Coast Spas Dual Motor Setup Trouble

[BlanderBlast]

Hello all,

I just purchased a house and with it came a hot tub ! Great I thought, well until now. Ok I'll try to give you the full story so you have as much info as possible. The couple left the hot tub running when I arrived on moving day 101 degrees or so. The first thing I noticed was it was filthy (yellow scum around the top) and that there were 3 blinking lights below the temperature (an error code). I'm completely new to hot tubs,just so you know, but I'm very mechanically inclined.

What I need to know is if this setup is correct? Refer to Pics

http://s1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc513/BlanderBlast/?action=view&current=IMG_0046.jpg[/img]

Go through the whole album

Ok now first off when I hit pump 1 on the control panel the pump on the right starts, hit it again and it goes into high speed and the jets go very strong on the Left side of the tub

Ok now hit pump 2 and the pump on the left starts up and the 3 flashing dots go away !! As soon as pump 2 shuts off (I think it automatically shuts off after 20 min or so) the 3 flashing lights come back on

Talking to the dealer on the phone he said this is backwards and that pump 1 should be 2 speed which it is, but running through the heater tube instead of pump 2 ???? I don't have a clue how that would've got screwed up unless the previous owner actually physically switched the motors for some reason ??

Thats probably enough info for now anyways but I really appreciate anyones help on this issue.

I really don't wanna have to call a service tech at $95 an hour.

Thanks BA

[Pathfinder]

Im gonna guess that pump2 is plugged into plug one and pump 1 is plugged into plug 2. I cant remember if the plug ends are the same on that pack. If they arent then you'll have switch the cords around. Both pumps are 2 speed but pump 1 on the left is your pump for circulating and heating so it is backwards

[BlanderBlast]

I tried that because the ends are the same as you mentioned. So with it hooked up that way the pump on the left is pump 1 but it only has a slow speed if you push pump 1 button again you can hear it click for high speed but the motor doesn't change speeds. Pump 2 is of course on the right now and works only on slow speed also. I think pump 2 is only supposed to be one speed (judging by the lack of "low/high" on the pump 2 button). Now I should mention that no matter which way I hook it up the heater indicator has a dot below it. The problem is it doesn't heat or if it does it takes like 2 days to get up to temp from like 70. Something is defiantly wrong and was wrong as soon as I got the house. Just trying to figure it out without breaking the bank. I've also tried the filter in and out just to make sure its not a clogged filter.

Thanks for your help so far.... I really appreciate it !!

BA

[Pathfinder]

Ok, so with that figured out the most economical solution would be to switch pumps. The Left pump looks pretty new & im guessing for some strange reason a single speed pump was put instead of a dual. You can tell it was worked on with that primer covered "U"turn on the right side. The wet end outputs should line up. To find out the error codes you need to find out what year & then find an owners manual.

[BlanderBlast]

I also tried that, but the problem is the wet ends don't line up. Not without alot of hose strain which is no good either. They are two different brands of pumps and are off by a little bit. The other thing I'm debating on trying is taking the pumps off the motors and switching the motors to opposite pumps. I just don't know if I wanna get into that when its -18 out! and what if I have trouble getting the impeller off the motor shaft (which I think I will on the pump to the right cause it looks all rusty around there) What about the no heat also, right now I have the pump on the right running 24/7 to keep the water from freezing (just the heat transfered from the motor and pump) it keeps it around 66. Should I just say screw it and drain the thing and wait till spring to toy with it?? I really don't want to cause this is the season I love hot tubs, but at the same time I can't leave this setup running the whole time otherwise my hydro bill is gonna be ridiculous. Maybe the no heat is because there is not enough flow which wouldn't open the pressure switch, maybe once I switch the 2 speed motor to the pump on the left it will start heating again. I do think the motor on the right is a bigger motor too, (hp) so it would make more sense on the left with it having to draw through the filters and such.?

Anyways I gotta get this mess figured out soon !!

Thanks for your help so far, keep your input coming though (I need it)

BA

[david_bilton]

I also tried that, but the problem is the wet ends don't line up. Not without alot of hose strain which is no good either. They are two different brands of pumps and are off by a little bit. The other thing I'm debating on trying is taking the pumps off the motors and switching the motors to opposite pumps. I just don't know if I wanna get into that when its -18 out! and what if I have trouble getting the impeller off the motor shaft (which I think I will on the pump to the right cause it looks all rusty around there) What about the no heat also, right now I have the pump on the right running 24/7 to keep the water from freezing (just the heat transfered from the motor and pump) it keeps it around 66. Should I just say screw it and drain the thing and wait till spring to toy with it?? I really don't want to cause this is the season I love hot tubs, but at the same time I can't leave this setup running the whole time otherwise my hydro bill is gonna be ridiculous. Maybe the no heat is because there is not enough flow which wouldn't open the pressure switch, maybe once I switch the 2 speed motor to the pump on the left it will start heating again. I do think the motor on the right is a bigger motor too, (hp) so it would make more sense on the left with it having to draw through the filters and such.?

