gribley Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Ok so I DO have a Master Spa....stop the flaming before it begins...it was at the house when I bought it. I have sveral different eror codes from DR to LF to OHH to HFL. Here's what happens. Power turned on at breaker...the tub goes through the priming stage and apparently everything is OK...the circ pump seems to run fine. The tub goes through the startup of running Pump 1 and Pump 2...it calls for heat...the light stays on...then the pump 1 and 2 turn off. The circ pump continues to run for a bit (a few minutes at best) and then stops...within about 10 seconds or less...the display says HFL (indicating the sensor A and B have differences between their temps)...then it either goes to DR or LF...the circ pump remains off... AFter a while...whenever a button is presses ont he control panel...the circ pump starts again...it calls for heat and then it quits again.... I am in a quandry...is it the SENSORS A and B that are turning off the circ pump or is my pump going (slowly) causing the LF, DR and HFL codes?? Is it something else.... I have run with and without filters. I have drained and started everything over. I have turned it off and back on at the breaker several times.... I have yet to check the voltage at the back of the circ pump...after it quits running..... Suggestions...and thanks for reading... Gribley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gribley Posted October 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 it eventually always goes t an OHH code...overheating in the heater itself...as it calls for heat and has nothing to move the water...which the circ pump is supposed to do... What makes a circ pump run and then just shut off....when it does run...it runs well....I out my hand in the filter compartment and there is serious suction going on there... Any suggestions or help s appreciated....Thanks in advance!!! Gribley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gribley Posted October 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 I know I am new here but no responses?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Here's a few things: The spa tests the temp sensors on start-up. If they're out of range by just a few degrees (of eachother) it shows an error code, and it will not energize the heater. So the temp sensors are likely fine. Assuming the circ pump is working properly, and the water really is getting hot on one end of the heater, it sounds like a flow issue... it could be some hardness on the element is touching a sensor- that subsequently overheats and throws a code. There is also a valve on the bottom of the filter that my be broken, and even though the circ pump is drawing water, it may be plumbed in such a fashion that no water is moving over the heater. It could be something else entirely, like a temp sensor might be just a tiny bit out of range, but not enough to trigger a code until the heater begins to heat... Unfortunately, you have an issue that's very hard to troubleshoot based on the description... If the spa has a test mode dip switch, shut down the power, flip it (the test mode dip/sw) on, the turn the power back on... then hit the light button- then the temp up or down button. It should start showing you what sensor A= , followed by what sensor B = , and might give some insight into what's happening as the heater energizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_BWG Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 If you have a Balboa spa control system we have a list of our topside panel messages and error codes over on our websites which may help in diagnosis and repair: http://balboadirect.com/spa-panel-messages.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gribley Posted October 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 I took it all a part today... Sensors A/B are the same in test mode...took circ pump out...it looks clean and the impeller moves but seems a little stiff..it not like it spins freely but it moves ok I looked inside heater...no build up of any kind... Put it all back together and no circ pump at all now... The only other thing I did see is that the lines to the ozone generator seem "cloudy"...I don't know if that means anything... Circ pump is a Laing Think it's the pump (?).... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreservedSwine Posted October 27, 2012 Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 If the pump is getting voltage, and it doesn't spin- yes, the pump needs replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gribley Posted November 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 ordered a new pump...took out old...installed new...direct replacement from manufacturer...but it now has a seperate ground on the case of the pump...I used a solid piece of copper wire and connected it to the ground block..when power is applied the circuit pops immediately...all connections are tight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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