2005 Arctic Yukon Spa

[ff92]

Greetings all, just found this site. It's my fault, but I routinely drain the spa in April to sit empty outside for the summer months, we only use it in the winter up here in Canada. Every year I find more and more leaks. Usually it's the o-rings behind the jet flanges, the caustic water turns them to dust. I think I've got them all out and replaced with silicone after this season though. This year I spotted a leak from the pump. Because I suspected some hardship with seizing and whatnot I decided to order a new wet end before I even removed the original pump/motor. With that being said, I would still like to remove the original wet end from the pump without destroying it. I removed the plug from the back of the motor, put a large common screwdriver in the slot and a strap wrench on the impeller. Sure enough it won't free up. Is the impeller threaded on for certain? Does the new wet end come assembled so I have to disassemble to put the whole unit together? It's an Executive 56.

Thanks for the enlightenment.

Kelly

[Spa_Guru]

The impeller is threaded RH threads, (lefty-loosy) and will likely break when you remove it, if there is corrosion on the shaft of the motor, it tends to split the impeller shaft shield.

[ff92]

The impeller is threaded RH threads, (lefty-loosy) and will likely break when you remove it, if there is corrosion on the shaft of the motor, it tends to split the impeller shaft shield.

Great, thanks. When the new wet end arrives is it assembled or in pieces for assembly onto the motor?

[Spa_Guru]

Clean the pump shaft of all corrosion, I usually rap it with the edge of a file, then run the motor (disconnect your heater) and hold sandpaper against the shaft to clean it up. Make sure the threads are clean, use a triangular file to dress them if needed.

The wet end is usually in one piece, you thread the impeller on with your fingertip as far as you can, then install the four thru bolts loosly, then tighten them. The impeller will tighten completely the first time you turn on the pump.

[ff92]

Great, thanks for your advice.

Kelly

[Spa_Guru]

If there is any corrosion on the end frame of the pump, or the shaft does not turn completely free, you should replace the pump berings.

I can walk you thru it if it comes to that, you will need a 3 claw puller.

[ff92]

Right on, will let you know, thanks.

[ff92]

Hello Guru. I finally received the new wet end for my tub. First question, should I grind off the rough casting in the plastic in the throat of the volute? Second question, you recommend I simply put my fingers inside the intake and thread the impeller on, then let the motor do the rest? Looking forward to your guidance again.

Kelly

[Spa_Guru]

Don't sweat the excess plastic, for threading on the impeller, if you have cleaned the motor shaft, squirt a little wd-40 or put a drop of motor oil on the threads, and thread the impeller on by holding the back of the motor shaft with a wrench or screwdriver, thread it on as tight as you can with just that, bolt down your wet end, and reinstall the pump. The split second you turn on the pump, it will tighten the impeller the rest of the way.

[ff92]

Ok, thank you very much.

[ff92]

After many swings with the hammer and chisel I finally got the original impeller and wet end off. Please tell me the motor shaft is designed to be tapered and not oxidized away. I am not positive but I think I hear a light drag when I spin the shaft by hand, but it comes from the backside of the motor if that's possible.

[Spa_Guru]

The motor shaft is not supposed to be tapered, if your pump has been leaking long enough to corrode it that much, you need to change out the motor bearings or it will make noise guaranteed.

[Spa_Guru]

Post front and back photos of your pump, I'll walk you thru this.

[ff92]

The shaft looks so uniformly tapered that it's hard for me to believe it corroded that way. This is turning into a PITA, check the replacement mount kit size versus the original. Only way it lines up with the base is if I index it 90 degrees from the existing studs..... Do I flip the tub on it's side and drill new holes for new studs? Anyway, one problem at a time.

[Spa_Guru]

Scratch the frint end frame to casing as well for re-alighnment.

Remove the armeture and front end frame completely from the motor casing, avoid striking the plastic parts on anything.

[Spa_Guru]

Work your way around the end frame tapping gently with your hammer, it will come off

Avoid damaging the centrifugal switch at the back of the shaft by dropping the armeture.

[Spa_Guru]

There are no motor brushes to worry about.

[ff92]

You're awesome.

[ff92]

Bearings look/feel/sound smooth.

[Spa_Guru]

[ff92]

Top notch guidance, thanks for the procedural tips, pictures are the best method of conveying information. Now I've got to find bearings and wait 3-4 weeks to get them.

Kelly

[ff92]

Do you know off hand the bearing numbers and where to get them quickly? My dealer is 150 miles away.

[ff92]

Found them, should be an easy find, common size. How about the bolts to mount the pump, anybody ever changed them out?

[Spa_Guru]

Do you know off hand the bearing numbers and where to get them quickly? My dealer is 150 miles away.

Have a close look at the bearing race or bering seal, you will probably see 6203 or 6204, if they are 6203's you can get them at an auto parts store, the 6203 is also a Toyota pilot bearing, and GM alternator bearing. Make certain they are double seal style, and that the internal diameter of the race is correct, as 6203 bearings can have differing IDs, don't forget to put your screw retainer on the front of the shaft first, and the correct way up.

When reinstalling a bearing, press or drive against only the inside race. If you use a punch, make certain it is soft steel or brass and work your way back and forth and it will go on smoothly, you will feel it bottom out.

[ff92]

Yes, 6203LH NTN which my local autoparts store cross referenced to SKF 6203-2RSJ. Calipers say both ID and OD are the same. Thanks guru, without your guidance I wouldn't have attempted this teardown.