Dan.The.Spa.Man

Is it set up the same electrically? What do you have for a breaker setup?

No problem...glad you got it going again without any major problems...enjoy!

No breakers on the inside. I'm not sure about the exported models, but the US models come with a 30 and a 20 amp breaker. The 30 controls the circ pump, jets, lights. The 20 controls the heater (the heater wouldn't turn on if the 30 is off but there would still be power at the main board from the 20 amp breaker) This may be why the electrician saw some degree of power with his test light. On a normal US setup, I would suspect that your 30 amp breaker is not putting power to the tub, but I just don't know if your is set up the same. You would have to use a multi-meter to test voltage where the power enters the board.

I thought you may have been outside the US, that's why I asked about the voltage. Sounds like the exported models have a different electrical setup than what I am familiar with. Anyway, there should be a light on near one of those LED's. Not sure what a RCD is. Is it the same or similar to a standard American GFCI breaker? If it has a test button then try to hit that and see if the breaker snaps off. If you can post pictures of the breaker/RCD setup it may help me...also the wires going into the spa control box as well.

What is the voltage, 220? Are you sure both breakers are on? The 30 and 20? Look into the IQ 2020 control box where the wires are and see if there is a green light on that says 'limit OK' If not, reset the breakers to see if anything comes on, even if it is brief. Very odd that the power light would be completely out. If the electrician didn't use an actual meter to test the breakers and incoming power then they didn't do much good. *****Just remembered something else to check if your model has a stereo***** Look in the control box to see if the 'control unplugged' light is lit. If so the stereo may have a problem and would need to be unplugged from the system to make things work.

If it has the original NoFault6000 heater it has a reset button on the top of the heater itself. There is a small square box on top of the heater. The button is under tape (if the tape is still there). Poke through the tape with a small screwdriver and push the red buttton down. To get the lock off I believe you press both the temp up and down arrow at the same time for five seconds or so until the lock icon disappears. Let me know if you have a different heater with stainless tubes. It could have been replaced with a few different ones over the years. One has a reset, the others don't.

I would check the heater relay board in the main control box. It is the circuit board on the left side where all of the power wires hook into. Look to see if any of the small black relays have any burn marks around them. You can check voltage through the relay if you have a meter.

Yep, I would do all that for $8795.

No, East Coast. Envoy is a great tub though, I would see if they will negotiate on the '07 quite a bit more.

I was hoping some Envoy owners would post their price for you first, but I guess not. I have '08s listed for $8795 but would negotiate from there.

What area of the country are you from? Prices are different all over, so it is all relative to location and the cost of doing business for the particular dealer. I would ask why they have an '07 left in December of '08, seems strange to me. My previous year tubs are sold out by Jan/Feb if that. I guess the answer is that they want over 9K for it, probably why it's still there.

I'm not sure how that filter would be more of a problem for the circ pump? Anyway, yes, there are ALWAYS two filters per jet pump on a Hot Spring. In a way I agree that they may be a problem... of course sellers on Ebay will say anything though. When the Tri-X filters clog, chemically cleaning them doesn't always work, and you need new ones. I can't tell you how many times I have received calls about flashing power lights (and no heat) on HotSpring tubs and the owner said that the filters are fairly new and they just chemically cleaned them. I drive out to the house and sure enough it is the Tri-X filters that are clogged. I think they may be alright if the tub gets minimal adult use, but I see continuous problems with Tri-X filters in tubs that I know have high usage. I use the paper filters in my tub and prefer them over the Tri-X. They do a perfectly fine job of filtering and are a little more forgiving as far as allowing the circulation pump and heater to get enough water to function properly.

Was it a trade in or used? How does a dealer still have an '07 left? I would sell you an '08 in the wrapper for less.

I wouldn't bring them in if they came in today and handed me $100,000 in cash as an incentive.

I have stained the composite cabinets and they come out great. In the owners manual HotSpring actually reccomends doing it every three years or so. I would be a bit nervous about the tub not running for that amount of time, but for $750 I would buy it in a second. Many times the heater or circ pump fail after the tub has sat empty for a while, so don't be surprised if you have to replace either one.

What does the water look like cloudy, green? Do you have a water softener on the house water suply?

Those heater boards started in the 2001 HotSprings. The sensors are only sensitive to within 2 degrees, so if you want it hotter then just turn it up. You should be able to get the tub to 108 with the upper temperature settings on that year. If you want to change them, the method is just as you said.

I don't know a lot about moderating and managing web sites but I think if you put a limit on posting for members so that they can only post every 30 seconds I think it messes up the automatic posts by computer spammers.

