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Salt Water Generator And Cc Question


Fry Man

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I have a Salt water chlorine generator with Ozone and the system is working fine at maintaining a good FC level. I use the Taylor 2006 test kit and my typical test numbers are:

Volume 1131 L

Temp 40 C

PH 7.6

CH 230 ppm

TA 70 ppm

CYA 42 ppm

Borates 50 ppm

Salt 1,813 ppm Measured salt and calculated

SI -0.16 range 0 to -.30 based mainly on ph

FC 4 ppm

CC 2.5 ppm

The ph is stable between 7.4 to 7.8 and generall holds around 7.6. I use Muratic acid or dry acid to adjust PH.The FC varies 4-8 ppm and the CC is constant around 2.0 to 2.5. The water is 2 months old and is clear and does not have any odours. Initially I was not monitoring CC very often but it was always over 1 when Itested. I have shocked to 14 to 18 ppm and did not see the CC go down much. The setting for the SWG is to be on for 8 hrs/day and it will hold the FC in the above range. At 4 hrs/day there is a gradual decrease in FC. My question is for a SWG system will the CC always be higher? When I shock how high should the FC level be. My SWG at max setting can get FC up to 20 ppm. Can I shock by just turning up the SWG or do I have to add Chlorine either Chlorox or MPS? What is the negative impact of the 2 ppm CC?

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It would be very unusual for you to have persistent CCs of 2.0 to 2.5 ppm with the SWG and an FC in the 4 to 8 ppm range. SWGs usually have little or no CCs.

If you are shocking with MPS, that will register as CC, but it is really MPS. You can get MPS interference remover from Taylor K-2042. It is a 2.0 ounce volume (59 ml) for $23.85.

K_2042_500x375.jpg

There is a 0.75 ounce volume (22 ml) K-2041 for $20.31.

The remover is used at 1.0 ml per test. Getting the 59 ml kit will allow 59 tests at 40 cents per test. The 22 ml kit will allow 22 tests at 92 cents per test. The 2.0 ounce volume (59 ml) kit is a much better deal.

If you are not shocking with MPS, the CCs could be coming from a high bather load. You should shock after every use according to the number of person-hours the tub was used.

If you don't have an ozonator, then the rough rule of thumb we've found on this forum to be reasonable accurate in a hot (100-104F) spa is the following dosing per person-hour of soaking: 3-1/2 teaspoons of Dichlor or 5 fluid ounces of 6% bleach or 7 teaspoons of non-chlorine shock (43% MPS). With your ozonator, you would likely use lower amounts assuming you use the tub every day. - chem geek

If you are not shocking with MPS and there is not a very high bather load, then you have some sort of organic contaminant that is persistent and you should do a decontamination procedure including starting with clean filters.

Decontamination

Clean filters 1

Clean filters 2

Nitro's approach to water maintenance

Chlorine demand

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I have a Salt water chlorine generator with Ozone and the system is working fine at maintaining a good FC level.

Fry Man -

I can't answer your question, but I am curious about your SWG system. Is it built into you tub or is it an aftermarket add-on? If it's an aftermarket device, what kind is it, how long have you been using it, and ... lastly ... are you happy with its overall performance.

I am thinking about getting an aftermarket SWG for my Jacuzzi brand tub (275 gallons). There seems to be very little posted on this forum about the aftermarket devices. I'm basically in the dark about these devices as add-ons.

I would appreciate your thoughts on the subject.

Thanks,

- Simon

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I have a Salt water chlorine generator with Ozone and the system is working fine at maintaining a good FC level.

Fry Man -

I can't answer your question, but I am curious about your SWG system. Is it built into you tub or is it an aftermarket add-on? If it's an aftermarket device, what kind is it, how long have you been using it, and ... lastly ... are you happy with its overall performance.

I am thinking about getting an aftermarket SWG for my Jacuzzi brand tub (275 gallons). There seems to be very little posted on this forum about the aftermarket devices. I'm basically in the dark about these devices as add-ons.

I would appreciate your thoughts on the subject.

Thanks,

- Simon

My SWG is an Artic Onzen system Version 7. I have had it for about 4 months and it works very well. Version 7 has lots of capacity and only some acid is required for PH control

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My SWG is an Artic Onzen system Version 7. I have had it for about 4 months and it works very well. Version 7 has lots of capacity and only some acid is required for PH control

Fry Man -

Thanks for the info. Your SWG is built into your spa. Probably, if I had it to do all over again, I would consider getting one. But ... I'm not going to do it all over again, so I'm looking for an aftermarket SWG. They cost about $300 and you just drop them into your tub and they generate chlorine (from the salt water).

The problem I've run into is that there seems to be very few people on this fourm with any actual long term experience with these aftermarket SWGs. I've found a few threads. I've tried a couple of posts asking for information, but I got very little response. On the positive side, I have NOT found any threads that say "I hate this aftermarket gizmo and I'm going back to fresh water and adding chlorine manually!"

Good luck with solving your water problems ...

- Simon

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It would be very unusual for you to have persistent CCs of 2.0 to 2.5 ppm with the SWG and an FC in the 4 to 8 ppm range. SWGs usually have little or no CCs.

If you are shocking with MPS, that will register as CC, but it is really MPS. You can get MPS interference remover from Taylor K-2042. It is a 2.0 ounce volume (59 ml) for $23.85.

K_2042_500x375.jpg

There is a 0.75 ounce volume (22 ml) K-2041 for $20.31.

The remover is used at 1.0 ml per test. Getting the 59 ml kit will allow 59 tests at 40 cents per test. The 22 ml kit will allow 22 tests at 92 cents per test. The 2.0 ounce volume (59 ml) kit is a much better deal.

If you are not shocking with MPS, the CCs could be coming from a high bather load. You should shock after every use according to the number of person-hours the tub was used.

If you don't have an ozonator, then the rough rule of thumb we've found on this forum to be reasonable accurate in a hot (100-104F) spa is the following dosing per person-hour of soaking: 3-1/2 teaspoons of Dichlor or 5 fluid ounces of 6% bleach or 7 teaspoons of non-chlorine shock (43% MPS). With your ozonator, you would likely use lower amounts assuming you use the tub every day. - chem geek

If you are not shocking with MPS and there is not a very high bather load, then you have some sort of organic contaminant that is persistent and you should do a decontamination procedure including starting with clean filters.

Decontamination

Clean filters 1

Clean filters 2

Nitro's approach to water maintenance

Chlorine demand

I have some MPS but have not used any yet for shocking. I hoped to read more information on MPS before using it. Based on other posts I see it is acidic and will lower TA when used. Our bather load is not high just two of us for 1/2 hr /night. The filter is two months old and is an Artic disposable unit. The filter looks very clean with no particles or hair visable on the surface. Tonight the FC is 5 and the CC is 2.5.

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If this is a new tub, that could explain the persistent CCs. New tubs should always be decontaminated before use.

Even if the tub is not new, the persistent CCs indicate some sort of contaminant, such a bacterial biofilm. I recommend that you do a Decontamination procedure.

The tub is new in Nov 2009. I turned the CP up to 6 on the Onzen and this should take FC up to 20. Once it maxes out I will add Chlorox to go over 25 for a break point shock. Is the shock time sensitive and would be more effective if the Clorox was addded all at once?

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