ps558

AB Putty or marine grad epoxy its good stuff and will work in water for you application. The best way is mix the two parts and then wet it and mold like clay. Do a couple of thin application instead of one big one.

AB Putty or marine grad epoxy

replacing the entire assembly is the easiest, but getting the element in and out is not bad. remove all sensors switched etc on the housing loosen the two bulkhead nuts slide old element out. when putting in the new element be careful not to bend the connection posts install new bulkhead nuts and sensors and your done

Your spa guy is right all of the equipment in 90% of the sundance spas is 220 volt none of it is 110 so it reguires neutral. Thanks for the reply but you have confused me here. Yes, the spa is 220v 60 amp. Spa guy is saying the spa DOES NOT require neutral to the GFCI panel. You are saying above that he is right then you say "sundance spas is 220 volt none of it is 110 so it reguires neutral", which is totally contradictory. Can you please clarify? Also, I assume between the GFCI panel box and the 220v 60 amp breaker in my main panel box will require a neutral? Thanks. some spas do not require a nuetral wire. I know Sundance at one time was making some this way. I think James just had a typing malfunction...99.99% sure he meant to say that if there's no 120V needed by the spa, then you *don't* need to bring a white wire from the GFCI spa box to the spa. Even though this would technically require only a three-wire service (red, black and green), you DO need the white between the disconnect and the main house panel. This is because of the way the GFCI breaker is designed. Since your GFCI is in the spa subpanel (right way to do it IMO) make sure that the white pigtail on the GFCI breaker is connected to the neutral bus not the ground bus in the spa box. The only place that the neutral and green should connect together is back at the house panel. If you misconnect, not only will it not be safe, but it may trip the GFCI immediately OR generate frequent nuisance trips.

OK, I called the site operator, and they said that it's probably a part made by CMT (CNT?) and that they have the replacement valve assy for $25, but they only sell the cap-lid-handle-oring assy (listed in the link above) for $70. The guy is saying there is no part number on the lid/gate/handle unit, but the valve body itself is stamped with part number 51250442 - Does this manufacturer sound familiar to any of you? you have a waterways diverter. I look at my distribators there is no seperate parts available. Here is link to the catalog http://www.waterwayplastics.com/catalogs/2...0_spavalves.pdf make sure you look at correct size 1 inch or 2 inch I don't think that's it - it's way larger. The cap is like 4 5/8", the threads are at 3 7/8", and the gate is 3 1/4 inch. If you look at the gate, it's just goofy looking compared to a waterway - it's just a huge tube with half of it basically molded out. As well, there are a bunch of molded / punched out on the top, unlike waterway's "wave" diverters. Maybe I'm just not seeing it in the catalog, but I've literally looked for hours (as did the WindRiver parts dude) to try and find it. I'm pretty sure it's the part made for Sundance by CMT. I'm just trying to find someone that sells just the cap and to o-rings for it. You can tell it's a different one because of how the handle looks - unless there is something that I'm not seeing in the PDF. after doing more searching they are CMP Products http://www.c-m-p.com/PDF/Spa/2010Valves.pdf here is replacement part list http://www.c-m-p.com/PDF/Spa/2010ReplacementParts.pdf hope the pdf opens I had some problems with them if not try from home page c-m-p.com

OK, I called the site operator, and they said that it's probably a part made by CMT (CNT?) and that they have the replacement valve assy for $25, but they only sell the cap-lid-handle-oring assy (listed in the link above) for $70. The guy is saying there is no part number on the lid/gate/handle unit, but the valve body itself is stamped with part number 51250442 - Does this manufacturer sound familiar to any of you? you have a waterways diverter. I look at my distribators there is no seperate parts available. Here is link to the catalog http://www.waterwayplastics.com/catalogs/2...0_spavalves.pdf make sure you look at correct size 1 inch or 2 inch

maax spa used market the tubs under the Coleman name. They decided not renew the license. I really like Maax products and don't worry the insulation in them very good. With the acrylic shell and hard foam sparayed to back side that is all that is needed. The is no heat transfer I know I worked on many Maax Products in cold weather. Let flaming begin. Maax seems not to market the product as much as Hot Springs does. In my opinion you got a way better spa with Maax than from Hot Springs. A Word if you get all three pumps running on high at the same time while its heater you can spend alot on electric. Maax also has better customer support than Watkins Manufacturing.

