Salt Water Chlorine Generator

[Mark Davis]

So...the systems are not talked about a lot here, why?

I've read about Nexa, Ozen, Spa Pilot, and Color Chlor (or without color, whatever).

I think the best one is Nexa???

At 1500PPM, is that still very corrosive for most SPAs? I have a Maax 471. The motors are grounded/bonded. The pipes are all plastic. The tub is acrylic.

I love the convenience of the system...

I assume you would turn them off before getting in?

Anyone paranoid about getting electrocuted?

Any good/bad experiences?

Maax said they VOID warranties as a result of concerns about corrosion and "buildup", but then gave me a detailed sales spiel on the crappy options they offer (CleanZone, CheanZone II).

Anyway...I'm still working options, but this seems to give you the convenience of bromine with the safety of chlorine.

Thoughts appreciated.

Regards, -mark

[Nitro]

I'm of the opinion that 3500ppm Salt is not at all corrosive to hot tubs. I've yet to hear anything to the contrary. And yes, I believe Nexa is the better one, mainly because it's more powerful. I'd still have 3500ppm Salt in the tub, because it will create Chlorine faster.

Also, the water passing through the Unit has a high level of Chlorine (shocked). Therefore, I'm thinking it will keep Combined Chlorine (CC) low to zero. However, I think you still have to add Chlorine after soaks, but the unit will hold FC constant.

[Mark Davis]

I'm of the opinion that 3500ppm Salt is not at all corrosive to hot tubs. I've yet to hear anything to the contrary. And yes, I believe Nexa is the better one, mainly because it's more powerful. I'd still have 3500ppm Salt in the tub, because it will create Chlorine faster.

Also, the water passing through the Unit has a high level of Chlorine (shocked). Therefore, I'm thinking it will keep Combined Chlorine (CC) low to zero. However, I think you still have to add Chlorine after soaks, but the unit will hold FC constant.

Hi Nitro-

Really learned a lot from reading your posts...

Anyway...are you running Nexa? I thought it was just 1500PPM? Do you turn it off when entering the spa?

I do worry about the motor, but I just put two new pumps in...wish I knew how the Maax AO Smith 2.5 HP pump was constructed to understand whether it has corrosive metals.

-mark

[Nitro]

Hi Nitro-

Really learned a lot from reading your posts...

Anyway...are you running Nexa? I thought it was just 1500PPM? Do you turn it off when entering the spa?

I do worry about the motor, but I just put two new pumps in...wish I knew how the Maax AO Smith 2.5 HP pump was constructed to understand whether it has corrosive metals.

-mark

Not running anything yet. I'm thinking about trying the Nexa this winter. It recommends only 1500ppm Salt, as others recommend 3500ppm, because it's more powerful. I think I'd still have 3500ppm Salt however. 3500ppm Salt is not that high, and well under sea water levels (35,000ppm). I read where corrosion can happen if your tub is not properly grounded. However, if your tub is not grounded, corrosion is the least of your worries.

[MikeM1]

Not running anything yet. I'm thinking about trying the Nexa this winter. It recommends only 1500ppm Salt, as others recommend 3500ppm, because it's more powerful. I think I'd still have 3500ppm Salt however. 3500ppm Salt is not that high, and well under sea water levels (35,000ppm). I read where corrosion can happen if your tub is not properly grounded. However, if your tub is not grounded, corrosion is the least of your worries.

Nitro I just picked up the Nexa it seems simple enough to setup and operate. I have really hard water where I am at so I will have to fill from the water softener then if it is to soft I will need to add some calcium hardness afterwords. Looks like it is a trial and error process on setting the timer for how often you want it to run. Depending on your individual conditions and how often you use your spa, It can run from 40 to 60 minutes or longer. I read that most just split that time up during the non populated times and adjust over time to your liking. I'll check back after I have used it for awhile and see what others have to say as well.

Mike

[Mark Davis]

Not running anything yet. I'm thinking about trying the Nexa this winter. It recommends only 1500ppm Salt, as others recommend 3500ppm, because it's more powerful. I think I'd still have 3500ppm Salt however. 3500ppm Salt is not that high, and well under sea water levels (35,000ppm). I read where corrosion can happen if your tub is not properly grounded. However, if your tub is not grounded, corrosion is the least of your worries.

Nitro I just picked up the Nexa it seems simple enough to setup and operate. I have really hard water where I am at so I will have to fill from the water softener then if it is to soft I will need to add some calcium hardness afterwords. Looks like it is a trial and error process on setting the timer for how often you want it to run. Depending on your individual conditions and how often you use your spa, It can run from 40 to 60 minutes or longer. I read that most just split that time up during the non populated times and adjust over time to your liking. I'll check back after I have used it for awhile and see what others have to say as well.

Mike

Thanks for posting Mike...

You have to schedule the unit so it is OFF while you are in the water, right?

