Circulation Pump Problem

[jeffr72]

The last few times I have drained my spa I have had trouble getting either the circulation pump to turn on or the heater to turn on. Through an inconsistent process of resets/poweroff/on's I usually have success not so today.

I have a HS jetsetter wired 220. The jets work and no blinking lights.

Once I have flipped power on the heater begins to get very hot. If I turn on the jets the heater will cool off. However if I turn off the jets the heater will heat back up and the jets will not cool it.

Throughout all this I watch for bubbles to come up through the plate at the bottom of the spa and ... nothing.

When we first filled the tub we only put a hose in the tub. The first drain/fill went fine as well as the 2nd (both times just putting the hose in the spa) The third drain/refill I opened both valves thinking I could drain faster and had the first bad experience after refilling. The problem this time was circulating pump was pushing water through but heater was cold and not heating the water. I had pushed the reset on the heater but not hard enough (it's incredible how hard you need to push). Finally pushed reset hard enough and heat came on.

Since the local dealer told us we should fill through the grey filter pipe we went that route the next drain/refill. Same type problem. Tried the normal routine (failed) but through several resets/jetson/off cut power etc. it finally worked.

No luck today. Any help would be appreciated. Local dealer said best person to help will be in Monday.

jeff

[jeffr72]

Update.

Seems like the root cause of the problem was how the spa was filled.

I drained the tub and refilled with the hose in the filter area (the proper location) and everything worked well when the switch was flipped. Lesson learned.

Must have been a good airlock/block to prevent the circ pump from resetting.

jeff

[Joe K.]

I have been having a very simular problem.

I drained our jetsetter and then filled it through the filter area. And then I turned the breakers back on.

Then that was when the GCFI popped on the sub pannel for the tub. (I have a 220V hardwired to a spa sub pannel electrical box made by Connecticut Electric & Switch MFG. CO.)

I had a simular problem once in the past. What happened before was the heater started warming up and then the Hi Limit Switch did not work, and shut down the spa. This also caused the red light to flash on the control panel. I replaced the Hi Limit switch with a new one, and turned on the spa, held down on the No Fault heater reset, and problem fixed.

Now I'm having all the simptoms of having an air block in the heating system. Like the ones that started this thread.

I've been troubleshooting, and when I start the spa in summer mode, it is fine until I turn the summer mode off. When I turn off the summer mode, or try to turn the breaker on with the summer mode off, the GCFI breaker pops imeadiately. (Last night I left the spa on in summer mode to see if when it came one the problem would somehow dissapear... Didn't work. Just popped the GCFI breaker.) I have also disconnected the Hi Limit switch at the same moment that I turn the summer mode off, so that I can see if the circulation pump is working. It works and the first time that I did this I did hear air escape the plumbing. But this also causes the red light to flash on the control panel. Reconnecting the high limit switch causes no change, but it also does not reset the ready light or stop the red light flashing.

Now this is where I have stropped because I have no idea what to do next.

I appreciate any help that I could get. I'm not in a finacial position to call a service tech, but I'm not prepared to hear my wife threaten my neck if I don't get it fixed!