mzimm Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 Just want to clear this up so I'm getting the correct results with my Taylor K-2106 Kit. When I test the alkalinity I add 2 drops of the R-0007, then 5 drops of the R-0008 and it is green. Then I add in the R-0009 one drop at a time until it turns red. Here is my issue: drops 1-5 of the R-0009 it is still green drop 6 it turns clear drop 7 it is clear faint looking pink drop 8 it is a solid looking pink do I record my reading with drop 7 or 8? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quantumchromodynamics Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 Since you have the K-2106, I'm assuming that you use bromine. A clear or yellow endpoint is usually caused by high bromine (or chlorine) levels. Add an extra drop of R-0007 into the sample before adding the 5 drops of R-0008. What is your bromine level? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chem geek Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 As for counting drops, the rule is to continue adding drops until you see no significant change and then do not count that last drop where there was no change. So it's probably 8 drops in your case since presumably the 9th drop would not have had a change in appearance. Be sure to mix thoroughly after each drop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzimm Posted February 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 Since you have the K-2106, I'm assuming that you use bromine. A clear or yellow endpoint is usually caused by high bromine (or chlorine) levels. Add an extra drop of R-0007 into the sample before adding the 5 drops of R-0008. What is your bromine level? My bromine is currently at 2 ppm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzimm Posted February 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 As for counting drops, the rule is to continue adding drops until you see no significant change and then do not count that last drop where there was no change. So it's probably 8 drops in your case since presumably the 9th drop would not have had a change in appearance. Be sure to mix thoroughly after each drop. Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for! I'm currently playing around with the TA trying to get a stable 7.4-7.5 Ph. Here is what I currently have going on Temp is 102 F, Borates=30, TA=60, CH=180, PH=7.8. Should I try to lower the TA to 50 and hope for a stable ph of 7.5 (according to the pool calculator my CSI would be -.17 at those levels)? Is there any charts of what the goal for total alkalinity should be based on your calcium hardness and what ph level will be stable? It seems like trial and error to keep lowering the alkalinity to see what the PH stabilizes at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chem geek Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 You simply adjust your TA until your pH gets stable and you do this first before adjusting CH. There is no hard and fast rule since it depends on the water temperature and amount of aeration in your spa. For most spa users after switching to bleach from an initial Dichlor (week), a TA of 50-70 ppm usually works (some have 40 ppm) and most use 50 ppm Borates for extra stability as well and the target pH is usually more like 7.7 and not trying to get below 7.5. After your TA is adjusted so that your pH is fairly stable, then you adjust the CH so that the saturation index is near zero as per The Pool Calculator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J24 Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 That helps. I have been adjusting CH first when refilling. Sounds like I should tackle it last. Here are my numbers after dialing things in after yesterday's refill: CH 130 TA 70 pH 7.6 Borates 40 CYA ~10 FC 5 CC 0 CSI -.12 Temp 103 I'd have to run the CH up to 190 to zero out the CSI. Worth it? You simply adjust your TA until your pH gets stable and you do this first before adjusting CH. There is no hard and fast rule since it depends on the water temperature and amount of aeration in your spa. For most spa users after switching to bleach from an initial Dichlor (week), a TA of 50-70 ppm usually works (some have 40 ppm) and most use 50 ppm Borates for extra stability as well and the target pH is usually more like 7.7 and not trying to get below 7.5. After your TA is adjusted so that your pH is fairly stable, then you adjust the CH so that the saturation index is near zero as per The Pool Calculator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzimm Posted February 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 wow! what a difference this post had made to my water chem. I'm at ta=70, ph=7.7, ch=180, borates=50, bromine level=2. The ph is now finally stable. I realize that my numbers aren't a completely zero CSI but I'm a bit hesitant to mess with the balance unless its really beneficial to do so. Thanks for all your help guys! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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