Hayward Chlorinator Question

[BillinKingstonSprings]

I currently have a Hayward Chlorine Feeder inline with my sand filter. It is approximately 5 years old and I have had to replace the top cover gasket a couple of times. The last time was mid 2009 and it started leaking again right before I closed the pool last fall. Has anyone seen this before where a new gasket fails so soon? I can replace it again but if it will continue to occur should I just replace the Hayward Feeder with a new one or should I just replace the cover? Also what about the Nature 2 chemical feeder would it be a smart upgrade or should I just wait and install a salt system? I don't like hassling with the pool once it is open so a long term fix is better than short term. My pool is 18 x 36 and 6' in the deep end. The pump is a Super Pump along with a sand filter. No heater but I have a Polaris cleaner that needs a new booster pump. Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

[ps558]

I currently have a Hayward Chlorine Feeder inline with my sand filter. It is approximately 5 years old and I have had to replace the top cover gasket a couple of times. The last time was mid 2009 and it started leaking again right before I closed the pool last fall. Has anyone seen this before where a new gasket fails so soon? I can replace it again but if it will continue to occur should I just replace the Hayward Feeder with a new one or should I just replace the cover? Also what about the Nature 2 chemical feeder would it be a smart upgrade or should I just wait and install a salt system? I don't like hassling with the pool once it is open so a long term fix is better than short term. My pool is 18 x 36 and 6' in the deep end. The pump is a Super Pump along with a sand filter. No heater but I have a Polaris cleaner that needs a new booster pump. Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Are you getting the Viton orings blue color, for the Feeder or the old standard black ones. If the lid is not black in color anymore replace the lid. I prefer the frog system feeders or Rainbow feeder from Pentair. Like you said or install a generator system.

[MKuz14]

Hayward chlorinators are known to leak at the lid... I call the them the leaky cups. You could try buying a new lid and that may fix it but for a little under $100 you can get yourself a rainbow chlorinator made by Pentair that will work almost flawlessly. And if you ever need to get parts for the rainbow chlorinator they are relatively inexpensive. I recommend the Rainbow 300 offline chlorinator rather than the Rainbow 320 inline chlorinator. They are easier to service if something happens to go wrong. My opinion on the Nature 2 systems is about the same as with the hayward systems. They both leak sooner than later

[BillinKingstonSprings]

I have the black rubber seal. I looked at the Pentair off line model and it looks like you have to drill a hole in your plumbing and use a hose clamp to install the inlet and outlet connections. Is it a big deal to do this without causing another leak point?

If you go to the salt system is it that much more cost effective than chlorine. My vinyl liner pool has metal walls and I saw where the salt could cause corrosion. How hard it the retro fit to salt and is this something that can be easily accomplished?

[PaulR]

This is the chlorinator that uses tabs? In the long run that can be a problem because the tabs are stabilized chlorine, and while the chlorine gets used up in the pool, the stabilizer does not; eventually your stabilizer level (cyanuric acid, or CYA) gets too high and the chlorine becomes relatively ineffective. If you have a lot of splashout, or you're in an area with lots of rain, that helps because the replacement water will dilute the stabilizer. (Evaporation doesn't count, the stabilizer doesn't evaporate.)

A salt system, once you get it tuned up, is more convenient and less trouble in the long term, I think. Don't know that I'd call it cheaper in dollar terms.

--paulr

[BillinKingstonSprings]

This is the chlorinator that uses tabs? In the long run that can be a problem because the tabs are stabilized chlorine, and while the chlorine gets used up in the pool, the stabilizer does not; eventually your stabilizer level (cyanuric acid, or CYA) gets too high and the chlorine becomes relatively ineffective. If you have a lot of splashout, or you're in an area with lots of rain, that helps because the replacement water will dilute the stabilizer. (Evaporation doesn't count, the stabilizer doesn't evaporate.)

A salt system, once you get it tuned up, is more convenient and less trouble in the long term, I think. Don't know that I'd call it cheaper in dollar terms.

--paulr

Do you know who you can contact over the phone to obtain advice and purchase one online?

[polyvue]

This is the chlorinator that uses tabs? In the long run that can be a problem because the tabs are stabilized chlorine, and while the chlorine gets used up in the pool, the stabilizer does not; eventually your stabilizer level (cyanuric acid, or CYA) gets too high and the chlorine becomes relatively ineffective. If you have a lot of splashout, or you're in an area with lots of rain, that helps because the replacement water will dilute the stabilizer. (Evaporation doesn't count, the stabilizer doesn't evaporate.)

A salt system, once you get it tuned up, is more convenient and less trouble in the long term, I think. Don't know that I'd call it cheaper in dollar terms.

--paulr

Do you know who you can contact over the phone to obtain advice and purchase one online?

Almost everybody sells these things. Assume you don't have an existing controller. If you do, match the SWG brand with it and pocket the difference. You'll find a good selection of various brands/models at these two sites:

http://www.poolcenter.com/poolstor_saltwatergen.html

http://www.firethepoolman.com/cartgenie/prodList.asp?scat=192

Oversize the salt cell in whatever model you choose. If your pool is rectilinear 18x36x5 (~24K gallons?) spend the extra dollars for the 40K cell.

If you purchase the SWG made by Goldline/Hayward and plan to hire an electrician/pool company or install yourself, you'll need the controller, the cell and electrical kit: AQR, T-CELL-15 and E-KIT. All together, the equipment shouldn't cost more than $950-1100. Here's an overview and a few places to buy:

http://www.haywardnet.com/inground/products/chlorinators/Aqua_Rite_Salt_Chlorination.cfm

http://www.poolplaza.com/P-HWD-AQRTCELL15-3540.html

http://www.poolpartsonline.com/p-59794-aqua-rite-electronic-chlorine-generator-2009.aspx

Pentair model is IC-40. Needs controller/power center. Equipment cost: ~$900-1100.

http://www.pentairpool.com/pool-pro/products/sanitizers-intellichlor-salt-chlorinator-75.htm

http://www.polytecpools.com/pentair-intellichlor-chlorine-generator-ic40-cell-to-40000-gallons-p-6553.html

http://www.aquasuperstore.com/products/Pentair-IntelliChlor-Salt-Cell-+-Power-Center-IC40-Complete~4849.html?CAWELAID=327035712

http://www.poolplaza.com/P-PAC-45-0555.html

[txpoolguy]

If you're going thru o-rings rapidly, it's very likely that the o-ring is not at fault, but something is causing the o-ring to fail. It's also possible that you're being sold an o-ring that is not OEM. With the pump turned off, remove the chlorinator cover and look at the top of the chlorinator body - where the o-ring seals against the body. Check for debris, burrs, anything that could damage the o-ring or prevent it from sealing. If there's nothing visible there, remove the o-ring from inside the cover and make the same inspection inside the lid, where the o-ring seats. If again, nothing is visible, try a new cover. The Hayward chlorinators, just like all other inline chlorinators, generally work well for long periods of time, but everything fails eventually. The Rainbow has silly little plastic tubes that fail every 8-10 months - far less reliable. They also have a cover o-ring that will have to be replaced regularly, just like all other brands. Save your dollars by making a good repair, rather than just throwing the whole thing out.