Anyways I gotta get this mess figured out soon !!

Thanks for your help so far, keep your input coming though (I need it)

BA

i use to be a coast spa factory tech(8 years) what you have is a new style 48 frame pump/wet end on the left and the original pump/wet end on the right they should cross over with a little help.the 3 dots are a flow issue thing the spa pak knows that the pump is working yet detects no flow.pump 2 plugs into the one with the red wire cut and capped off. MY personal feelings about a coast spa is sell it and buy beer.if you are going to drain it take a wet/dry vac to it and vac/blow ALL the jets and suctions to get all the water out.as for motor size they should both be the same size(amps and impeller)

[BlanderBlast]

OK,

So I broke down and called in a tech at $95 an hour. I was there when he came and this is what we found. He replaced the heater element because he thought thats what it was. Wrong !! still same code and not pulling any amps for the heater. He then took a close look at the circuit board and bam !! a burn mark with some black soot around the heater relay. So he said thats it but he didn't have one in his truck. So I went and picked one up the next day and put it in myself (he wanted $140 just for install). He charged me $40 for the heater element and one hour labour which I didn't think was too bad because he was actually there for more like 2. Anyways back to my problem, so I put a new board in buts its a little different. He had the board all layed out for me when I went in the store so its supposed to be the right one. Everything works fine except the heater still doesn't work (3 dots flashing on display). There is no led lit up on the board so its not a High Limit error and I replaced the pressure switch right after I put the board in and got these dots. Still flashing ggggrrrrrrr!!!!! The other thing is the light doesn't work when u press it once its flashes under the light icon and hit it again and the icon stays lit up on the the keypad but it never comes on. Any Ideas?

I'm going to be calling these people tommorow about this because I don't know how much more I can replace! The board I had was SSPA-1-P122-P212-O1-LS-H5.5-JJM-RL-CC2

The board I replaced it with is B-SC-MP-P12-P21-O-L-IR-U-CC5

Thanks BA

[david_bilton]

OK,

So I broke down and called in a tech at $95 an hour. I was there when he came and this is what we found. He replaced the heater element because he thought thats what it was. Wrong !! still same code and not pulling any amps for the heater. He then took a close look at the circuit board and bam !! a burn mark with some black soot around the heater relay. So he said thats it but he didn't have one in his truck. So I went and picked one up the next day and put it in myself (he wanted $140 just for install). He charged me $40 for the heater element and one hour labour which I didn't think was too bad because he was actually there for more like 2. Anyways back to my problem, so I put a new board in buts its a little different. He had the board all layed out for me when I went in the store so its supposed to be the right one. Everything works fine except the heater still doesn't work (3 dots flashing on display). There is no led lit up on the board so its not a High Limit error and I replaced the pressure switch right after I put the board in and got these dots. Still flashing ggggrrrrrrr!!!!! The other thing is the light doesn't work when u press it once its flashes under the light icon and hit it again and the icon stays lit up on the the keypad but it never comes on. Any Ideas?

I'm going to be calling these people tommorow about this because I don't know how much more I can replace! The board I had was SSPA-1-P122-P212-O1-LS-H5.5-JJM-RL-CC2

The board I replaced it with is B-SC-MP-P12-P21-O-L-IR-U-CC5

Thanks BA

google up GECKO Electronics and go to the contact us put in your issue and wait they are Canadian French so it may take some time to get back to you they make the board so they should have the answer yet it sound like a a pin placement thing wecome to the world of a coast spa owner good luck you are going to need it and remember C-4( or simtex) will fix anything

[Pathfinder]

OK,

So I broke down and called in a tech at $95 an hour. I was there when he came and this is what we found. He replaced the heater element because he thought thats what it was. Wrong !! still same code and not pulling any amps for the heater. He then took a close look at the circuit board and bam !! a burn mark with some black soot around the heater relay. So he said thats it but he didn't have one in his truck. So I went and picked one up the next day and put it in myself (he wanted $140 just for install). He charged me $40 for the heater element and one hour labour

Find yourself another service company after this. They obviously have techs that dont know what they're doing. The "tech" should have done a couple simple basic tests with a volt meter before the "replace fix" method & your issue would have been found immediately instead of it taking 2hrs.

[BlanderBlast]

Ok I fixed everything now !! The transformer on the board ended up being loose when I got the board. Theres 3 screws that hold it on and I noticed it was loose (very annoying for a new board) as soon as I tightened that boom everything works !!

Thanks for all your help !!

BA