought a good portion of the Pacific assets had no affiliation with the former company what so ever. I have no idea who the other buyers were. The new line that will be coming out will have nothing to do with Pacific. Now if supposedly someone were to do a new start up under the Pacific banner they may offer some relief for dealers who bought tubs in the last say 2 years to get them on board. Now for longevity Id say there are only a couple companies that have an original member running things. As of 2006-07 Pacific was a brand new company with all new molds and equipment. The 30yrs is only the "Pacific" name.

A company that will remain nameless bought a majority of the molds and a new spa line will emerge mid year. I know the 8 foot molds were bought by someone else from what the other buyer told me

Pacific is done & finished the auction was held with everything being sold off.The molds were were split among a few buyers.

I personally like the like the safety turtle alarms since I have found they work well & you can make them fun for the toddlers if you make the wrist band special so they want to wear it & not have it forced on them. SmartPool makes a bunch of surface alarms & one perimeter with voice but I dont know how reliable it is. A large part of my customer base is above 50. Most have grandchildren & this subject is starting to come up alot now so Im going to test out a bunch this summer to see what is the most reliable.

Its used plain & simple. Get a full refund & deal with someone else.

There is supposed to be either an O-ring or gasket between the 2 halves.

Im guessing its older than 10yrs since the raypaks 10 yrs and up had a separate controls for spa with a switch to move between pool mode & spa mode. Im going to guess there is a bypass of some sort that can be put in but I would advise against it.

If you are goin for a new liner I would strongly suggest in going with a beaded liner. A beaded liner offers a better fit. It will prevent uneven & unnecessary stretching that usually happen with overlap liners. It also offers faster replacement if you ever have to change it again for any reason by not having to uninstall the entire top half of the pool. I also recommend a geotextile to offer a bit more protection for the bottom. 20 mil liners are fine. IMO CGT offers the best vinyl to liner makers. Check out CGT for a maker near you http://www.cgtpoolliners.com/

It wont even out over time. If its a sand bottom it should have been either water barrel packed or mini tamped for a consistent bottom. Also to avoid deep footprints during liner install they should have been using weight displacing footwear. Also if your vac is a suction based system it can get caught in one of those potholes & actually cause a tear in the liner. Having installed & retro'd hundreds of AG pools the only way this can be fixed properly is to drain, pull the liner to the end of the skimmer & return(they can be left on) then have them Hand tamp & re trowel the entire bottom. Make sure when this happens there is sufficient coving either the styro or sand. From drain to refilling should only be a half day. When refilling if its by hydrant or water truck ensure that the water hits either the side of the pool to run down or a piece of stryo for the water to hit then disperse. These methods will prevent the water from causing divets in the pool bottom.

B4 you start the pressure test or digging anything up check the O-ring on the lid of your pump basket, then reinstall the threaded fittings at the front of your pump. These 2 areas are the most common causes of air leaks. Also be aware that sometimes pressure tests wont reveal an air leak so by process of elimination check all joint above ground first. Electrical tape wrapped on joints can indicate air leaks as the suction will actually form fit the tape if the is a leak.

Some say yes some say no. The bodies of the 2 are the same size. The wide mouth is supposed to allow more area to bring in surface debris. The biggest pieces of junk IMO are those floating skimmers that you find on Splash pools.

What kind of tub or what brand is the current motor? This info is kinda important.

Just after you get out of your tub mark the waterline with a pencil & turn off the air controls to the jets. Leave it closed for 2 days and measure the distance it has dropped & post back.

And this is the guy that installed your pool??? If you dont want to go to the local pool store for #9 winter plugs you can just buy an 1"1/2 threaded plug for the skimmer & a threaded cap for the return.

Go to your pool dealer and ask them for a couple of #9 plugs. This spring you should get 2 ball valves put in 1 in front of your pump & 1 after your SWG. I cant tell you how common this is. I have one competitor that has never put one on any of his aboveground pools.

It seems that the ground is over saturated & it has nowhere to go but the path of least resistance. Once it dries up it "should" set back into place but its not always the case, you may end up with a wrinkle or 2. Was it a dry summer when the pool was put in??? If that was the case then a drainage system was probably not put in around your pool. Some of the other builders on here might be able offer an economical way of addressing this issue as I have only dealt with this issue on a few occasions.

I believe you need a larger tub to be comfortable if your over 6' in height. I own a Pacific spa Calypso but they are now defunct. I sold them in a limited capacity for 2yrs. I chose that brand because I could fit in 98% of the seats comfortably. The seats had you in properly seated position & not sitting on the floor. I like the seating heights from Beachcomber, H20, Coast, A couple models from Jacuzzi, & Calspas. From what Hillbilly says it appears the Clearwater tubs have some decent seating. To be fair to Arctic I do like the seats in the Glacier.

Water boy could you give us the interior measurement from inside bottom to top. because I always thought that the 39" was exterior & with all that space underneath inside. Im gonna guess 30" interior. the Posting being a tall guy like myself would be way more comfortable with a truly deep tub where they are in a properly seated position than sitting basically on the floor with their knees basically tucked to their chest. Many tub makers have their seats basically on the floor & Bullfrog is the worst for that.

It wouldnt surprise me if the dealer didnt know or it could be that they arent going to say anything considering it isnt easy selling a new tub without warranty. If a company closes they arent going to advertise that on their website. Depending on how long in advance they paid for their online hosting the websites could be up for a couple years. With regards to quality you are better off buying a used tub than a new tub from anything tatum made

Do a search for Tatum Manufacturing or reviews on Gulf Coast spas. Imo there are a multitude of brands that are better than living water(Tatum) There's been a lot of spec on their financial status.