JOSH D

use a 2 part expoxy (pool) the come in blk and white or you can melt some pvc w/thinner and create a glue its messy but it works! the 2 part will have to be water free when repairing it. then set 48 hours

I examined the skimmer box for exactly such a thing before I posted - if my skimmer has a knockout, it's still intact. As it turns out, my pool did fill to the very bottom of the liner bead a few nights ago during heavy rains - so I think my builder was blowing smoke. I dropped a section of old garden hose into the pool and siphoned off about 5 inches overnight. But thanks for the reply. wow you don't have a backwash valve. thats one way to get rid of it plus your super cleaning the filter. if you do have a filter that can backwash then do so until desired level is reached. if not that pool bulider should have installed an overflo drain along the tile line. "what are they doing in miss" wow texas codes says drain it into the sewer via the filter backwash.

the reason (straight from the CPO book they tell you 30-50 is cause tri-chlor adds it and bathers remove it via swimsuits and evaporations, or leaks. to much cya leads to mustard algea pool 101

if the main circulation pump is blocked and the filters are not clean the you should see a low flo or in your case a lowered temp. break the unions apart at the pump and see if the impeller is blocked or impedded. always close the slice valves 1st and shut system off (electricaly) or the obvious would to be to set the spa side control up to 104 degrees. the low speed side of the pump will bring the temp down lower after (non-use) often resetting the control to max ie 104 will correct this issue. If that does not solve the issue then check the temp sensor in the well. use a hand held themostat to very degree. josh d lead tech

pro answer first off liquid shock is only 46% booooo cal-hypo is 87% from factory and 67% once it hits the shelf. swimtrine is a copperbased algeacide. shocking and adding a copper based algea side together is this (the copper will fall out of solution) usually staining the pool finsh black (spotted). Use a metal out to reduce algeacide, also a little bit of swimtrine goes a loooooooooooooooonnnnnnnnnnggggg way follow the instructions on the bottle to the tee.

10 year pro here. alot of "electricians specialize in residential housing. I agree it sounds like there is no bonding or a break somewhere on the bonding. if it cannot complete the circuit (ie break in line) the yes you the humaan become the ground. STAY OUT OF POOL UNTIL RESOLVED>

yes my#is 469-233-8365 call me

common vinly pool promblem here. easy fix. you can flock the pool w/ a fluctant agent following directions and the flock. some flocks will need 4-6 hrs circulation the shut the pool off and let the flock settle to the bottom. then vac the flock up and backwash the filter so the flock won't set up inside the filter. follow the direction on the flock. this should clear the pool up. once the pool is clear the TA should correct itself. and since the TA contols the PH the PH should fall into balance after the pool is clear.

common vinly pool promblem here. easy fix. you can flock the pool w/ a fluctant agent following directions and the flock. some flocks will need 4-6 hrs circulation the shut the pool off and let the flock settle to the bottom. then vac the flock up and backwash the filter so the flock won't set up inside the filter. follow the direction on the flock. this should clear the pool up. once the pool is clear the TA should correct itself. and since the TA contols the PH the PH should fall into balance after the pool is clear.

you could re-seal it and paint mosaic tiles. Look at it like this you get the exact tile you want even if it isn't avavilable.

although you no its a metal (test w/ jacks magic tester its a 4 part test designed to target the exact metal. Vac the pool and cln the filter ASAP. after using the jacks magic id test follow the jacks magic program to remove unwanted stains. cuping the stains with muratic acids works to remove stains (plaster pools)ONLY!! beware of lowering the chemical balance in a plaster pools if you take the acid route. although the pool will be crystal clear it will also be very acidic until you rebalance. keep everyone out of the [pool] until you correct the balance.

depends on the filter. often times pump motors are overrated. if you have a small filter than replace the motor with the same 3/4hp. you can buy a full rated motor w an uped service factor of 1.25 or greater this equals about another .25 hp giving you a 1hp for the price of the 3/4hp. if the motor or pump was underrated--for instance you have a larger sgft. filter like 400sgft. cartridge or a fns 60 de than you may want to bump up the hp to something like a 1.5 or 2.0. Beware if you increase the hp more than the full rate you will need to change the impeller and diffuser as well.

the sam light for the pool (pentair) and the sal light (pentair) are good lights although don't be oversold on the RS8. the sam and sal lights are actually on a recepical switch often installed seperate from the RS8 8= eight relays for eight different functions. each relay or has a function 1=pump 2=booster pump 3=aux(whatever you have more ie heater) 4 aux again if you have another function 5=aux again you get the point if you only have 4 functions then alls you need is an RS4. so if you have 8 functions that power of 240/120 volts than you would by an RS8 only count the lights if there standard 300watt(non color) or 500watt pool light (non-color) Also theres more lighting and better effects with the hayward soon the be released 3.0 hayward color logic. They go as far as having multiply light shows ie (football colors for parties) ect. the lighting works with the hayward pro logic automation. Do more research although I like Jandy too there is other automation especially if lighting in the pool is your focus.

This is usually a sign of the 280 giving up. The back up unit is most likely non functioning and the polaris is serioulsy overdue for a tune up. If the unit has been rebuilt already buy a new one. there is a set screw above the tail whip you can screw it in more for more action. and pull the head float back for more crawling action. If upgrading the 480 is the way to go!