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Showing results for tags 'dichlor'.
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Hi All, I have a question on using MPS with the bleach/dichlor method. I'd like to use some to assist the dichlor/bleach with oxidization. It sounds like a good idea to keep my chlorine demand low and there doesn't appear to be any significant downsides. My TA is low at 50ppm. My pH is good at 7.6 but I have seen it drift up at times with use so using MPS should also help me keep pH on the lower side if I understand correctly. I've also read that MPS can result in a false high combined chlorine reading. With my K-2006 test kit, I'd need to use the K-2041 to remove this interference. It's $30 for 3/4 of an oz.. How much of this deox reagent in K-2041 do I need to add during a CC test? How long would this K-2041 kit last with daily tests. I'm hoping to hear from people who use (or have decided not to use) MPS with bleach/dichlor and whether using it is worth the cost of dealing with the K-2041. Or if straight bleach is just as effective and easier overall, even if you need to use more. Thanks, Rob
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I have a 400gal hot tub with cover in socal. It runs to maintain 103deg. I have had it for 1 month. I generally have to add pH increaser once every other week. I shock once a week with non-chlorine shock oxidizer but it does not seem to do much to increase free chlorine. I add dichlor every other day, sometimes every day when the spa is often used. The problem is Cyanuric acid increases everytime I add dichlor and I have to replace 50% of water every month when Cyanuric acid is above 100 to keep Cyanuric acid level under 50. What can I do to reduce maintenance time I’ve been spending on my spa? Even if a service comes once a week that is not enough to keep clorine balanced. Any advice would be appreciated. David
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When using sodium dichlor in hot tub, is it okay to use sanitizing wipes with bleach to wipe down the edges of the spa above water?
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Hello - I have a 450gal tub that is 2 months old and I have a constant recurring issue. I filled the tub, added sodium bromide and shocked with MPS...I also have a bromine floater that is in the tub that I have set to "all the way open". I find it impossible to maintain a bromine readout from day to day. If I add dichlor I get a nice readout, but within 18 hours the readout goes to 0. Last night, I shocked w/MPS to try and reactivate the bromine. I will run a test strip tonight to see if there is anything, but the only thing I noticed this morning is that it made my water cloudy... Please help! UPDATE: Last night I was actually able to get a readout of bromine in my spa, which means something is finally working. The next question I have would be how do I maintain this level of bromine? Just keep shocking with MPS weekly, or is something else required more than that?
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posted on the wrong forum - please delete.
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Is there anyone using bulk Chlorinating Granules (Sodium dichlor-s triazinterione 99%) and Oxidizer (chlorine-free oxidizer) (Potassium peroxymonosulfate 42.8% ) chemicals like GLB,Pro Guard ,or in swim ? Every chemical place I call tells me they are not the same as spa chemicals but the chemical percent are the same. I have a Calspa with an acrylic shell.
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About 3 months ago I purchased a Jacuzzi J-345. Usage is light but frequent: I soak for 20 min every evening, and my wife joins me about half the time. Based on that and what I've read in this forum, I decided to switch from the Silk Balance system that came with the spa to dichlor-bleach when I changed the water three weeks ago. After the first week CYA was still undetectable (Taylor K-2006) so I continued to use dichlor. Adding a teaspoon after I soaked alone, and 1.5 teaspoons when my wife joined me kept FC at 3-5 ppm and CC near zero. After a second week of dichlor, CYA had increased to around 33 ppm, so I switched to bleach. After a little experimentation I've found that adding 2 oz after I soak alone and 3 oz after we both soak (6% bleach) keeps FC at 3-5 ppm I check FC, CC and pH at least once a day, and do a complete set of tests every Saturday. Today everything looked great except that CYA was back to under 20 ppm. The test sample was only slightly cloudy, and I could still make out the black dot with the cylinder completely full. I repeated the test to make sure, with the same result. Here are complete readings (Taylor K-2006): pH: 7.6 FC: 3.0 CC: none detected TA: 70 CH: 170 CYA: less than 20 ppm Borate: 50 ppm (test strip) Water temp: 103 F The J-345 holds 340 gal pH has been rock steady at 7.6 the entire 3 weeks. Should I go back to using dichlor for a week to bring CYA back up? Is it normal for CYA to drift like this?