[MikeM1]

Thanks for posting Mike...

You have to schedule the unit so it is OFF while you are in the water, right?

Hey Mark. The timer has 3 settings On/Off/Auto I have it set on Auto with 3 out of 7 time settings one at 3am 2nd at 9am and the 3rd at 3pm there set to turn it on for 15 minutes each my chlorine is a level is a little low at the moment so i plan to add 5 minutes to each setting and in a couple days I'll check again.

[Mark Davis]

Thanks for posting Mike...

You have to schedule the unit so it is OFF while you are in the water, right?

Hey Mark. The timer has 3 settings On/Off/Auto I have it set on Auto with 3 out of 7 time settings one at 3am 2nd at 9am and the 3rd at 3pm there set to turn it on for 15 minutes each my chlorine is a level is a little low at the moment so i plan to add 5 minutes to each setting and in a couple days I'll check again.

Interesting, thanks. What is the thing comes on while you are in the water? Is that a safety issue?

Can you use N2 + a SWCG?

-mark

[MikeM1]

Interesting, thanks. What is the thing comes on while you are in the water? Is that a safety issue?

Can you use N2 + a SWCG?

-mark

I don't see the device being on as that big a safety issue. It's not like your going to get electrocuted or something like that. If that type of thing might bother you. I would just remember the times you have set and wait 15 to 20 minutes before jumping in. No Idea on N2 + a SWCG?. I would assume you could if there compatible with salt water systems and the program your using for your chemicals. I am using just the chemicals that came in the package deal myself. Non Chlorine shock once a week and some Sea Klear. Nitro might have some thoughts on the topic I would assume.

[Nitro]

Interesting, thanks. What is the thing comes on while you are in the water? Is that a safety issue?

Can you use N2 + a SWCG?

Yes you can, but I'm not sure why you'd want to. I'd consider N2 a backup, unless you're going to go the no Chlorine route (i.e. MPS). However, if you're running a SWCG, you don't really need a backup.

[MikeM1]

Nitro here is a thought for you. Since the Nexa Timer is set to run on a set schedule and it is keeping the Free Chlorine within a set range. Would you need to worry about Cyanuric Acid? My Tub is inside so I don't need to worry about UV Rays and since the FC is always being regenerated one would not need to worry about the Buffer that CYA holds on the FC. Correct?

The other thought is the Combined Chlorine is there a decent test to check that compared to Total Chlorine? Drop test compared to the Stick?

[Nitro]

Nitro here is a thought for you. Since the Nexa Timer is set to run on a set schedule and it is keeping the Free Chlorine within a set range. Would you need to worry about Cyanuric Acid? My Tub is inside so I don't need to worry about UV Rays and since the FC is always being regenerated one would not need to worry about the Buffer that CYA holds on the FC. Correct?

You still need CYA (20-30ppm), otherwise you woud need to keep FC < 1 ppm (not practical), or it would be too strong. Remember CYA not only protects against UV rays, it acts as a Chlorine buffer.

I would still follow the Dichlor/Bleach method. You may still need to add bleach (and/or MPS) during/after soaks, because the SWCG may not keep up while soaking, especially with high bather loads. The main purpose for the SWCG is to keep the FC constant, so you don't have to add bleach when not in use. Allthough I would still test daily until you get it tuned correctly.

The other thought is the Combined Chlorine is there a decent test to check that compared to Total Chlorine? Drop test compared to the Stick?

Yeah, the Taylor K-2006 will measure CC directly.

[MikeM1]

What a pain in the butt trying to get my TA up to 80. I am giving it 2 Tbsp's of baking soda every 30 minutes or so or when I remember. I am at 40 right now and still fighting to get it up to 80. Have gone through 2 one pound boxes of soda and still adding. I have 4 different types of test sticks and they have my TA through the roof. The drop tests I have been using 3 different types all give the same reading of around 40 right now. I started at 10 and it is slowly climbing. what a painful slow process.

Mike

Nitro here is a thought for you. Since the Nexa Timer is set to run on a set schedule and it is keeping the Free Chlorine within a set range. Would you need to worry about Cyanuric Acid? My Tub is inside so I don't need to worry about UV Rays and since the FC is always being regenerated one would not need to worry about the Buffer that CYA holds on the FC. Correct?

You still need CYA (20-30ppm), otherwise you woud need to keep FC < 1 ppm (not practical), or it would be too strong. Remember CYA not only protects against UV rays, it acts as a Chlorine buffer.

I would still follow the Dichlor/Bleach method. You may still need to add bleach (and/or MPS) during/after soaks, because the SWCG may not keep up while soaking, especially with high bather loads. The main purpose for the SWCG is to keep the FC constant, so you don't have to add bleach when not in use. Allthough I would still test daily until you get it tuned correctly.

The other thought is the Combined Chlorine is there a decent test to check that compared to Total Chlorine? Drop test compared to the Stick?