this happens on new builds and liner replacements. make sure it dry when the liner in installed and the after the pool is filled the weight of the water will keep it in place. If you have a really high water table as stated before the liner can float

I bet he wired the GFCI breaker wrong. the nuetral wire from the spa( most of time white color) goes to load nuetral on the breaker. not rhe nuetral bar in the panel. The bar is by itself were the ground goes. If it wired like this the breaker will never set. Another problem could be he crossed a wire some were like a hot leg connected to nuetral. You will need to check were the spa breaker is located wether it is in a sub panel near the tub or in your main breaker. I bet there is no nuetral on the breaker.

it sounds like a contactor to me. the tips on the plates might have worn out from being opened over time under load. when the spa is down heating the t stat tells the contactor to open which open and arc from being under load. If you have a meter to measure ohms you can test it. when replacing it make sure you get the correct coil voltage and amp rating. hopefully the label is still on. most are 120 volt coil rated at 30 amps

the only complaint I know of about CalSpas is they used to use GE Motors for the pumps. The motors are complete junk. If they stopped using them then get the spa that feel right for you for info A O Smith, Emerson, Marathon, Baldor are the other motor manufactures most pumps use Emerson or A O Smith.

you need a new circuit board for your spa. You could also replace the entire spa pack if you want. they come with a new heater and control panel. Is there a name on you controls now like Gecko,Balboa

we sell our used tubs for about $1000. I would say $1500 the cover going to be the sticking point. either get a new cover for it or offer a little discount. you want to start high to give yourself wiggle room on the price. These are 6999 new. Spas don't really have a good resell value at least were I live.

with either of the brands you have listed. Pick the model you like best. The energy cost are going to real close to be the same on these tubs

How is shipping from California to Ohio much different than shipping from California to Ontario? Maybe it'll take another day or two to get there but other than that a US manufacturer should be able to support their Canadian dealers just as well as their US dealers and I don't see a languague barrier (we've seen Strange Brew, we know how to speak Canadian). If someone said you shouldn't buy Arctic or Beachcomber in the States for the same reason I'd scratch my head at that too. Of course the strength of your dealer is key in all situations. I think all Hotsprings parts and equipment are proprietary which means the big component manufactures make parts especially for the spa manufacture and wont sell to anybody outside the dealer network. This is a problem if there is not a local dealer around to help you in a winter emergency because you local spa repair man cant get parts at a good price. Correct me if im wrong some of watkins heaters are now available from Horizon spa parts. Pumps can be subbed with aqua flo xp2 pumps. circ pumps are available but not that little thing they use but in a pinch laing pump will work. control systems are the problem and are best come from manufacture. Hydro quip does make pack that can run a watkins product if it will fit in the cabinet

the only things that I can think of even though minor. You must turn air control on to use some of the jets full feature, like moto massage. having to many filters that can get pricey. having to use there cover lift which if you don't it voids the warranty and attaches to the cover so all replacement cover must come from a hot spring dealer. I also think the control systems are in spas are very basic unless you want add remotes radio etc. makes you call dealer for answers because the spa will not tell you what is wrong with it. I don't know were you live but they also do not freeze protection if that circ pump dies. They do make a good product and as stated before there is no clear number 1. buy what you like about a spa these are just my opinions and yes I sell them

