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Repairing Cracked / Split Shell


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Last night I was soaking happily in my tub. Then my wife joined me ;) . As she climbed in (as usual) there was a loud CRACK, and I could hear water escaping. I quickly shut off the power then opened the drain valve. I could see a foot long crack had opened up on one of the seat areas. I layed a sheet of polythene over the crack to slow the leak to try and prevent water drowning the pumps.

This morning I opened up the sides and it looks like the motors didn't get wet (phew).

The tub is about nine years old, I am guessing the construction is molded acrylic with fibreglass reinforcement behind. It is an Aegean LPS220, which is a UK supplier, but I'm guessing it is a US model, rebranded.

I am familiar with fibreglass repairs, and have repaired gel coat before. I was planing on repairing the crack by grinding it open a bit on the wet side (with a dremel) and stop drilling then using plast aid to fill the acrylic. Then patching with several layers of fibreglass on the dry side.

The dry side of the tub is sprayed with a foam insulation, it does not seem to be very thick, but is very dense. Obviously to make a good fibreglass repair I need to remove this insulation and sand back to sound fibre glass. What is the best way to remove this insulation? How big an area beyond the crack should I apply the fibreglass repair?

I'm also thinking I may add additional support under the shell at this point to prevent future cracks. What do you think?

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grind back at least 4 in on each side of the crack..and at the ends, drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it from continuing.

just grind that foam off.

An epoxy resin would be best to use it will bond to any resins since you do not know what was used to originally build it..

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A small wire wheel in a drill motor can make fast work of the foam. I usually start by scraping as much off with a dulled tool such as a pry-bar, then the wire wheel to get the surface clean enough for the new materials to stick to it.

56238.jpg

HTH

B)

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