Light Leaking In '05 Marquis Epic

[spanorth]

I filled up my new tub on Friday, to check for leaks before didn't connect it to power yet and there's a leak! But, I think I might know where it's coming from...the light under the waterfall. The water was coming from under the tub on the side of this light. I drained the tub down below the light and the leak has completely stopped. Of course, the water level is now down below several jets and the filter housings,as well, so it could be any one of them, but I don't see anything as obvious as the light.

There is a video below of how I noticed that this might be the problem.

There are 2 lights in this tub one on the waterfall side (opposite the equipment compartment) and one accessible in the equipment compartment. It appears the lights just screw into the housing and sandwich against the shell. The local dealer didn't have them, couldn't even find a part number on Saturday. I'll call and talk to a tech today. I found them online http://thespaworks.com/parts/marquis-spa-parts/marquis-spa-electrical-parts/marquis-spa-light-kit-assembly-less-cord'>here. It seems that there is no way to do this from inside the tub, so I have to get inside the shell. Given the location of this light, it looks like a real pain to get to. Since it's tucked right between and behind the filter housings. Of course it's also buried in foam.

My questions:

1. Is it better to access the light from the bottom or side?

2. Any special tools available to get on the nut collar behind the shell, that will make this much easier?

3. After I tear out the foam what's the best product to re-foam it with? I have a great stuff "pro gun" and I was thinking of filling it with the "window and door" type foam, since it's more flexible than the "standard" great stuff foam.

Here is a video of how I noticed that this might be the problem. You can see the seal is not tight at the edge or the light.

This is the leaking light. Tough location I think.

Same light, you can see the side is full foam and it's like that all the way to the base.

Here's a pic of the same light on the other side. The locking collar on this one is cracked so I'll replace it as well.

[Spa_Guru]

Getting to the back side of the light isn't going to be as tough as you think, first of all the foam is light weight, it will come out just by digging by hand, secondly, they usually put fiberglass insulation around the light instead of foaming all the way to it.

It is easiest to chip off the face of the lens with a hammer and screwdriver than to try to unscrew it. Just push it out towards the foam once you have chipped the face off.

Don't refoam in this location, often the foam will expand, and caught between the filter housings and shell it will literally tear your filter cannisters off, so just re-insulate with fiberglass insulation.

[Spa_Guru]

When you refill the tub, leave the area around the filter cannisters clear so you can check for additional leaks, usually light leaks are very minor, not the cause of any serious loss of water, what is likely is one of four scenarios common to this type of tubof this age.

1) Your heater gaskets are leaking and need replaced, the water runs out onto the bottom plastic pan and just flows to the low spot.

2) Your drain plug threads on your pump have failed, and you are leaking from there with the same result.

3) Your cannister for your mineral and bromine is cracked - you may not have this option on your spa.

4) Your filter cannister to spa shell seal is leaking,

If the problem is #1, gaskets are readily available at almost any spa shop, very universal.

If the problem is #2, replace the plug with a 1/2 NC bolt with teflon on the threads, but do not thread the bolt in past where it bottoms on the plastic, about 1/4"

If the problem is #3, remove the paneling in this area, the cannister is about 3" in diameter and a couple feet tall, it has one 3/4" line coming into the bottom, and one up high on the side. You will need to buy a cannister kit like the one on this page;

http://www.cnytubs.com/hot-tubs-central-new-york/emerald-spas/emerald-spa-parts.html

Product ID: E40028500

If you are replacing this cannister, I'll post a simple step-by step that will help you get it done in 30-40 min w/o draining the spa.

If the problem is #4, I'll post a simple step-by step that will help you get it done in 30-40 min w/o draining the spa, let me know.

[spanorth]

Spa Guru that's awesome advice! I'll replace the light this weekend and fill it to see if anything else is leaking. You are right about the heater gaskets. One did have a tiny drip which made a small puddle in the plastic pan of the equipment area. A little hand tightening of the ring stopped it (for now anyway), but I'll go ahead and replace those while I am at it. Thanks so much for the tips. Stay tuned...

[Spa_Guru]

You have shutoff valves on the main pipes and also on the ozone line on the upper left hand side of the equipment bay, when replacing the heater gaskets plan on also undoing the union at the top of the pump, and coat the new heater gaskets with 100% silicon sealant (not on the threads) and get a new pump union o-ring while you are at it, if you cannot locate a pump o-ring, remove the old one, coat it with silicon, and reinstall it.

