New Spa Owner

[scotts4050]

Hey guys,

New owner of a 2003 Sundance Cameo here (I'm new, not the spa.) I am in the process of getting it set up and running. I would like some advice on chemical start up kits. I have read over the forum and will be doing a decontamination, then going with the dichlor/bleach method of satitization after balancing. Does anyone have a suggestion for a decent start up kit? Or would I be better off buying products individually? This is my first spa, but I have owned pools in the past, so I have a little experience but not much. I did order a Taylor K-2006 test kit as recommended in this forum.

Any suggestions or advice would be greatly apprieciated.

[chem geek]

If you are unsure whether or not the spa has biofilms or grease or organics in the piping, then get Spa System Flush for when you do the decontamination procedure. After that procedure and a drain/refill you will balance the spa with chemicals as follows.

You would first add some Dichlor into the spa to get some chlorine into it.

Unless your Calcium Hardness (CH) is already high or around 120-150 ppm then you will need some calcium chloride to increase the CH.

For the Dichlor-then-bleach method, you might need to add acid and aerate to lower the Total Alkalinity (TA) to around 50 ppm if you find that the pH tends to rise and then after lowering the TA you'll need 50 ppm Borates which you can get from boric acid or from ProTeam Gentle Spa though some report that this isn't as pH neutral as it is supposed to be (another alternative would be 20 Mule Team Borax and Muriatic Acid).

Then do any fine tuning adjustment of the pH and you're good to go.

After that it'll just be Dichlor (for around a week -- cumulatively adding around 33 ppm FC to get to around 30 ppm CYA) and thereafter bleach added after every soak (and in between soaks if you don't soak every day or two). You'll add acid as needed to keep the pH down. That's about it unless the TA gets very low in which case a little baking soda will bring that up.

[Even Further]

I started new about 9-10 months ago. 1st used the Dichlor method, but found it was too much activity for my busy work/life schedule. Bromine is much less hassle, and very easy since you can use a dispensing floater. I can leave my tub alone for up to 7 days (maybe longer if I ever try) and return with clear water and good sanitizer level with Bromine. I could leave the Dichlor for a few days (2-3) at very best. I tried 2 times to leave the tub alone for 4-5 days, but came to find cloudy water with bad sanitizer level. Shocking cleared it right up, but it just more hassle in comparison.

I went with a Color Q Pro 7 water test kit. It has a digital photometer that proved a numeric value. Comparing to the pool/spa supply store many times, it has proved to be accurate. It does both Chlorine and Bromine.

I buy filters on Amazon (Amazon Prime Rocks!!!)

1 for in-use, 1 for being able to take my time cleaning so I just swap back'n forth when changing.

I buy Chems from Spadepot.com (smooth ordering, good pricing, and quick shipping process)

I've had good results using Spa Choice brand sanitizers on SpaDepot. The product seems fresh, not some dusty stuff on the shelf.

I buy main spa parts from Pool Spa Supply .com, pool-spa-supply.com (PSS).

[Steve the Plumber]

Hi

I've had spas for over 15 years I'd use bromine, chlorine, Nature2, Frog, and then back to bromine. Now the last year I been using clear water blue it is Very easy to use and there is no odor. Once you're up and running you only need to check it every 2 weeks and use a non chlorine oxidizing shock after each use . The kit comes with the step by step start up and maintenance guide.

My advice is to stay away from chlorine as your main sanitizer. Chlorine gas is off and it will deteriorate your covers very fast. Yeah I said covers make sure you use two covers a floating cover and your hard cover. The floating cover will protect your hard cover from getting water logged, save energy also and if you do use chlorine or bromine the floating cover will slow down the gas off of those chemicals and protect your hard cover.