Yeah, the Taylor K-2006 will measure CC directly.

[mcw53]

What a pain in the butt trying to get my TA up to 80. I am giving it 2 Tbsp's of baking soda every 30 minutes or so or when I remember. I am at 40 right now and still fighting to get it up to 80. Have gone through 2 one pound boxes of soda and still adding. I have 4 different types of test sticks and they have my TA through the roof. The drop tests I have been using 3 different types all give the same reading of around 40 right now. I started at 10 and it is slowly climbing. what a painful slow process.

I think your test strips are probably right. Adding 1 ounce of baking soda should raise your TA by 10 ppm +/- depending on spa size. Adding 2 pounds would raise your TA by 320 ppm +/- ... in other words "through the roof".

[MikeM1]

What a pain in the butt trying to get my TA up to 80. I am giving it 2 Tbsp's of baking soda every 30 minutes or so or when I remember. I am at 40 right now and still fighting to get it up to 80. Have gone through 2 one pound boxes of soda and still adding. I have 4 different types of test sticks and they have my TA through the roof. The drop tests I have been using 3 different types all give the same reading of around 40 right now. I started at 10 and it is slowly climbing. what a painful slow process.

I think your test strips are probably right. Adding 1 ounce of baking soda should raise your TA by 10 ppm +/- depending on spa size. Adding 2 pounds would raise your TA by 320 ppm +/- ... in other words "through the roof".

That is what I thought. But from reading here drop tests are more reliable then stick. I guess I will start to lower it some then.

[MikeM1]

I think I have my TA and PH figured out. My PH is hanging around the 7.8 area and my TA is around 50 to 75. Using the Taylor Drop kit everyone likes I read the fine print on testing if you expect a level to be high use the lower volume of water level when your adding water from the tub then times the drops by 25. hence the 50 to 75 guess. I was tickled to know end when I got a reading that was close to the sticks.

I am thinking the way they recommend to do it on the setup sheet is probably the ticket. Keep your salt above 1500 check your TA and keep it between 80-120 keep the PH between 7.2-7.6 and CH between 150-300 use MPS shock before and after each also add in some Sea Klear once a week. Just keep your FC between 1.0 - 3.0

I'll keep on adjusting and let you all know how it goes. I am close to getting it all figured out.

[jtn]

I have a new tub and am using a Technichlor. On the first attempt I used an entire bottle of Metal Gone, a couple of ounces of phosphate remover and clarifier to remove metal before I dumped in the salt. The tub ran for 24 hours and the water stayed chalky white no matter how much shock and clarifier I put in it. I drained the tub and started again with clean water and just salt.

I have 3500ppm and the generator is working and has been for the past 20 hours. When I use test strips it shows NO chlorine and a slightly high pH. I brought down the pH with some white vinegar, but still no indicated chlorine. Also, the water is crisp, but has a slight green "tint" to it.

I would like to avoid dumping all kinds of chemicals in the spa.

What am I doing wrong?

[simonc]

I have a new tub and am using a Technichlor. On the first attempt I used an entire bottle of Metal Gone, a couple of ounces of phosphate remover and clarifier to remove metal before I dumped in the salt. The tub ran for 24 hours and the water stayed chalky white no matter how much shock and clarifier I put in it. I drained the tub and started again with clean water and just salt.

I have 3500ppm and the generator is working and has been for the past 20 hours. When I use test strips it shows NO chlorine and a slightly high pH. I brought down the pH with some white vinegar, but still no indicated chlorine. Also, the water is crisp, but has a slight green "tint" to it.

I would like to avoid dumping all kinds of chemicals in the spa.

What am I doing wrong?

jtn -

I noticed that you are new to this forum. I suggest you post your question as a separate thread. Maybe with a title like ... "Need help with Salt Walter Chlorine Generator". By putting your question inside of someone else's thread, as you have done, it is less likely to be noticed.

That said ... I'm not sure you'll get much help on the subject of salt water systems in this forum. I've had a thread running for about a week asking for advice on what type of generator to get for my tub. I've hardly gotten any response ... yet. For whatever reason, there don't seem to be many forum members with these types of systems. I'm curious as to why.

Good luck ...

- Simon

[MikeM1]

Simon. I am thinking since it is a spa instead of a pool that most haven't felt the need to experiment with salt systems for Spa's yet. I am waiting for Winter to show up so we can get a topic going with Nitro if he ever decides to get a Nexa system himself.

[MikeM1]

The water in my Hot Tub is clear and tests good finally! The test strips now give a close idea of what the average is and the Taylor kit when using the 10ml sample does about the same. but when I turn the jets on now it clouds up with a million oxygen bubbles I haven't found any posts that talk about this but one. Could it be my water is to soft? The test strips say it's in the 250 Plus range but the Taylor kit say's it's in the low hundreds. any suggestions?