When reassembling, right hand gasket first, use the silicon to make it stick to the PVC, then insert the left hand gasket and pump o-ring, assemble hand tight, then tighten --- but don't get crazy tightening or you will just break stuff.

REMEMBER TO OPEN YOUR VALVES!

[spanorth]

When you refill the tub, leave the area around the filter cannisters clear so you can check for additional leaks, usually light leaks are very minor, not the cause of any serious loss of water, what is likely is one of four scenarios common to this type of tubof this age.

1) Your heater gaskets are leaking and need replaced, the water runs out onto the bottom plastic pan and just flows to the low spot.

2) Your drain plug threads on your pump have failed, and you are leaking from there with the same result.

3) Your cannister for your mineral and bromine is cracked - you may not have this option on your spa.

4) Your filter cannister to spa shell seal is leaking,

If the problem is #1, gaskets are readily available at almost any spa shop, very universal.

If the problem is #2, replace the plug with a 1/2 NC bolt with teflon on the threads, but do not thread the bolt in past where it bottoms on the plastic, about 1/4"

If the problem is #3, remove the paneling in this area, the cannister is about 3" in diameter and a couple feet tall, it has one 3/4" line coming into the bottom, and one up high on the side. You will need to buy a cannister kit like the one on this page;

http://www.cnytubs.com/hot-tubs-central-new-york/emerald-spas/emerald-spa-parts.html

Product ID: E40028500

If you are replacing this cannister, I'll post a simple step-by step that will help you get it done in 30-40 min w/o draining the spa.

If the problem is #4, I'll post a simple step-by step that will help you get it done in 30-40 min w/o draining the spa, let me know.

#1 One side had the tiniest drip. Gaskets replaced.

#2 Doesn't seem to be an issue, right now.

#3 I do have this option, but it doesn't seem to be an issue, right now

#4 After refiling to check the new light seals, one of the filter canisters is indeed leaking. I lowered the level of the spa, back down below where the canister penetrates the spa shell and leak stopped. I'd love to see those instructions for fixing this leak! I took the deco ring cover off to expose the screws and I see the edge of the rim is cracked. I suspect I'll need a whole new canister...does replacing the whole canister change your 30-40 minute fix? I'm afraid it might....

[Spa_Guru]

[Spa_Guru]

The two top covers, when removed, will expose the screws fastening them down.

You want to remove the insulation from all the way around both filters, and 18" or so along the suction pipes leading to them.

Remove all of the screws, they may be screws only, or nut/bolt combinations.

At this point the filters can be gently pushed upwards about 1/2" from below using a board and fulcrum, work carefully, you don't need to come up much.

Using a 2 ft piece of nylon rope, loop it over each canister one at a time, and rub the old silicon off as much as you can.

The space between the canisters and the outside of the shell is pretty tight, you won't get fingers in there, so the rope works.

Once the surfaces are as clean and dry as possible, take 100% clear silicon in a caulking gun and attach a flexible tube about 1 ft long to it.

Use the tube to inject the silicon on the gap between the canisters and shell, the flexible tube will come in handy to work in the tight spots.

Use a lot, it's cheap.

Once the silicon is in place, let the filters back down, and reinstall all of the screws.

Wipe off the excess and place some of it over the screw heads, then reinstall the two covers.

[spanorth]

Well so far so good. She's been holding water for about 6 hours now! This was a slick process. How you do it in 40 minutes, I'll never know, but that's why your a pro and I'm a hack! I was really pleased with how much silicone I was able to get out with the rope method. I feel like I got it cleaned really really well. I thought I had a method figured out to pump silicone under the flange, but I just couldn't get the silicone to flow through the tube very well. I ended up fumbling around with this part trying to find another bigger tube, but I couldn't get it to work right, so I ended up packing it in with a putty knife, which would have been fine from the start, but the silicone started to skin up on me a bit because I took so much time with the tube. I suspect the silicone might have been old, so that might have contributed to the lack of flow. I just hope she stays sealed up for a few years...I really don't want to do that job again, anytime soon!

I got the temporary electrical line run and connected and it fired right up. Everything seems to be working well. Now I need to figure out the chemicals...but that's another thread. Thanks again!

[Spa_Guru]

You are welcome, PM me your email and I'll shoot you my chem care sheets.