First off not knowing were you live. Was the pool winterized? , holding water etc. I would hate to see spend all the money on equipment with a bad pool. If you have 1.5 in pvc go no bigger than a 1.5 hp pump. I wouldn't go anything above that anyways. More HP is not better. It moves water faster but is harder on equipment. De filters are the best when pool is clean. If you trying to clean a green pool DE require some cleaning while clearing up the pool. cartridge filters are next in line. These contain big paper filter inside a tank and also require cleaning. These filters need to be taken apart for cleaning they do not use a valve. I do not like these filter just for the reason the cartridges will need to be replaced and are not cheap. Sand filters are the easiest no fuss no mess. Sand will take longer to clear up water than a DE but work very well. There is no cleaning just changing the sand every few years. The filter is were you can oversize the sq ft of surface area for the filter. I prefer Hayward equipment but there is also Pentair and Jandy. You can get standard pumps, high effcient pumps, variable speed pumps. Control system to run everything and chlorine generator. raypack makes the best pool heaters and as far as robot cleaner look into Tigershark from hayward or ones from Polaris. here are links to some manufactures to give you a feel for what is available. I am guessing here. Your pool is around 45000 gallons and you want to pool to be filtered entirely in at least a 10 hour time. For filters look at ratings chart for turnover in a time period http://www.haywardnet.com/inground/product...fm?ProductID=22 here is a example of a DE Perflex filter from hayward. In my opinion these are the best DE filters ever made. very reliable and you can order them with a base and a pump in 1 box ask more questions if you have any. http://www.haywardnet.com/ http://pentairpool.com/index.htm http://polarispools.com/Default.aspx?AspxA...CookieSupport=1

Big pair on channel lock pliers, water pump pliers. It should unscrew you just need mor leverage

Maax Makes Power Pools http://www.powerpoolspas.com/ I have seen 1 sunbelt and 1 D1 they both were nice

The Cal Spa is closer to 3 Hp pumps. BHP is what the pump produces in a split second just when it starts not when its running. My rule of thumb is the HP is half of the BHP. Its pretty close. Its a marketing thing since there is no laws stating only true HP has to be displayed. The 4 HP pumps are probably uprated 3.5 hp pumps. If you have the AMP Rating from the motors I tell you exact was size HP they are

Its not a bad sensor, It give you a SN Error on the spa would never run I disagree - the temp sensor could be sensing the wrong temp. I don't think it will say sn if it's just sensing the wrong temp. Correct me if I'm wrong. The Balboa sensors are not that erratic. At most they will read 3 degrees apart before the board start s giving error messages. Since Balboa started making thier own sensors to failure rate is darn near 0. I can't remember ever replacing sensors that were reading wrong or making erratic spa operation. They either work or don't. The older sensors from the 90's sometimes you could turn them 90 degrees in the housing and the temp reading would change. That is the reason Balboa took them in house. Most Dreammaker spa problems are the GFCI Cords they use. Only had 1 board failure in the 3 years selling them. The new dreammaker spa are coming with consumer engineering products and they have been a pain in the butt. i hope they go back to Balboa

Its not a bad sensor, It give you a SN Error on the spa would never run

I have seen the GFCI plug end cause problems with Dream Maker spas. If it plugged into a GFCI recepatcle you install a regular 15 amp plug. It won't trip the GFCI to shut the tub off but can cause what you are descibing. How old is the spa? If it is new like 3 months they were having problems with the CE Control packs

If the air temp is above 65 degrees the heat pump will work. heat pumps are made to be set and forget. Any pool place should access to them Pentair, Hayward, Jandy all make them.www.aquacal has tons of info on heat pumps. get one that rated with at least 6 cop more efficentcy. Aquacal also used to have a cost program to see what the cost of operation would be. A Heat pump is like a Central AC unit except is heats instead removing heat

Is the relay something that just plugs in, or do I need special tools to replace it. I am not even sure what it looks like. Any Idea of where I can order a replacement? Thanks! The relays are little black box looking things on the pc board. The reason Balboa does not tell people to replace the relay is because of the way the boards are made. They could have layers and unsoldering or soldering parts back in could ruin it. It is best to have it repaired by some one who works on pc boards