One of the big black plugs should have been the heater, so if it still trips with the heater unplugged I would look towards thr GFCI,

A couple possibilities of the top of my head... 1. If you have not had the air-intake valve replaced with a Hartford Loop, that is most likely your problem. The old intake looks like a "T" valve where the new replacement looks like a big "M". The valve is usually located in the upper right hand corner of the equipment compartment. It has (2) 3/4" lines and a 1/8" line coming from it. 2. Mice can do damage but it is not too common. If they did, they usually eat through the air lines which are located up high under the bartop. Let me know if you have the old air-intake and we'll go from there. OK, I do have the "T" as described.......however, it doesn`t appear to have any leaks here. I`d guess the leak is further up the line that disappears into the foam in the upper right corner......out of sight. Yes, it drains out of the front right corner. Change it and go from there.

The warrantry for leaks is 5 years so I'd say 5 years & 1 month is pushing it, 5 & 1/2 years is a bummer, 8 years is unfortunate. My fuel pump went out last month on my car, only 1,550 miles past the warranty. It killed me and I wanted to say "...but its only a little over, isn't there something you can do?". I swalled hard and accepted my fate though it will always kill me that it was sooooo close!!! Last thing I'm going to say on this: What if you went to your dealer to fix your out of warranty fuel pump and he said "Ya, we have had a ton of these come thru out of warranty. It seems the manufacturer installed defective fuel pumps when these cars were all made back in '03. Once they noticed their mistake, they corrected it, but oh well, buddy - too bad for you, cause your out of warranty. Now that's gonna cost ya $1,500 for their mistake". I'm sure you would be just fine with that. Oh, let me guess - you have a GM car, yes? Well to compare evenly, what if the EPA laws changed on how fuel pumps were to be made and all of the car companies had to use fuel pumps from the same fatory at the last minute, and the new fuel pumps were found to fail after 8 years of use (but the car companies don't know this until 6,7,8 years later?) Sounds like the problem occurred due to the fuel pump company and how they made their product (EPA or Glue provider in our case). Sounds to me like the hot tub companies didn't have much of a choice. Knowing that, why would they willingly replace $8000 units for something that they were not directly or knowingly a part of, and could not avoid even if they wanted to? How do you know that your hot water heating element wasn't part of a bad batch...have you gone on a heating element message board to come to your decision that it has simply met it's time, or did you just came up with a time frame that you thought was sufficient? I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota and have found that the clutch fan and blower for the Heat/AC fan have been replaced in thousands of other vehicles and is not covered by warranty. Do I expect them to replace mine for free with 148,000 miles on it. Absolutely not.

A couple possibilities of the top of my head... 1. If you have not had the air-intake valve replaced with a Hartford Loop, that is most likely your problem. The old intake looks like a "T" valve where the new replacement looks like a big "M". The valve is usually located in the upper right hand corner of the equipment compartment. It has (2) 3/4" lines and a 1/8" line coming from it. 2. Mice can do damage but it is not too common. If they did, they usually eat through the air lines which are located up high under the bartop. Let me know if you have the old air-intake and we'll go from there.

Grandee1, Thanks for your input, I'll try to explain why my post may have come across as rude. I have no problem eating the crow and admitting that I was wrong. I was not going to post anything when I initially saw this thread, but once my companies name was mentioned and there were incorrect points posted from a direct conversation that I had, I felt it necessary to respond. I did get a bit fumed up about it, and in hindsight I should have let it pass. I have been on this and other forums for a few years and helped 100's if not 1000's of people with their tubs all for nothing more than the fact that I enjoy it. If you have been in business for 20 years then there is no way that you have not been in some sort of disgreement with a customer and realized later that you should have handled it differently. After meeting with VKB's husband the other day, I realize that they are just good regular folks like most customers and people on here. We were propbably both frustrated with the way the phone conversations were going, and in the end everything worked out fine. I think we all need to grab a towel and head in for a soak.

As I told your husband, I apologize a hundred times over for the confusion and obvious mistake made on our companies part in regards to the wrong subpanel being given out. You were absolutely correct as far as the heating problems with the tub, and I apologize again. The panel that was originally hooked up was intended to be used in a tub that comes 110 volts but is converted to 220 volts. Of course, the Limelight Pulse is a 220volt only model. So in fact there was only 110 volts getting to the heater and it was only pulling 8 amps instead of 16 amps. It is functioning 100 percent fine now and I hope you enjoy the tub.

Well said, I was going to post this exact same thing. On another note: I'm not going to look for the legislation but there was a change made to the PVC solvents due to the VOC's that they contain back in 2000 or 2001. Many calls of leaking spas that I get are indeed from 2001 and are not limited to Watkins. I have taken back 3 'Spa Depot' brand spas this year (to dispose of) after selling new tubs to these customers. I usually try to refurbish and sell tubs like this, but after filling them there were multiple glue joint leaks in all of them. I'm talking about 20 -30 leaks in each. All of them were from 2001.