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Using Taylor K-2106 Kit


mzimm

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Just want to clear this up so I'm getting the correct results with my Taylor K-2106 Kit.

When I test the alkalinity I add 2 drops of the R-0007, then 5 drops of the R-0008 and it is green.

Then I add in the R-0009 one drop at a time until it turns red. Here is my issue:

drops 1-5 of the R-0009 it is still green

drop 6 it turns clear

drop 7 it is clear faint looking pink

drop 8 it is a solid looking pink

do I record my reading with drop 7 or 8?

Thanks

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As for counting drops, the rule is to continue adding drops until you see no significant change and then do not count that last drop where there was no change. So it's probably 8 drops in your case since presumably the 9th drop would not have had a change in appearance. Be sure to mix thoroughly after each drop.

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Since you have the K-2106, I'm assuming that you use bromine. A clear or yellow endpoint is usually caused by high bromine (or chlorine) levels. Add an extra drop of R-0007 into the sample before adding the 5 drops of R-0008.

What is your bromine level?

My bromine is currently at 2 ppm

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As for counting drops, the rule is to continue adding drops until you see no significant change and then do not count that last drop where there was no change. So it's probably 8 drops in your case since presumably the 9th drop would not have had a change in appearance. Be sure to mix thoroughly after each drop.

Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for!

I'm currently playing around with the TA trying to get a stable 7.4-7.5 Ph.

Here is what I currently have going on Temp is 102 F, Borates=30, TA=60, CH=180, PH=7.8. Should I try to lower the TA to 50 and hope for a stable ph of 7.5 (according to the pool calculator my CSI would be -.17 at those levels)?

Is there any charts of what the goal for total alkalinity should be based on your calcium hardness and what ph level will be stable? It seems like trial and error to keep lowering the alkalinity to see what the PH stabilizes at.

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You simply adjust your TA until your pH gets stable and you do this first before adjusting CH. There is no hard and fast rule since it depends on the water temperature and amount of aeration in your spa. For most spa users after switching to bleach from an initial Dichlor (week), a TA of 50-70 ppm usually works (some have 40 ppm) and most use 50 ppm Borates for extra stability as well and the target pH is usually more like 7.7 and not trying to get below 7.5. After your TA is adjusted so that your pH is fairly stable, then you adjust the CH so that the saturation index is near zero as per The Pool Calculator.

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That helps. I have been adjusting CH first when refilling. Sounds like I should tackle it last. Here are my numbers after dialing things in after yesterday's refill:

CH 130

TA 70

pH 7.6

Borates 40

CYA ~10

FC 5

CC 0

CSI -.12

Temp 103

I'd have to run the CH up to 190 to zero out the CSI. Worth it?

You simply adjust your TA until your pH gets stable and you do this first before adjusting CH. There is no hard and fast rule since it depends on the water temperature and amount of aeration in your spa. For most spa users after switching to bleach from an initial Dichlor (week), a TA of 50-70 ppm usually works (some have 40 ppm) and most use 50 ppm Borates for extra stability as well and the target pH is usually more like 7.7 and not trying to get below 7.5. After your TA is adjusted so that your pH is fairly stable, then you adjust the CH so that the saturation index is near zero as per The Pool Calculator.
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wow! what a difference this post had made to my water chem.

I'm at ta=70, ph=7.7, ch=180, borates=50, bromine level=2. The ph is now finally stable. I realize that my numbers aren't a completely zero CSI but I'm a bit hesitant to mess with the balance unless its really beneficial to do so.

Thanks for all your help guys!

Mike

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