muss51

Yes, running it during the day is much better. If your pool is not getting chlorine during the day your levels could drop dangerously low inviting an algae bloom. However, if you have an auto cover that is kept over the pool most of the time then running at night is acceptable.

Try a drain king. Can be easily found at any hardware store. Attach the drain king to your hose and put into suction hole of skimmer. Should unclog anything and get water moving to the pump.

Sounds like a bonding problem to me as well unfortunately. The stray voltage could be coming from anywhere. Even a neighbors house if it is close enough or if the ground is wet. I wouldnt use the pool anymore until this issue is fixed. Very dangerous.

If you are redoing everything else I would go ahead and replace the whole skimmer. It shouldnt be THAT much more expensive. The epoxy resin will work, I have used it MANY times to patch up skimmer cracks, but sometimes it will chip off or erode from the flow of the water passing through the skimmer which means repatching it. Also, if the ENTIRE crack is not thoroughly patched then water can seep behind the crack and if you live in a colder climate, freezing can cause the crack to get larger.

If you are redoing everything else I would go ahead and replace the whole skimmer. It shouldnt be THAT much more expensive. The epoxy resin will work, I have used it MANY times to patch up skimmer cracks, but sometimes it will chip off or erode from the flow of the water passing through the skimmer which means repatching it. Also, if the ENTIRE crack is not thoroughly patched then water can seep behind the crack and if you live in a colder climate, freezing can cause the crack to get larger.

Get a salt system- even using ionization you will still need to use some chlorine

Make sure the contractor- or you (even better)- goes around with a hammer and lightly taps ALL OVER THE POOL. If you hear a hollow spot it needs to be banged out. When they were done plastering did they immediately begin to fill? This MUST be done or you will get cracks from your plaster curing dry.

I completely agree with Paragon. I've encountered many skimmer lines that have needed replacement and over half have used flex. I have seen the stuff collapse on itself, kink, and pull out of fittings. Always use rigid unless absolutely neccessary!

How long has this problem been occuring? Did the pump used to run? Are you sure all circuit breakers and switches are on? When you try to turn it on does it hum?

First- have you been adding alot of water to your pool lately? I ask this because the only way for Cyanuric Acid levels to drop is by dilution. Cyanuric is not broken down by sunlight like chlorine is and does not dissipate over time. Once it is in your water it is there to stay. Second- exactly what kind of liquid test kit are you using? I would not rely too heavily on test strips. They are rarely dead accurate. Usually they can only give you a ball park figure. This is why in some states they are not allowed to test pubic pool water. When did you buy your liquid test kit? If you bought it last august where was it stored? I ask this because if the liquid regents used to test the water freeze they need to be replaced. Third- i have a couple theories. i suspect there truly is chlorine and cya in your pool and that the chlorine level is so high it is screwing up the test results or there is something wrong with your liquid test kit or somehow the test is not being done right (no offense, i promise). I have had calls from customers who check their chemistry themselves about problems and the cause is usually one of these three things. Have you ever had any algae problems? Is your water looking crystal clear? Between what times are you running your salt chlorine generator? Algae can still grow in 65 degree water so if you have not had any problems there is definitely chlorine in the pool.

I dont know why people are being aholes but F em. You can probably do most everything yourself except for the liner. I'd hire someone to do that. As for the third line you'll find out when you put air through em. Usually returns will be T'd underground but not always.

I dont know why people are being aholes but F em. You can probably do most everything yourself except for the liner. I'd hire someone to do that. As for the third line you'll find out when you put air through em. Usually returns will be T'd underground but not always.

I have not heard this at all and I have not encountered any plaster surface problems in any of the pool I work on. Usually the only chemistry problems these have are that they increase the pH because of the CO2 bubbles that are released which aerates the water.

Does shocking a pool have any affect on poly60 algaecide or vice versa? Can you add the two at the same time?

Yeah Super Pumps are VERY EASY to work on and reasonably priced. The intelliflo is closer to $1000 depending on model but will dramatically cut energy consumption. Pump can pay for itself in a few years on energy savings.

Probably the most power friendly is Pentair's Intelliflo pump. It is expensive but can save you 30-90% of the power your old pump used. The one customer I service that has this pump has saved 40% overall. The pump is also very quiet.

The state doesnt check up on these kind of things so I wouldnt worry about it. I service about 50 pools in Montgomery County with about 1/3 having salt systems. NONE of my residential pools have ever been inspected. It is impossible to run these without a salt level of at least 2800ppm.

I would personally recommend a polaris 380 or 180. Both are great but require a booster pump. I have nothing against robots but I have found that repairing them can be costly. Also, this is only a personal preference, I dont want anything in my pool that plugs into a wall. Makes me nervous.

I can help with figuring out your needed BTUs but I need some info. What is the average ambient air temp. during the pool season in your area and what temp. do you want your pool to be at? Do you want to keep your pool at this temp. the entire season or do you only want to heat it up before events, on weekends, etc.? Will you be using a natural gas heater or heat pump? In regards to filters. Sand filters are the easiest to maintain- they only need to be backwashed which is a simple procedure. However, out of the three filter types they only filter particles that are 60 microns in size or larger. Cartridge filters catch 20 micron particles but to clean the filter it must be disassembled so you can manually clean each cartridge. There is absolutely nothing wrong with sand filters- they are the most commonly used. A grain of table salt is 90 microns.

Sounds like you could have any number of problems. Possibilities: Ignition control, thermostat, blower pressure switch. All of these need to be tested.

What is exactly is your free chlorine level, combined chlorine level and your CYA level? Your free chlorine level should be 7.5% of your CYA level. This is because CYA, while stabalizing your chlorine, at high levels makes your chlorine less efficient. If your combined chlorine level is above .5ppm you need to shock.

Yeah, Polaris pool cleaners are great! Im really sorry to hear about your bad experience. Your technician should have used schedule 40 PVC pipe AND should have run a pressure test on the line to make sure it can stand up to high pressures. I would take it up with he/she and demand they take care of you or fix it correctly for free.